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OK the gripe about electricity--my question

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ldj

04-09-2006 16:52:18




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Ok, I know basics about 110/220 wiring, very basic. Here is a question I've often wondered about. In old homes with old wiring there are only 2 wires, black (hot) and white (neutral), no ground. In new construction there is a ground, bare wire also. In the electrical box those white and bare wires all end up the same place. I see all the bare are one place, white another but those places are connected. When a person has the old plugs without ground, why couldn't you get the plug with a ground and run a short bare wire from the ground over to the neutral? They both end up the same place in the box anyway. L.D.

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paul

04-10-2006 20:29:26




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to ldj, 04-09-2006 16:52:18  
The nuetral wire is there to carry electricity back to the earth. It is a needed part of a the circut, to make the electricty flow.

The ground wire is there to protect you & others & be a safety deal, just in case something goes wrong.

Both of them bleed off electricity to the same bonding point at your main disconnect.

However, if you bond them at any other places, then you defeat the purpose of the grounding wire, & potentually electrify every metal bare thing on your place. _not_ a good thing.


For an example, many cities get their water from the river; and they return their sewage water back to the river.

So, will you loop your water pipes together in your house, so the fresh water & sewer pipes are connected at several points, to share waterflow? After all, they start & end at the same basic place..... ..

--->Paul

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KEB

04-10-2006 21:01:57




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to paul, 04-10-2006 20:29:26  
Paul,

Not quite. Power currents are never deliberately allowed to flow into or out of the physical earth. First, earth is too lossy, and second, you'd have a real problem with corrosion.

In a residential installation, the actual return path is via the feeders back to the pole transformer. Your loop analogy is good, when you consider the loop starts at the pole transformer, flows through the wiring into whatever you've got plugged in, and then flows back to the transformer. On the primary side of the transformer, the return path is via the second wire on the pole back to the transformers in the local substation. Similar paths exist all the way back to the generating station.

In the U.S., the power distribution system is referenced to physical earth for two reasons. First, to provide a path for lightning currents, and second, to minimize shock hazards which would exist if the system floated above ground. Our power distribution system would work just fine without ever being connected to earth, but there would be a lot more instances of people getting zapped.

As point of interest, you're doing really well to get the resistance between a single ground rod & the physical earth down to 10 ohms, & then only under ideal soil conditions. I know this because I've measured a number of them installing large communications systems. 10 ohms is fine for establishing a discharge path for lightning, and does provide some modicum of a voltage reference for safety purposes as long as there isn't any significant current flowing through this resistance. This resistance is also why multiple grounds at a single location must all be connected together to minimize voltage differentials in the event of a high-current fault.

One other thing to keep in mind, circuit breakers are intended only for fire protection. They don't respond fast enough or at low enough currents to protect against shocks.

Keith

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Dan hill

04-17-2006 04:13:17




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to KEB, 04-10-2006 21:01:57  
I did appliance service for many years.A common trouble was water heater elements that open and energize the water it self.Most of them did not have the nuetral connected to the tank.Plastic plumbing causes a lot of problems.Cases where cows refused to drink were traced to water heater elements.Shocks from single faucets are common.The worst case I saw was in an old house that had a cast iron sewer line.A small girl hollered when her mother turned the shower on.mom had checked the water temp, tried it a second time. She got a shock.A bad water heater element was replaced right after that happened.I looked at the old element, it had a hole in it.Looked at the water pump and saw that it was fed by plastic pipe .This left most of the water system ungrounded.I told the home owner to get a ground rod driven and call an electrician.Electricians can make mistakes.The minister of a church next to me came to see me on a sunday morning.A new main service had just been installed along with a new meter box.He said that he turned on the lights on one side they looked normal.When he turned on the other side both sides dimmed.I had him repeat it and thats what happenened.I tripped the main breakers. Went outside and tried my neon test light on the meter box and it was hot.My voltmeter showed 120 vac from the box to the new ground rod.I told the minister to get the electrician that did the job here now.

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NEsota

04-10-2006 18:20:41




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to ldj, 04-09-2006 16:52:18  
Maybe the light in the lightning is following the holes.



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Kevin Bismark

04-10-2006 17:33:24




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to ldj, 04-09-2006 16:52:18  
Well, the real reason we don"t "bond" the neutral and ground on things on the load side of the service is, that if that "neutral" wire you have tied to the ground terminal on a recptical ever looses it"s connection on the way back to the panel, and you have a load plugged in, a light, you now have 120 volts on the metal parts that you think are tied to ground, like the older electric stoves had just 3 wires going to them, and they would loose the neutral and someone would get bit when they touched the water faucet and the stove, the older stoves used the neutral to "ground" the frame of the stove, so if you loose it on the way back to the panel or in the panel you now have 120 volts on the frame of the stove. So the short answer is don"t do it, you just might kill someone, I could type for hours about some of the stuff I run across on the job every day, usually when you get to 480 volts and over people don"t want to mess with it, but years ago I ran into a 100 HP water pump that had been hooked up with 3 number 12 THHN wires taped together to make it run after the high voltage feeder had been damaged, the number 12 THHN is only rated for 600 volts and the pump was 4,160 volts to this day I don"t know why that didn"t blow up..
Kevin

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KEB

04-10-2006 09:22:19




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to ldj, 04-09-2006 16:52:18  
Boy, this subject seems to come up about once a week.

The reason for having a separate "grounding" conductor is to provide a path for fault currents which do not flow back through the neutral (the "grounded" conductor. For example, lets say the transformer in a microwave overheats & develops a short between the primary winding & the transformer core. The core is then connected to the microwave chassis.

This particular fault will not blow the breaker, because the unit isn"t drawing any more current than normal, however, the cabinet is at some voltage above ground because of the connection between the transformer primary and the case. Now, if I happen to touch the microwavce case & something grounded, such as a faucet, I get zapped. A fatal shock requires much less current than that required to trip a breaker.

In this case, the third wire ground would provide protection against a shock hazard by keeping the microwave case at ground protential and, depending on how far up the winding the fault occurred, possibly drawing enough current to trip the breaker.

Ground fault interrupters provide another layer of protection against this type of fault, where there are paths for fatal currents that do not trip a breaker. The GFI works by monitoring the monitoring the current in the hot & neutral leads & tripping if there"s ever a difference. Such a difference indicates that there is a fault path somewhere.

Neutral and ground are connected together at ONE point ONLY, usually in the breaker panel. If you connect neutral and ground together at more than one point, then there will be currents flowing in the safety ground wire all the time, and it will no longer provide the fault protection path.

Electrical codes are there for a reason. The codes are based on good engineering practices and have been reviewied by numerous professionals, and represent a good compromise between safety and cost. The fact that you don"t understand the rationale behind the code doesn"t mean the code is invalid...

Be safe!!

Keith

PS - I"m an electrical engineer, and once had a position that required me to design power distribution system for large communications facility installations, so I do know of whence I speak.

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ldj

04-10-2006 11:43:47




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to KEB, 04-10-2006 09:22:19  
Thanks everyone. Most of you misunderstood what I was asking. I was asking why and not doubting there was a valid reason. I was curious what that valid reason was.I do understand now
Thanks a lot.
L.D.



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KEB

04-10-2006 20:46:03




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to ldj, 04-10-2006 11:43:47  
LD,

Reading this again, I realized you might think the "because you don't understand it" was directed at you. Not so. Just seems like every time this comes up, there's a bunch of people jump in with "I do it this way because...", most of which is wrong.

Sorry for the confusion.

Keith



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John in B-ton

04-10-2006 08:54:57




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to ldj, 04-09-2006 16:52:18  

Just another reminder while this is being discussed. in a lot of code jurisdictions it is permitted to replace plumbing lines with plastic pipe, and most new water service pipes and gas lines are plastic, so bonding to gas and water lines does not always provide adequate ground.

if there is a short and the water lines or gas lines do not provide adequate ground, the path of least resistance is through whoever is touching the conductor. always install a ground rod.

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fepo

04-10-2006 08:07:43




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to ldj, 04-09-2006 16:52:18  
My house built in 1960 has the neutral connected to a terminal block in the main junction, with a ground wire also connected to this terminal and run over to the Copper water main where it comes into the house. So Neutral and Ground are tied together, and ground is connected to a 'grounded' rode.

The way I see it, there is no real Neutral in this type of setup, only line and 'ground'. It works ok, but is not at todays spec, where the ground is a real ground to pick up any 'stray' voltages/amps and send them to a safer place.

I have put in new style plugs throughout, and just did not use the ground on the plug, and if I did run a new wire I connected the ground on the plug end but did not connect at the panel end (it will make life easier when the line entrance to the house is upgraded to new type, if ever...).

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buickanddeere

04-12-2006 05:30:47




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 Drop those tools and back away now.... OK the grip in reply to fepo, 04-10-2006 08:07:43  
Don't install ordinary three prong receptacles on a two wire system unless they are GFI. "So Neutral and Ground are tied together, and ground is connected to a 'grounded' rode.

The way I see it, there is no real Neutral in this type of setup, only line and 'ground'. It works ok, but is not at todays spec, where the ground is a real ground to pick up any 'stray' voltages/amps and send them to a safer place."

You have a neutral which is held to ground/earth potential. Not line and ground wires.

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RandyBee

04-10-2006 06:55:16




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to ldj, 04-09-2006 16:52:18  
What ever you do - do not tie neutral and ground together at any receptacle end - click site below for some of the reasons.



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buickanddeere

04-10-2006 03:49:25




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to ldj, 04-09-2006 16:52:18  
The ground wire does not make a machine "double safe". The neutral although held to near earth potential. Is every bit as much an energized and current carrying conductor as the black/red/line. In a 120V motor the neutral makes no connection to the motor case, chassis. Only to the insulated motor windings. Anyone trying to swap grounds and neutrals as "the same" are looking for trouble to themselves or the poor smuck that comes along later. Probably the most dangerous equipment to work on is something 120V that some tinkerer has hooked up.

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Mark - IN.

04-10-2006 16:22:56




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to buickanddeere, 04-10-2006 03:49:25  
Wanna have some real fun? Apply the pricipals of electricity to lightning (voltage is constant, current flows from negative to positive), and explain to everyone that even though appears to my eyeballs that lightning strikes the ground from the sky (sometimes cloud to cloud, airplane, etc), lightning really goes from the ground towards the sky (sometimes cloud to...).

Of course, my eyeballs could be right, but then that'd make the ground more positive than the clouds. Chuckle.

Mark

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buickanddeere

04-10-2006 17:14:21




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to Mark - IN., 04-10-2006 16:22:56  
You don't usually see the leader of the initial lightening stroke, just the main blast.



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Mark - IN.

04-10-2006 18:21:19




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to buickanddeere, 04-10-2006 17:14:21  
So, I don't need glasses after all? Just joking.

I've heard folks that have been struck by lightning say that they started tingling before it happened. Yep, that would be a flow of current moving from the ground on its way up to the sky on its way to turn them into a human lightbulb in a very bad way.

Mark



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Oliver power

04-09-2006 18:21:00




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to ldj, 04-09-2006 16:52:18  
I agree with what Bob says in the lower post. And to add to what Bob says , the white and black alternate current for the running of an electric motor. The ground is actually for extra protection in case the motor shorts out to the metal casing of the tool etc. , which the motor is in. In other words , take an older electric power tool. They were metal , with three prong cords(one was ground). Nowadays , the average power tool is plastic , with two prong cords. No need for grounding plastic , as it is not a conductor of electric. And to add to all this , most of the older 2 prong receptacles were installed into metal boxes. Metal jacketed wire(can"t think of name)connected metal receptacle box to panel box. That is what the little wire on a three prong adaptor is for. You put the adaptor on the three prong tool , plug it into a two prong receptacle , and fasten the little wire to the screw holding the receptacle plate on. Then , should you have a short , the electric is supposed to follow the metal jacketing back to the panel box.

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Coloken

04-09-2006 17:23:41




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to ldj, 04-09-2006 16:52:18  
Since I grew up befor this requirement, it sounds kind of foolish to me too. The way I understand it is that the "ground" wire is not supposed to carry any current. The "neutral" wire carries the current. This leves two wires running side by side connected to each other. Local inspector and electrian went round and round on where the ground rod goes. Out at the meter, or next to the house. Ground rod at house- no good, had to be tied to 10 foot of copper water line. All I can say is I guess they know what they are doing.

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Bob

04-09-2006 17:18:42




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to ldj, 04-09-2006 16:52:18  
The separate ground, all the way back to the ground terminal bar in the main breaker panel provides an extra layer of safety.

If the neutral and ground were jumpered togther at an outlet, as you suggest, and the neutral failed, any exposed metal on whatever was plugged into the outlet would then be at 120 Volt potential, and likely KILL someone.



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Jon Hagen

04-09-2006 20:50:03




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to Bob, 04-09-2006 17:18:42  
You are much safer to NOT connect the ground to the neutral. With the ground not connected to neutral,and the neutral goes open connection,then the only thing that happens is the appliance quits working. If the neutral is connected to the ground and the neutral goes open,then the neutral return path backfeeds through the appliance ground wire making the entire appliance case 120 volt hot. A killer as Bob says. In many/most cases it is legal and safe to connect a gfci to an old ungrounded line as long as the gfci is labeled as having no ground.
A few years ago a buddy called me one evening to see If I could help with an odd electrical problem. He had installed a new washing machine in the laundry room and was stumped as to why it would blow the fuse the instant he plugged the 3 wire grounded plug into the socket. I told him to grab his multimeter and check voltage at the socket. The wide neutral blade read 0 volts to a water pipe ground as it should,and the narrow blade read 120v to ground or the neutral as it should,but the ground pin read a full 120 volts !!!. I told him to pull the socket out of it's box to see what was going on. It had an ungrounded 2 wire line coming into the box and correctly connected(white to neutral,black to hot) to the grounded type 3 pin socket. someone,sometime had installed a vent fan that was connected with a 3 wire line to the 3 pin grounded type socket.They tried to bootleg a ground to the three pin socket by connecting the ground wire to the neutral wire at the fan,but had a brain fa*t and connected the ground to the black "hot" lead at the fan,making the ground pin 120V and 20 amps "hot". The only thing that saved these folks from being killed with this setup was that the guy took the unusual step of plumbing the wash machine with metal pipes instead of the more usual rubber hoses,so it was grounded by the plumbing. Had the wash machine been plumbed with rubber hoses and one of the family touched the wash machine cabinet and the metal laundry sink that was inches away,almost certainly one of them would be dead from this bootleg ground short cut.

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Dan hill

04-15-2006 01:50:38




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to Jon Hagen, 04-09-2006 20:50:03  
Washing machines can move around a lot during spin cycles.That why hoses are used.



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Areo

04-09-2006 18:21:35




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 Re: OK the gripe about electricity--my question in reply to Bob, 04-09-2006 17:18:42  
Crazy part of this is when they first started this the ground wire was much lighter gauge than the black and white. I never understood the thinking of that. This was going on about 1960. (This is what I have in my house which was built in 1960).

Areo



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