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More welding and rod questions

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Wade

02-28-2001 20:50:01




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I'm going to weld the grader blade tomorrow. The edge is hardened steel and broken vertically through a bolt hole. The wide part of the blade (the part the hard edge bolts to) is thinner, flexible steel. It is cracked at the top and bottom where it bent after the break. I was able to nearly straighten that part. I was planning on using 7018AC. T_Bone said preheat to 1100 degrees. What color is that? Should I treat the thinner part differently?

And somebody gave me some 6013LV rods, what are they good for?

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Steve U.S. Alloys

03-01-2001 06:07:50




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 Re: more welding and rod questions in reply to Wade, 02-28-2001 20:50:01  
Wade, 1100�F produces a dull red color in carbon steel. At 1200�F steel becomes non-magnetic. That's a good guide to heating in that range.

You need to consider preheat and interpass temps with the high carbon steels. I would keep them in the range of 400�F. You most likely do not have the facilities to anneal-weld-stress relieve etc. Also, be aware of the difference in the carbon content of the steel blade vs. the carbon content of the filler metal and the effects that will have on the overall outcome. (You are going to change the mechanical properties of the blade.)

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BFO

03-01-2001 03:57:03




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 Re: more welding and rod questions in reply to Wade, 02-28-2001 20:50:01  
Hey Wade, if the blade broke verticley, then it's always going to be a weak area, even after welding. In the past, after welding, I've taken some 1/4" flat bar, tack at the top and form to the shape of the blade, and weld on as reinforcement. Stitch it to keep the distortion to a minimum, and 7018AC would work just fine if that's all you have. If you're not sure about temps/colour, then you can always buy a heat stick at your local welding supply. HTH

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T_Bone

02-28-2001 21:14:09




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 Re: more welding and rod questions in reply to Wade, 02-28-2001 20:50:01  
Hi Wade, I haven't found a AC 7018 that was worth a damn. If you have please let me know what brand. 6013 is great for AC using a hot close arc. 1100 is light blue to white. It's more for burning off any oils and stress relieving. Hold most of the heat on the thicker of the two letting the weld puddle over flow to the thinner metal.

Have fun!

T_Bone



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Wade

02-28-2001 21:29:05




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 Re: Re: more welding and rod questions in reply to T_Bone, 02-28-2001 21:14:09  
Hey T, I don't think you've got the picture.

There is no thinner metal. I'm going to weld the cracks in the thin metal, weld the thick metal together where it broke, then bolt the thick metal to the thin metal.

The blade was broken vertically when the end struck a immovable rock. The hardened edge broke because it isn't flexible and then the rest of the blade bent becase it is softer.

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T_Bone

02-28-2001 21:56:32




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 Re: Re: Re: more welding and rod questions in reply to Wade, 02-28-2001 21:29:05  
Hi Wade, You have too draw me picture to get the point. hehehe Been up for a couple days so I miss alot :) Them rocks don't move too easy. My front loader has a few cracks that are in need.

Nothing special just stick it to it :) LOL

You didn't say what brand of LH you had?

T_Bone



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