Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Lathe questions

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
john_bud

02-20-2006 14:22:22




Report to Moderator

Hi,

I have been looking at lathes on ebay and in the paper, butI don't know what all the terms mean!

Can someone breakdown what they all are and maybe let me in on what to look for and watch out for, too!

Gap bed lathe
Engine lathe Gear head lathe

What are they and why is one better than another for a home shop?

Thanks a bunch,
jb




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
benny2

02-21-2006 14:04:57




Report to Moderator
 These are the questions you need to Re: Lathe ques in reply to john_bud, 02-20-2006 14:22:22  
The first question you should ask yourself is What are most of the jobs you are going to do? What size what materials, not the odd job of an oversize Flywheel.
How much accuracy do you require? Are you making parts for aircraft engines or plastic molds? How much work are you going to be doing? 8 hrs a day or 8 hrs per month. Where Iam I going to put this machine? Shop or basement? Will I beable to unload and move this machine without hiring a machinery mover? If it is a comercial machine will I have sufficiant elec power, most are 220/440 three phase. it is not practial to convert these machines to single phase. Not so old as to have babitt bearing headstock either. Forget the Gap bed machines keeping them accurate is beyoned the home or even small machine shops expertise.
Mostly a 12" by 36" or 12 x 24" is best for home shop use, belt drive with back gear will sufice.
By the best machine you can afford, if used this will include structurual condintion. Then Get a Great QC tool post. PS great machines are not cheap!!

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Joe(TX)

02-22-2006 05:20:25




Report to Moderator
 Re: These are the questions you need to Re: Lathe in reply to benny2, 02-21-2006 14:04:57  
You do not need to convert the lathe to single phase. A phase converter or VF (variable frequency drive) can make them operate on single phase. there are rotary and static converter available. The rotary is more flexible. I built a rotary phase converter to run my 7 1/2 hp lathe.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Joe(TX)

02-21-2006 05:47:24




Report to Moderator
 Re: Lathe questions in reply to john_bud, 02-20-2006 14:22:22  
Mike summed up the differances pretty good. Gap beds are handy for machining things like flywheels without having a very large lathe.
What kind you need depends on what you want to do with it. I used a 9 in Sheldon lathe (like a South Bend) for several years to make pins, bushings, etc. I now have a 14 in Clausing because I need to make bigger and more accurate parts. The larger the lathe, the more space and power it requires.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
MikeCatthemuseum

02-20-2006 15:37:54




Report to Moderator
 Re: Lathe questions in reply to john_bud, 02-20-2006 14:22:22  
snitkawl is pretty close.

Gap bed can have a removeable section in the headstock area (typical asian import) or can have a bed that slides towards the tailstock to open the gap (older heavy industrial style and far preferable as it does not lose alignment). The asian stykle machines have occasionally been found to be ground with paint under the removeable section, which causes the bed to be misaligned if the paint is removed. Unless you just HAVE to have a gap bed, you will be far better off with a lathe of larger swing.

Engine Lathe.. technically, a lathe equipped with leadscrew and capable of cutting threads. Usually refers to a lathe of this capability and often a larger floor type. Most "metal lathes" you look at will be an engine lathe by definition.

Toolroom lathe... ordinarily used to double the price of an engine lathe with supposed greater precision. In reality, has nothing to do with precision as all older lathes were of suitable tolerance to be used in a toolroom. This is by definition a lathe with reverse-to-leadscrew which allows threading without reference to a threading dial. A single-tooth engaging clutch on the leadscrew maintains the relative position of the leadscrew and spindle so the thread is re-entered at the same point upon re-engagement. If you find one, they can do threading work with amazing speed and have stops that can be set for threading to shoulders. Extremely nice feature to have.

Gear head... Nearly EVERY lathe is belt driven from the motor. Most gear head lathes are belt drive to the clutch and/or transmission countershaft. The only one I can think of that is not belt-driven somewhere would be the Axleson, which is direct motor drive to the clutch. Gear head usually refers to the speed changes being made by shifting gears instead of a typical cone pulley and backgear arrangement. A huge advantage of a true gearhead is that they will usually be equipped with a clutch to engage the spindle, which also typically allows a braking action. This greatly reduces starting loads on the entire driveline and motor and also allows the drive to be disengaged for speed changes without stopping the motor. DO NOT work on the lathe or get hands and other body parts around the moving parts of the machine with the motor running as the clutch may grab or get bumped into engagement accidentally.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
snitkawl

02-20-2006 14:37:58




Report to Moderator
 Re: Lathe questions in reply to john_bud, 02-20-2006 14:22:22  
Hi John. Gap bed lathe has a section of the bed,below the chuck, that is removable. Gives more room to turn larger diameter pieces.
Engine lathe. As opposed to special use lathes. I am not sure how to differeniate it, but for general use it is what you want.
Gear head lathe spindle is driven by gears instead of a belt as older lathes were. Those are called conehead among other things.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
john_bud

02-21-2006 14:03:13




Report to Moderator
 Re: Lathe questions in reply to snitkawl, 02-20-2006 14:37:58  
Thanks guys!

That helps clear up my confusion. I'll still keep an eye out for a good old American lathe.

jb



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy