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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Power hacksaw

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ldj

02-13-2006 12:13:43




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I have an old Craftsman Power hacksaw. Does anyone know how to adjust the mechanism that raises the blade on the non cutting stroke. It has 2 identical catches and I can adjust it where one or the other will catch but not both. The thing works ok on either catch. Looks like it should catch on both. Maybe they thought if one missed the other would catch. I haven't tried it with the weight all the way out to make the saw have lot of down pressure on it. It might slip with just one holding????
L.D.

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Hermit

02-14-2006 16:27:35




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 Re: Power hacksaw in reply to ldj, 02-13-2006 12:13:43  
If you used a good spring steel, I wouldn't worry about hardening. The stress is a shear stress and the fingers don't really bite into the teeth. As for cutting straight, I don't think a new blade will help. Those old machines wear with age. The cutting pressure is offset from the pivot point causing a twisting stress. If you raise the blade frame about 45 degrees and try to rotate it right and left, you'll see some slop in the arm pivot point and/or the metal block the blade frame rides on. As for the metal block wear, there are 3 screws/locknuts on top of the blade frame that can be tightened evenly but not too tight. It still needs to slide smoothly. As for the pivot point wear, you might be able to rotate that pivot shaft 180 degrees to give it a fresh surface to ride on. Or if you want, replace the shaft and bushing. But I always look for the cheapest way to fix things myself first. Have fun.

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Hermit

02-14-2006 10:55:14




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 Re: Power hacksaw in reply to ldj, 02-13-2006 12:13:43  
Here's some info I found out while adjusting mine. The steel fingers that engage the teeth need to be sharp. I filed them to a clean edge. I also found you can turn those fingers 180 degrees and use the other end if the first end is too short. The teeth the fingers engage need to be clean and straight-edged. I cleaned mine with a wire brush and used a file to clean up some rough edges. There needs to be a balance between the adustment of the bolts under the levers and the fingers. The height of the bolts help determine how high the eccentric arm will raise the blade off the metal you're cutting. The fingers need to be adjusted so they just clear the teeth on the cutting stroke and are fully engaged on the non-cutting stroke. I measured the distance between the top of the bolts and the levers when the blade was on the non-cutting stroke. It came out to 1/32 inch. The levers were resting on the bolts on the cutting stroke. As for the rationale of using 2 levers, it may be possible to adjust the levers so they will only lift the blade half a tooth at a time. This may be required depending on the type of metal, coarse or fine blade, size of metal being cut, need to clean the cut of shavings, etc. Just a guess. I have mine set to lift using both levers at the same time. Have fun.

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ldj

02-14-2006 12:19:13




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 Re: Power hacksaw in reply to Hermit, 02-14-2006 10:55:14  
Thanks Hermit,
I hadn't thought about turning them 180*. I made another set and I believe it might be ok now.. I wonder if I should harden the ones I made? The ones that were on it wasn't hard. If I harden them it might ware out the teeth and I couldn't make them. Does yours cut good and square? Mine doesn't but I have junk blades. I have ordered new 1" wide blades. That hopefully should let it cut square.
L.D.

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DaveInMI

02-13-2006 16:24:56




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 Re: Power hacksaw in reply to ldj, 02-13-2006 12:13:43  
I think those little flat spring steel fingers are worn on the one I have. They are listed on the Sears parts website. I thought I would tinker with them a bit before trying to replace them. They are adjustable. That looks like a place to start.



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ldj

02-13-2006 18:09:54




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 Re: Power hacksaw in reply to DaveInMI, 02-13-2006 16:24:56  
Yea, I think you are right. I've had this thing about 15 years and have used it only occasionally. Just a couple days ago I took it all apart, cleaned and painted. This afternoon I was trying and it would lift for a while and then quit for a while. I'll try to make some of those little catches, springs or what ever they are. They are short but they do catch most of the time. I really haven't figured out what those little stops on the bottom of the levers are for. I took them plump off and also adjusted the way up. Wasn't much difference except adjusted way up. You recon you can still get them from sears. If so how about a manual. I would like to more about that adjustment.

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