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Oops! Did the same thing. However, here's a point not mentioned. ANY saw can make a "furniture quality" cut. The question is, are you willing spend the money and time getting the saw to do it? In my opinion, ALL stationary and hand (and some portable) tools are kits, in need of proper tuning and adjustment to make them work properly. I HATED my sears 10" saw till necessity forced my to buy a new arbor, mount balanced pullys, remanufacture the tilting mechanism and align the whole thing up with a dial indicator. And still I have to measure the distance from the blade to the fence (for ripping) at BOTH the front AND back edge of the blade (using the same tooth) EVERY time I move it. Personally, I think the best VALUE in table saws are the common Sears 10" saws available for from free (been given 3 of them over the years) to $100 (and never spend more than that) and then spend another $150 tuning it up. And that's what I'll use until I find the old Delta cabinet saws using one of those ancient old huge 1 1/2 HP induction repulsion motors. The Taunton press (who publishes Fine Woodworking) has some great books on tuning up woodworking machines, Mark Duginski authors some of these. I guess the major difference in these machines is whether or not you need to just adjust the machine (Delta, Powermatic, General), or have a machinist make some part flat, then adjust the machine (Sears, Jet, most eastern imports). As for the benchtops, they usually still need adjusting too. A friend of mine bought one of the Ryobi's years ago. Worked like crap out of the box. We spent two days stuffing shims here, filing bosses there and finally got the thing to work really well. They simply aren't very heavy duty, so, use a REALLY sharp thin kerf blade and don't push too fast. One last note. More teeth DOESN'T mean better cut. Dial the blade up to where about 3 to 4 teeth are in the wood during the cut. If you have to dial the blade up SO far it makes you uncomfortable, use one with less teeth. It all has to do with getting the sawdust out of the kerf before it heats up, burns, warps and draws the temper from your blade, then wobbles and dulls and EVERYTHING goes to crap, including safety, which is probably why the blade was JUST BARELY sticking up above the wood to begin with. Hey Al, did I beat you with lenghty responses?!? Tools
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