Insulating Shop

I have a couple questions:

1) With the foil backed insulation-how do you usually attach it? Just nail to cross members? If so then how do you attach the inside steel?

I was thinking maybe of getting 1" insulation and then gluing it somehow to the wall-then use the still exposed 2x4 cross members to nail the steel to. Any problems with this? Better approaches?

2) What is the best way to cut the tin and keep it looking neat?

For insulating a metal building, assuming it doesn't have a house wrap (like Tyvek) the only way to really insulate is having a professional spray it on the tin. I had this done on my walls, and it did cost extra. However, there is no wind blow-through, my walls are extra soild, the building doesn't rattle when a door slams, and I am able to heat it with half the Kilowatts (elec. here is much cheaper than propane) than I should need with a shop my size. Dollar per dollar, the only way to go if you are keeping your shop heated all the time.

Good luck.

When my neighbor built his garage, he welded tabs or mounting plates on the insides of his posts (by inside I mean between the posts). Then he welded or screwed his 4" perlin with the "C" facing down...so his walls were framed much like a house wall is framed. This allowed him to attach tin to both the inside and outside of the wall with no additional material required (except the tin of course). This adds time initially, but is the thrifty way to go. He then had what he called "stick pins" which look like nails about 2-3 inches long with a thin flat washer of about 2 inch diameter on one end. He then used liquid nails to glue the washer to the outer tin. He then took rolled insulation and hung it on the stick pins.

Just thought I would through this out since it had not been mentioned before.

Good Luck
Tim

Dusty MI

If you install a steel blade with the teeth backwards, you avoid the large chips and the potential to have the blade grab and stall in the metal. I suppose the carbide inserts could come loose running the blade backward (good reason to use a steel blade).

This does burn a little of the galvanizing, but with a trim strip, it won't show.

I learned this method while helping a friend roof an old barn, and later cut the metal for my chicken house roof this way.

For the ceiling you need to block out the ends with 2x4 to fasten the sheets to my rafters were 2 feet on center to screw up into. And you should have a vented eaves you install deflector to keep blown in ins. from blowing out into eaves then stuff fiberglass batt under them and nooks and crannies. I had fiberglass blown into my ceiling.

This does seem to be very well insulated and not hard to heat a 32x48 I have 2 insulated overhead doors 10x8 everything seems sealed up good but still get lady bugs and some small insects I have to clean up often.