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Underground cooling

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Ken

02-21-2001 17:32:01




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I saw an entry by T_bone concerning underground cooling, as shown by his quote "You can use a natural cool air under ground system. This uses a under ground space, pipes, chamber void, water trap, etc:, 8ft under ground. At 8ft the ground temp does not change temperature year around".

I would like to find more detailed info concerning the technique.
Thanks in advance.
ken




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ken

02-22-2001 18:26:56




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 Re: Underground cooling in reply to Ken , 02-21-2001 17:32:01  
Thanks to everyone for your input. Guess I shall go onward with the dome and investigate the GHP systems. I have enough to keep me busy with applying drywall in the dome, working on my VWs and retro fitting two pickups into one.
I will let everyone know what decision is made.
Thanks again.
ken



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T_Bone

02-23-2001 20:39:55




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 Re: Re: Underground cooling in reply to ken, 02-22-2001 18:26:56  
Hi Ken, I also worked on some solar hot water systems. The best one was made of 2, 4x8ft pannels that were made from radaitors from large trucks?. There were two in each pannel so each were approx. 40 X 42" approx 3" thick with standard 1/4" glass with 1" rigid board backing. The storage tank was 80gal. These two pannels heated the storage tank from 70F to 180F in 1-1/2hrs at a 60F ambient temperature with sunny skies. Truly amazing for such a simple system! This one made my mouth drop open. I met the guy who owned the system last year and asked him how it was doing as I repaired this system 12yrs before. He stated he hasn't had a repair since ( we had to replace controls and tank) and still supply's "all" the hot water for a family of four including laundry with hot water left over. The only requirement is laundry has to be done during day light hours. He was also in the process of putting a hot water coil on his cloths dryer.

If a person would take this system several steps forward, one could heat there home or a good portion of the heating requirement with a very cheap system providing they maintained it themselfs and installed the componets (additional pannels and underground storage). With any solar system, maintance costs might exceed fuel savings if serviced by a company and not the owner.

T_Bone

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Tom

05-15-2002 17:36:29




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 Re: Re: Re: Underground cooling in reply to T_Bone, 02-23-2001 20:39:55  
Underground cooling?
I have 5 32"x94" pannels a 120 gal tank, and we top 200 degrees in the summer time. Hot water lasts up to 5 days of cloudy weather. We had them over 20 years, had them rebuilt once. We pre heat the water going thru our oil fired heater in the winter with these pannels. But tell me more about Underground cooling or solar electric! It's the thing, it should



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ltf in nc

02-22-2001 16:38:39




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 Re: Underground cooling in reply to Ken , 02-21-2001 17:32:01  
Ken, I heat and cool using a geothermal heat pump using ground water. It has been one of the best decisions that I have made. The highest electric bill that I have had for this winter is $160. As I live in the country, this covers the electricity for well water, power for the shop (2500 sq. ft. work area, no heat here, oil used) and the total power for 3000 sq. ft. with 9 ft ceilings of conditioned area for the house. As additional info, this is the highest bill that I have had since the house was built in '92. My cooling bills are less than heating. It is not uncommon to have summer time bills in the $70 range. The equipment costs were competitive with other systems and the system should last 25 years with minimum maintenance. Obviously, I highly recommend this method of heating and cooling.

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Bill Oakes

02-22-2001 06:01:19




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 Re: Underground cooling in reply to Ken , 02-21-2001 17:32:01  
Hi Ken,
I studied this subject back when I was building my house. It can be very successful if you live where the air is very dry in the summer. If you live in an area of high humidity you will be disappointed. When warm, moisture ladden air is drawn into underground pipes it will drop below the dew point and deposit water in the pipes. Soon you will have your environmental air being pulled thruogh a very unhealthy space before it gets to you. Have you heard of Legionaire's Disease? I worked with a fellow once that told me he was going to install a whole house fan in his second floor ceiling, close all the windows in the house except in the basement, then draw air in through the nice cool basement and up thru the house (cheap A/C). I warned him of the moisture problem but he went ahaed. After a while he told me it worked great for a couple of days then he realized he had water all over everthing in the basement and it was starting to smell. Same principal. If you live in the desert southwest it would likely work great but in many parts of the country it will not. I hope this helps. Bill

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T_Bone

02-22-2001 07:31:33




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 Re: Re: Underground cooling in reply to Bill Oakes, 02-22-2001 06:01:19  
Hi Bill, He maybe should have considered a underground closed loop water system. Amibent humidity is a real bear to deal with. There is also a company in Florida that came up with a solar refrigeration generator and was selling them with houses they built that made electricity for 100% self efficent. The last I heard the local Utilitys put them out of business. I would have enjoyed looking at one to see all the enternal parts!

About the only way to rid yourself of humidity is to drop the temperature under the dew point and that just don't happen with closed loop water systems but might have made a difference on making a heat pump more efficent on the condensor side.

T_Bone

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VaTom

02-22-2001 07:28:20




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 Re: Re: Underground cooling in reply to Bill Oakes, 02-22-2001 06:01:19  
Bill is absolutely right! If you don't have the humidity or don't mind dehumidifying before the earth tubes, a good book is "Passive Annual Heat Storage" by John Hait. Half the book deals with earth tubes. A guy from another list got a copy from his library but decided like Bill, maybe not.

Here in Va. we use the other half of the book for designing our underground houses but use air-to-air heat exchangers for ventilation. They'll collect a lot of water too if you don't have a dehumidifier in the air stream.

With all due respect to T-Bone, dirt, outside of Arizona, doesn't perform quite that well. But it's a whole lot better than anything else. Hait explains how heat moves through dry dirt very well. Our experiences confirm this. There's probably a web site, but I haven't spent time there.

Our local building department is now a fan of this type of housing. Extreme unbelievers initially. Controlling humidity is everything.

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T_Bone

02-23-2001 23:42:15




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 Re: Re: Re: Underground cooling in reply to VaTom, 02-22-2001 07:28:20  
Hi Tom, You only need to increase the capicity of the earth ground coils to aquire sufficent cooling in wet soil applications. Over all system efficiency would be improved versus a ambient air over coil system. There's a large area that this technology can be applied too. Ground coils could also provide chilled water that could be used in a piggyback HP system where the thermal coils would provide the cooling and refrigeration coils provide dehumidifcation again being more energy efficent than a conventional HP.

T_Bone

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VaTom

02-24-2001 04:52:31




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Underground cooling in reply to T_Bone, 02-23-2001 23:42:15  
Hey T_Bone, thanks for the suggestion. I'm sure you're right. We don't bother with hp's at all. Just use a used Sears dehumidifier in the air stream with 6" round ducts. Only need to move 100cfm with each fan (in and out). Dehumidifiers go for around $50. Pretty cheap system and the dehumidifiers are the most expensive part that can wear out. Underground, as you pointed out, doesn't need ac. Summer elec. bill will go up $20/month. Kinda like if you ran a swamp cooler the first half of the summer, when they work there.

VaTom (ex-Arizonan)

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T_Bone

02-24-2001 05:19:50




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Underground cooling in reply to VaTom, 02-24-2001 04:52:31  
Hi Tom, This is a topic I really enjoy because there's so many options to discuss and just as many ideas. I take it you don't need cooling where your at, just dehumidifiers? That must make for some sticky working conditions during the summer. If the well water was cooler here it should would help as without it were at the mercy of the utility company.

How long you been gone from here? I'm sure you don't miss the summers!

T_Bone

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VaTom

02-24-2001 06:28:08




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Underground cooling in reply to T_Bone, 02-24-2001 05:19:50  
Boy, T_Bone, you're an early riser. I KNOW it's not that hot this early in the year! And we're a country mile off thread. Oh, well. We're the ONLY home builders who don't use AC around here. "Sticky" is putting it mildly. Not unlike your August monsoon season. If we didn't dehumidify, we'd have water running down the inside of our walls. Other reason, not yet mentioned, for frequent air changes is to eliminate potential radon problems.

As I recall, your well water typically spends a bit of time sitting in a water tower to give gravity pressure. And they didn't even used to paint the tanks white. Pretty good pre-heater for the water heater, but that's about all.

It's been almost 30 years since I was a desert rat. Used to carry grapefruit to keep the air-cooled VW running. I never did run into anybody else in the summer doing desert mountain climbing. Older and a little wiser now. Spend a little time spelunking out there and you don't have to be a rocket scientist to figure out underground's a lot more comfortable. Just needs ventilation and fewer bats. You aware that those cotton farmers and others pumping water have dropped the ground elevation significantly?

VaTom (CGUHS grad)

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T_Bone

02-24-2001 06:48:35




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Underground cooling in reply to VaTom, 02-24-2001 06:28:08  
Hi Tom, I'll be dipped, another follow Casagrande people :) I'm about 30 miles west in Hidden Valley.

Yep radon is a problem in several places. Most places make it more of a problem than it really is. A little venting and problem solved! Yakima, Wa has a big problem with Radon gas and supposed to be the worst in the USA. They tore down a few homes and the gov't bought back the land as normal correction methods would not work.

I've been here about 16yrs now and the water table was 400ft when we got here and now is back too 300ft because they made the farmers quit irrigating with well water. They put in a pipe line from the Colorado River to just South of Tuscon and charge (gouge) the farmers really bad.

The well water temperatures I've have been talking about is not storage tank temps but well discharge temps!

T_Bone

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Steve U.S. Alloys

02-22-2001 06:01:12




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 Re: Underground cooling in reply to Ken , 02-21-2001 17:32:01  
I've looked into geo thermal for use in a house I want to move onto some property of mine next fall.
Your local power coop will have a list of contractors in your area that do the installs. They will be a good source of printed info as well.

The tubing can be placed in a well or in a pond in addition to be buried. Putting it a pond is quite a bit less expensive than burying it in a trench or a vertical loop but over time sediment will build-up and insulate the tubing from the water.

I once saw a system like you spoke of where air was brought in. I think it was an early version of what is now couple with a heat pump. Anyway, here's a link to some government publication you may find useful. If it doesn't work send me an e-mail and I'll send you a link from the actual page.

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MarkB

02-22-2001 03:16:01




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 Re: Underground cooling in reply to Ken , 02-21-2001 17:32:01  
Many years ago I saw something about this on "This Old House". The concept was pretty simple:

Bury a hundred feet or so of culvert deep in the ground. (eight feet or so I guess). One end of the culvert runs into your house. The other end terminates in a little shed and is connected to a large blower. In warm weather, you turn on the blower and 50 degree air blows into your house.

This was in a northern climate, as I recall.

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Levi

02-21-2001 19:00:09




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 Re: Underground cooling in reply to Ken , 02-21-2001 17:32:01  
Try a search for "Geothermal" On this board.
There is a link in one of the followups that has a lot of info.
I have gotten interrested in this also.
If I come across any other info I'll let you know.

May GOD bless,
Levi



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ken

02-21-2001 20:02:25




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 Re: Re: Underground cooling in reply to Levi, 02-21-2001 19:00:09  
Thanks Levi.
I found the URLs and read a lot of info. Too bad the commercial side always wants the whole hog. I want to utilize the ground temp for cooling. My house is a geodesic dome and is insulated quite well. The coldest I have found it this winter is 48 degrees, with no heat. The house is not completed yet. I also believe that I can retrofit anything to the house, as I have already have an air circulation system installed.
I may contact you and T-bone from time to time.
Thanks again for your help.
Ken

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T_Bone

02-22-2001 06:26:30




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 Re: Re: Re: Underground cooling in reply to ken, 02-21-2001 20:02:25  
Hi Ken, What the basic therory is, the ground at 8ft doesn't change temperature year around (world wide) and is used a big heat sink by either air or piped water as a tranfer medium.

Another known fact is a earth wall 2ft thick will also stay at a constant temperature year around in free amibemt air. There is no known calculation for this insulating quality but it is a time proven therory. The inside of a earth enclosed building will maintain a constant 70F degrees.

Iran, Egypt etc: have used both therorys for thousands of years for building. Most of the USA has adopted the Universal Building Code (UBC) which doesn't allow for earth buildings! I have a feeling the Utility Company's have alot of say so in this Code! In the past 10years, Arizona now allows earth buildings but still will not approve a all earth roof.

When I fine my refference book on earth buildings of Iran, I'll post it. It was written by a professor at U of A and I think it's title was Ceramic Houses. This guy has studied Iran's building method for a number of years that uses both therory's mentioned. Iran has very little electricity to there homes and there climate changes from 20 below zero to 120F above yearly.

How this professor ended up in Iran, was Iran forgot to seal there buildings with clay to make them water tight, then had a 100yr flood soaking the walls to 100% and making them very unstable. He solved the problem by making a blast furance fueled by diesel, that sealed the inside walls to a ceramic texture with over 2000F degrees, letting each building soak in heat for several days. They used a 1/4" clay for a water tight seal on the outside of the building after drying.

I don't post my e-mail addy all the time so please mark it now. I make too many mistakes when I type it.

T_Bone

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Wade

02-22-2001 15:17:08




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Underground cooling in reply to T_Bone, 02-22-2001 06:26:30  
I found what I'm going to build in Natural Homes magazine. It's called cob. There's a bunch of weird looking cob structures on the web, but the one that sold me on the idea is a somewhat traditional european looking chalet. Cob is clay and straw mixed in forms. It can be as thick as you like. As I'm doing it myself on my place, codes be damned.



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