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BG, Im not tryin to be smart or nuttin n a mans free to do what he pleases, BUT what your tying to do makes me nervous and very concerned for you n your familys safety, not to mention NEC and likley most local electrical violations. First of all, being 240 Volts is not the problem, its that I seriously doubt (not knowing all your tools n welders amp requirements) a 30 amp dryer receptacle (my guess what you have) can provide the necessary amps without overoading it and increasing its rating which causes heat (until the thermal portion of a thermal magnetic circuit breaker tripped out) plus a 100 foot run can cause voltage drop unless the conductors are over sized accordingly. If its a 30 amp dryer branch circuit, it should have 10 gauge wire feeding it protected by a 30 amp 2 pole 240 volt circuit breaker inside your main panelboard. Such a branch circuit is not intended to supply any "continuous" loads of more then 24 amps. Sooooo ooo even if there was no dryer attached to it, you shoudnt be using it for continuous loads of the tool sizes youre talking about PLUS for a 100 foot run, the conductors should be oversized to reduce voltage drop. DRYER RECEPTACLE SOUNDS LIKE A BAD IDEA TO ME unless its used for temporary non continuous duty with amp loads much lighter then you mentioned to account for voltage drop. Theres a chance (again not knowing the loads) perhaps like a 50 amp electric range branch circuit has the ampacity to power your tools at 220 volts, but Im NOT suggesting you simply tap off any kitchen 50 amp range circuits either. WHAT YOU NEED is a dedicated circuit ran to a convenient location for your tool use that is served by a circuit breaker inside your main service entrance panelboard PROVIDED it has the space and ampacity to mount a 2 pole 240 volt breaker of sufficient amperage. ALSO If I were gonna run a remote branch circuit for tool or other use, I would suggest it be for BOTH 120 and 240 volts, meaning you would need to use 4 conductor wiring, being: 2 hot phase wires (red n black),,,,, a Neutral (white grounded conductor),,,,,and an equipment grounding conductor (usually green or bare). Such could be UF type cable rated for direct burial or THWN conductors ran inside conduit or even aerial. Then at the remote location you could install a load center or small sub panel to serve the circuits for your tool receptacles. At any such remote sub panel DO NOT BOND THE NEUTRAL TO THE GROUND BUSS, serve and keep them separate n isolated in that small panel. What I envision not knowing your loads would be something like at least a 60 amp sub service fed to the tool location with a 120/240 volt small panel there or even better a 100 amp service. If your house panel is a 200 amp you can likely feed a 100 amp branch circuit from it, but if its only a 100 amp, the max size is more like 50 or 60 amps. If a man just insisted on running a 100 foot extension cord of some sort out of a home range receptacle, I would want like 8 gauge 3 conductor (2 hots and equipment ground) wire and then not load it to much more then 20 amps continuous duty. Remember, a 30 amp branch circuit shouldnt be used for continuois loads of more then 24 amps and that doesnt account for voltage drop problems for high amps over a long distance. You need to calcuate the actual loads the circuit would draw and then we can go back to the drawing board. John T Retired Electrical Engineer
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