|
Hi T-Bone, Your questions open up a lot of possibilities, kind of like someone asking you "what do I need to weld". It sounds like you have a handle on the prep work, so we'll go from there. Paint Guns:
Sharpe, Binks, and DeVilbiss are all good guns from companies that have been around for a long time. I would not spend the extra money in a HVLP gun unless you have a specific reason for wanting one. Even in the hands of an expert a cheap gun is just that. You will only have one gun so don't get a cheap one, and avoid the so called "primer guns". It's been over five years since I've bought a paint gun so I'm not up on the current models. But just like welders, the best, second best, and maybe third best guns are all going to capable of doing an excellent job. Air Filter:
So, long as your lines are clean a filter is not really necessary. It is however, very important to have NO water in the air when painting. A filter/separator located at the end of the air hose will not compensate for the need to keep the air system dry. That being the case, don't spend a lot of money for some "magic" water trap. Paint:
PPG and Dupont are the two major suppliers. Both have good products, and I would recommend either one. You'll have to go to an automotive or industrial paint supplier to buy their paint. If you know someone in the auto body business they may be willing to pass along their discount to you. Polyurethane paint is the most durable paint that is generally available. However, it is hazardous to work with, and is so glossy it will make your tractors castings look like they were cast with gravel rather than sand. Alkyd enamels are still available, and would have been the type of paint originally used on your tractor, but I would opt for a good grade of the more durable acrylic enamels. On your truck you might consider a base-coat/clear coat type of paint. They are pretty forgiving and dry quickly. The fast dry is a major plus when you don't have a spray booth. Primer:
This one is easy. Use epoxy primer. It is unquestionably the best, and I wouldn't use anything else. It completely seals whatever it goes over, requires no sealer or secondary priming, provides outstanding adhesion, and is so durable it could be used as a top finish. I have used hundreds of gallons of the PPG "DP" series primer, and about 50 gallons of the Dupont variprime. Variprime contains phosphoric acid and is a so called "self etching" primer. Unfortunately people often assume that this primer can compensate for inadequate surface preparation and cleanliness. For most things I like the DP primer the best. It is heavier bodied, is incredibly forgiving, and is slightly less hazardous to use than the acid bearing Variprime. If the finish paint is applied within 24 hours or so, no sanding is required. That is how to do the tractor castings. On sheet metal parts, and on your truck, apply one light coat, let it tack up, then follow up with two more medium heavy coats, letting each one tack up well in between. Let it cure for at least a few days, longer if possible, then lightly wet sand with 240 to 320 wet-or-dry, and finish up with 400grit. These epoxy primers are not good for you. Don't breath it, don't get much of it on you, and don't do it inside without a paint booth. Use the best breathing protection you can find, a supplied air respirator is recommended. By the way, don't forget about this stuff and let it cure in your paint gun. It's bad enough cleaning out the mess, but the harassment from your friends and/or associates makes it even worse. These primers and paints contain solvents and chemicals that are absorbed through the skin. Anytime you paint wear N-Dex(best) or latex gloves to protect your hands. Well, do I get some kind of award for posting the longest answer of all time on this forum?...Al English
|
