Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Discussion Forum

Welding, stitching, plugging cracked block

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
rod

02-24-2001 12:44:37




Report to Moderator

Since you guys are the experts here is my problem I have a David Brown 990 diesel that has a broken or cracked block it has been previously welded by former owner but is still leaking the patch is 7 or 8 beads of weld about 10 inches long. Should I just try a sealing compound in the rad, JB Weld, a bolted on patch, or grind out the weld that is there (not sure what is under it) In doing some research I found a rod called a 770 from this site www.muggyweld.com it seems to be able to safely weld cast, also looked at a site on stitching would really appreciate advice, opinions and experiences on this.

regards
rod

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
rod

02-25-2001 14:34:01




Report to Moderator
 Re: welding, stitching, plugging cracked block in reply to rod, 02-24-2001 12:44:37  
Thanks guys I have done some internet research and am going to try the CRC Copper Weld sealant suppose to be liquid glass and copper. If that does not work think I will put a bolt on patch plate on it. The Muggy Weld guy guy wants 96.00 plus shipping for a pound of his 770 rod for cast welding

regards
rod>Link
http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/DBtractors>Link

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Fred OH

02-26-2001 04:20:55




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: welding, stitching, plugging cracked block in reply to rod, 02-25-2001 14:34:01  
Rod, stay out of those dark internet alleys or you'll get mugged. I always try the sealant first too. L8R----Fred OH



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Jim S.

04-09-2002 20:20:02




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: welding, stitching, plugging cracked block in reply to Fred OH, 02-26-2001 04:20:55  
Block repair with the arc welder will almost always require a sealant due to the checking of he CI. I never use the expensive rods or even nickel anymore. CI can be successfully welded with steel electrodes or with the wire welder. The key is to keep it cool--able to put your hand on it at all times--peen the hot weld to releive the stress. Nickel has its place if you must drill, tap, or machine.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Steve U.S. Alloys

02-25-2001 07:45:07




Report to Moderator
 Re: welding, stitching, plugging cracked block in reply to rod, 02-24-2001 12:44:37  
There are also many discussions in the 'Tool Talk' archives. Search under tool talk and use 'cast iron welding' as keywords.

I know some people who repair heads and blocks professionally and some who used to. Those inserts are a product designed by an old german gentleman. (I'm somewhat partial to that because I originate from old german peasant stock.) They work quite well. I'd be happy to provide you with information as to where to send the block or put you in touch with someone who knows where to get those inserts. I never paid any attention because when I was there it was to deal with spraying block decks or some welding application. What was odd to me was the fact that since all these folks did all day was repair cast iron heads and blocks, people naturally thought it must be a good place to take all things cast iron. These guys where familiar with what they did for a living but if something besides a head or block showed up they would call me. It scared 'em to death. (Fred OH can relate to this. When you own a job shop you become very versatile. Seperates the men from the boys real quick.)

If you haven't had experience welding cast iron, I don't recommend you start on that block. W/o going into lots of detail, there is no cast iron electrode that works magic. While some are much better than others, certain attention must be paid to procedure. The rules of physics cannot be broken, only bent slightly or manipulated.

Now T-bone and I are friends for life because he said good things about my #2200. But, if I was going to recommend an electrode to someone for welding cast iron only, the #2200 would not be my first choice. I would choose it for someone who only repaired cast iron on occasion. Where that alloy shines is in mulitple applications where you stock one alloy to cover a multitude of infrequent applications. The other usages would be for repairing something you keep welding on with no luck or for high strength welds on materials of unkown or dissimilar make-up.

If you don't want to worry about fixing the problem right now and a patch will be sufficient, I can recommend a sealer pencil we use to stop pinhole leaks in welds on cast iron or other materials. You only need to preheat locally to 250�F and apply.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
T_Bone

02-25-2001 06:49:46




Report to Moderator
 Re: welding, stitching, plugging cracked block in reply to rod, 02-24-2001 12:44:37  
Hi Rod, Well that was a inlighting reading on the 8n "attempted" repair of peening. Peening is not an adaquote repair as it still leaves behind the orignal problem, the crack, as well as JB Weld or anyother type of sealer or sealing method. It just a method of sealing and not a repair of the base metal. Welding is the only true method of repair of a crack in metal including cast iron.

A search of the archives on this tool board will yield the most recent discussions on welding cast iron and the proper methods of doing such.

Most weld failures will be linked to:
(1) Improper joint prep, ie: surface cleaning, v-notch the crack, failure to drill a hole at the end of a crack in a high stress area.

(2) Improper stress relieving by pre/post heating

(3) Wrong filler rod/electrode selection for the base metal to be welded

(4) Ability of the welder.

I personally use only top brand name filler rods/electrodes until I prove a new brand/rod for the application. That doesn't mean other electrode mfg's products are bad or more suitable for a pictular weld repair, it just means that once I find a filler rod/electrode for a weld repair I use that until it doesn't work for the application.

One new electrode I would like to try is from US Alloys, rod #2200. We've need an electrode like that for years!

Below is a link to the search I did of this forum on welding cast iron. See if this helps.

T_Bone

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
T_Bone

02-25-2001 11:34:57




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: welding, stitching, plugging cracked block in reply to T_Bone, 02-25-2001 06:49:46  
Hi All, One point I would like to bring up here, is, I'm not affiliated with any firm. I'm retired and have been for the past 7yrs!

T_Bone



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Al English

02-24-2001 19:18:49




Report to Moderator
 Re: welding, stitching, plugging cracked block in reply to rod, 02-24-2001 12:44:37  
Hi rod, The archives of the "N" board on this same site have a lot of information on this subject. Here is a link to a recent exchange that pretty well covers everything you asked about and more. Good luck...Al English



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
J Kinsey

02-24-2001 18:56:08




Report to Moderator
 Re: welding, stitching, plugging cracked block in reply to rod, 02-24-2001 12:44:37  
I've fixed several with JB weld. Should not be in a high stress area. I have found that if you sandblast the area that must be repaired first then warn it up (I use a hair dryer) then wipe off with lacquer thinner to remove any oily deposits it holds very good. If you don't sandblast the area, it won't hold as good.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy