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OT Plywood

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BigMac

06-04-2006 06:23:40

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A little off topic, but I am in the process of restoring an aluminum boat and need to replace the floor and some side panels. The original plywood was cut out of 4x10 marine grade sheets and I am having a difficult time in finding a lumber yard that can help me. Any suggestions? (I can use pieces for the floor but the side panels need to be 9"6")Any help will be greatly appreciated.

By the way, I live in Maine

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Mahagony..John,PA

06-04-2006 20:46:58

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Re: OT Plywood in reply to BigMac, 06-04-2006 06:23:40

I made (remanufactured) a pleasure craft a few years ago and used 1/4 in magahony. Actually, I went to an auction and bought the over-stock of flooring from some mansion being build in my area. I simply used my planer to reduce the 3/4 flooring to 1/4 in for the boat. It turned out like dem pictures in the books. BEAUTIFUL. Consider purchasing the toung and groove flooring that you can install yourself at Lowes or Home Depot. Any maghoney, teak, or other exotic flooring should do.

Anyhow, total cost for my materials for a "new" boat was $5.00 for the materials.

Hope this helps, somehow.

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charles(mo)

06-04-2006 15:35:47

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Re: OT Plywood in reply to BigMac, 06-04-2006 06:23:40

If you have a cabinet shop in your area, you could check with them. They would probably be able to get you the plywood you need.

Back in my younger days, I worked at a lumber yard. One of my duties was to go to the city once a week and pick up material. I used to get marine plywood once in a while. We never stocked it, but we could get it. Our local lumber yard can get it, but if you go to home depot or lowes, forget it. You probably couldn't find anyone there that knows what it is.

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Pooh Bear

06-04-2006 11:44:23

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Re: OT Plywood in reply to BigMac, 06-04-2006 06:23:40

Last few times I was in Lowe"s
they had pressure treated plywood.
Would that work?

Pooh Bear

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Bus Driver

06-04-2006 13:48:56

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Re: OT Plywood in reply to Pooh Bear, 06-04-2006 11:44:23

The chemicals used for pressure treating are highly corrosive to aluminum. Marine pywood has glue that is tolerant of long term water immersion.

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Pooh Bear

06-04-2006 18:30:13

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Re: OT Plywood in reply to Bus Driver, 06-04-2006 13:48:56

Is that the old CCA stuff or the new stuff.
Or both?

Only piece of wood on my aluminum jon boat is on the transom.

Pooh Bear

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Bus Driver

06-05-2006 04:39:59

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Re: OT Plywood in reply to Pooh Bear, 06-04-2006 18:30:13

Both are corrosive to aluminum. The new stuff is the most reactive with aluminum.

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MarkB_MI

06-04-2006 09:12:03

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Re: OT Plywood in reply to BigMac, 06-04-2006 06:23:40

I think your main problem is going to be finding 10' long sheets in either marine or exterior grade. You may have to scarf together two sheets to get the length you need. Some marine plywood suppliers will scarf up plywood, or you can do it yourself.

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Stan in Oly, WA

06-04-2006 09:35:54

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Re: OT Plywood in reply to MarkB_MI, 06-04-2006 09:12:03

Hi Mark,

How do you scarf together or scarf up sheets of plywood? I've never heard the term used in relation to wood products or carpentry. Is it an actual technical term, as it is in welding, or just an expression, as it is in eating?

Thanks, Stan

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MarkB_MI

06-04-2006 13:29:39

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Re: OT Plywood in reply to Stan in Oly, WA, 06-04-2006 09:35:54

Hi Stan,

"Scarfing" is a technical term. It's a method of splicing two pieces of lumber or plywood together to make them longer. It's also used for patches.

I'm not sure of the origin of the word, but to "scarf" just means you make a tapered splice so that you retain the strength of the wood. With plywood, the scarf is five or six times as wide as the sheet is thick. I've scarfed plywood with a razor-sharp low angle block plane, but there are also various gadgets made just for this purpose. If you do it right, and use a good glue (like WEST System epoxy), the splice will be just as strong as the rest of the plywood, and there will be only a small telltale splice visible.

If anyone is interested, I can write a post describing the details of the process.

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Ken Crisman

06-04-2006 08:31:13

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Re: OT Plywood in reply to BigMac, 06-04-2006 06:23:40

I know the feeling . Back when we had lumber yards that cared for the customers needs I could have things like that special ordered . But now with these big name companies taking control & pushing the small guy out we can't get squat . They don't even have sheeting grade boards anymore . They sell #2 grade for sheeting . You may have to splice treated plywood & seal it good . Ken

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jdemaris

06-04-2006 07:37:36

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Re: OT Plywood in reply to BigMac, 06-04-2006 06:23:40

I originally had trouble finding marine-grade plywood locally - until I looked at some of the order-books myself. Many of our local building supply places had sources for it - but weren't aware of it since they rarely - or perhaps never got asked before. I needed it to fix a transom and had it in two days once I found it listed in someone's catalog. If you're just fixing floors - you can probably do just as well using pine-fir-birch AC or BC plywood - or just buy some CDX and sand the best side yourself if you don't mind it having knock-pockets and rough spots. I did one boat with pressure-treated CDX made from Southern Yellow Pine. I brought it to a local lumber mill and dried it in their oven. It was pretty crappy looking though, once dry. The term "Marine Grade" is usually based on a British set of requirements that relate to the type of glue used and the amount of voids or knots. There are many different types of Marine Grade - some rot resistant and some not. You can go to a website like Link and read forever on the subject. The last boat I fixed - I had no trouble getting marine-grade plywood, but I had a lot of trouble finding beams. Under the floor the fiberglass shell was reinforced with 1" X 12" beams that were rotted and waterlogged - they ran the entire length of the boat. I don't know what they were originally - but the preferred replacement is white oak. I could not find any locally - not in 1" X 12" by 17 feet long. So, I wound up buying red cedar which might of been a mistake. It splinters and cracks pretty easy. But - it was incredible how heavy the water-logged wood was. Now, the boat is MUCH lighter. I'm not a boat "expert" so using more modern materials was a learning experience for me. My father-in-law is a custom wood boat builder - so I got some good advice from him. I was used to covering boat-wood with fiberglass and resin with hardener, but it seems the more preferred and modern method now is using fiberglass and epoxy. After getting done, I was advised that the epoxy system is not ozone resistant and sunlight can ruin it over time - so it has to be final-coated with spar-varnish. Polyurethane also will not handle sunlight.

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