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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Cables for welder

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Stan in Oly, WA

04-06-2006 10:56:44




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Last month I bought a 1967 Lincoln 180 amp tombstone welder on eBay for $40 and a short drive to pick it up. It has the best arc of any welder I've ever used (not too many) even though Lincoln tech support told me that none of that style of welder was ever made with copper windings in the transformer. It's the quietest welder I've ever used too, partly because, oops, no fan. I'll add one if I have to, but this thing has obviously seen heavy use the way it is.

Here's the problem. There is about 50' of work cable coming out of the welder, but it's not nice. The electrode holder and the ground clamp are supplied by 2 cables (each) that appear to be about #1. These are out in the open for about 20'. Then, moving toward the welder, there is about 30' where all 4 are enclosed as a single cable in rubber sheathing that is in very bad condition---brittle and cracking. About 2" from the face of the welder the 4 #1 cables emerge from the rubber sheathing and 2 go into each hole into the welder.

None of this makes much difference except that it looks terrible and it's awkward to move. I know how to put twist connectors on a single cable, but I don't think they come big enough to run two cables into one end. I could join each pair of #1 cables to a larger single cable and run that into the twist connector, but the connection of two cables to one cable would be a big, unsightly mess. What I don't know about is the types of connectors available to do a job like this with a neat, professional appearance. Or how to deal with the 30' of ugly, cracking sheathing.

Thanks in advance for any ideas,

Stan

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T_Bone

04-08-2006 08:19:06




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 Re: Cables for welder in reply to Stan in Oly, WA, 04-06-2006 10:56:44  
Hi Stan,

I have a 1955 Lincoln tombstone that my Dad bought new with all Cu and no fan. It also has a x-former thermal potector that takes about 1hr to reset once you exceed the duty cycle. Ask me how I know...LOL

I bought Tweco twist lock connectors and left about 12" of cable out of the machine (both sides) as I like using 150a cable (#2), about $1/ft new, then add aditional cable to my work. This works well to about 75ft lead length for the buzzer and 150a cable. If you need a longer run then buy #1 or #0 from the machine then #2 to the electrode and ground clamp, again all Tweco twist locks so all cables can innerchange easy.

I've been on hundreds of service calls where some Tech tried to shove two wires into a single clamp type connector. They all will work loose over time and cause high resistance.

The only way you can achive a two cable termination into a single clamp is too twist the ends together then solder 100%. This works well and will not work loose, "if" your connector is larger enough.

NEC says too use a short pig tail tieing the two leading together then a single lead is used too the clamp connector. This works the best as it's just like a single connector.

T_Bone

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msb

04-06-2006 17:14:49




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 Re: Cables for welder in reply to Stan in Oly, WA, 04-06-2006 10:56:44  
Some electrical supply houses carry welding cable.Try there if one is near you.



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oldfarmtractor

04-06-2006 13:14:21




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 Re: Cables for welder in reply to Stan in Oly, WA, 04-06-2006 10:56:44  
Sometimes one needs to bite the bullet and pick up new cables. One nice thing is that the copper in the old cables can help pay for the new cables.



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