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Hi Joe, To dehumidifiy you either need to heat above 212� or refrigerate below the dew point of the air. Standard air is 50%rh at 70� A humdifier adds moisture to the air. Accurate realitive humidity is measured with a sling psychrometer. wet bulb temperature minus dry bulb temperature equals realitive humidity on as plotted on a psycrometric chart. Iran has a huge problem with there buildings gathering moisture as there temperatures swing from 100� plus during the day time to below freezing at night and they use alot of earth buildings, So most of there buildings were colasping from too much moisture content. What they did was to make a small diesel heater. They used a 55gal drum of diesel 10ft above the ground, so discharge pressure was 2.31psi, added a ball valve (flow control), then piped diesel into a small oriface (pipe cap drilled to .0625) then placed the oriface into a conical bucket (2" inside the bucket lip) with the bottom removed and fired it off. A mini blast furnace was born. They plugged the doorways and windows with blocks made from earth leaving a roof opening of about 10" diameter for a chimney. After 24hrs at 2000� the 2ft walls were bone dry of moisture and the problem was solved. They used temperture cones for kilns for thermometers. In your case, you would need to heat soak for 24hrs but only at 250� and naturally you would need to babysit your project as your walls are combustable. After the walls, ceiling and floor were dry, then you could seal them. You could use a modified version of a outside blast furnace by taking heated air duct into your building via forced air fans. For less than $500 your problem would be solved of the current room humidity problems. Then you would need to seal the room to stop the problem from reoccuring. T_Bone
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