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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

what welding rod

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dcop

03-29-2006 16:57:29




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Well as long as we are talking about welding I had a question. What welding rod works best vertical welds. I do ok with 6011 and 6013 but they are not pretty. I was doing some vertical welds today along with overhead. I will need to grind most of them to make it look good. Thanks for any help.




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T_Bone

03-31-2006 04:07:56




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 Re: what welding rod in reply to dcop, 03-29-2006 16:57:29  
Hi Dcop,

6010 and 6011 will be the easiest rods to learn vertical welding as there a fast freeze electrode thus less chance of weldor error.

The more difficult electrodes for vertical welding produce a heavy slag, ie; 6013, 7014, 7018.

Vertical up welding is fairly easy to do once you get the hang of it. Electrode angle pays a very important roll, about 5º to 10º down from horizontal, 0º works best sometimes, and you need your head below the rod to see the weld puddle with a close arc length and a slightly faster travel speed.

Vertical down welds are allowed by AWS code and are limited to 2" in length on fillet welds but most welds fail when ran verticle down as it's very easy to trap slag with in the molten puddle. I only recomend very experienced welders use vertical down. Learn verticle up first!

Now most welders watch the "slag" in the molten puddle and not the molten puddle it's self and that causes the molten puddle to fall or the weld puddle will slump before the welder moves the rod upward. Thats why we teach you to weld flat first so you can reconize the weld puddle from the slag. If you can see the difference in the weld puddle and the slag, then do not let the slag take your attenion away from the motlen puddle in the vertical position like it does to most weldors.

A vertical weave bead is made by starting a weld puddle then moving horzontial, 8 rod diameters max, then pause slightly to deposit more weld, move up 1/2 rod diameter, then back to the starting point. The horizontal move should be fairly fast so if the weld slumps in the center then your moving too slow. If the ends are under cut then your not pausing long enough at the corners. Take a stratch awl making two vertical lines will help you keep the weld straight and uniform width.

The 8 times the rod diameter maximum is so the slag does not cool before you return to deposit more metal thus intraping slag with-in the molten puddle.

Use your arc length and travel speed to adjust for different welding positions. There is no need to adjust amps from flat welding to overhead welding to verticle welding. This is very important too learn for when welding in a 6G position. A 6G position is a pipe fixed at 45º.

T_Bone

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Ken in Mich

03-30-2006 05:35:57




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 Re: what welding rod in reply to dcop, 03-29-2006 16:57:29  
I'm a retired contract certified welder. You didnt say what machine your running, is it DC or a buzbox. If the material is old and rusty, its hard to beat a 60 series rod, of course clean it up the best you can. It does take a little more practice to make it look good.
If you have a DC machine, and good clean metal, than the 7018 would be my choice. They do make an AC 7018 type of rod, not sure what the number is, a welding supply house could help you out there.
The rods run totaly different, the 70 series needs lots more amps for the same diemeter. For example, the 1/8 6010 would run at around 80A and the 1/8 7018 would run about 120A, these are aproxmiate amperages, all machines are different.
The 6010 you use a whipping motion, come down into the puddle and back up and out so it freezes, this is like one motion. With 7018, you stay in the puddle and move slightly side to side. With both rods the heat has to be just right to make it look good.
As someone else said, just because it doesnt look good, doesnt make it a bad weld. I have seen some ugly welds pass the X-ray, and some down right beutiful welds not pass. It is a mater of pride to make a nice looking weld. Everyones weld looks a little different. The large industial machines I ran were DC only, you just didnt see AC machines except for the Cybertigs in nuke plants for aluminum.

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Gary in Minn.

03-29-2006 18:17:35




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 Re: what welding rod in reply to dcop, 03-29-2006 16:57:29  
been in the welding game for 40 years--7018 will give you fits and burns unless you have DC reverse polarity. Can't beat 6011 and a lot of practice.A strong weld beats a good looking one any day.



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Tim Casbolt

03-29-2006 17:31:22




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 Re: what welding rod in reply to dcop, 03-29-2006 16:57:29  
Yea, 7018's the way to go for vertical, but it takes a little practice to lay it down nice. The right heat's a little more important, too.



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old

03-29-2006 17:22:23




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 Re: what welding rod in reply to dcop, 03-29-2006 16:57:29  
My self I never use 6011 or the 6013. I do use a lot of 7014 and 7018. I can weld any position with either one but I did weld for a liveing years ago. I prefer the 70s type because its stronnger then the 60s stuff.



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dr.sportster

03-29-2006 17:08:06




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 Re: what welding rod in reply to dcop, 03-29-2006 16:57:29  
I will email you a copy of the chart tomorow.[Which means my wife will because Im computer illiterate].



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dr.sportster

03-29-2006 17:02:44




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 Re: what welding rod in reply to dcop, 03-29-2006 16:57:29  
The third digit being 1 means the rod is suitable for all positions.Funny I just made a copy of this for an apprentice millwright at work.



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