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Stihl saw oiler adjustment. and TIG, go figure

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Wade

02-20-2001 22:22:32




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Isn't there an adjustment for the output of the auto oiler? I'd like to get more oil on the chain. Where is the port? Am I turning the right screw? I'd like the fuel and oil to run out at the same time. It's an 024 about 8 years old. But wait there's more. How do you know when to replace a bar. Mine shows some wear.

And for the welders: I'm going to be at the end of a single phase run. How will this limit my tig-machine capabilities? AND Where do I start for TIG learning? Welder buds (two available), vo-tec school, read a book?

Really all this IS related. I'm sawing out the right-of-way (six poles worth) for the power to come in so I can build a killer tractor and other (racecar) fabrication facility--as well as have home, vineyard, and mountain bike trails.

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Steve U.S. Alloys

02-23-2001 06:01:26




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 Re: Stihl saw oiler adjustment. and TIG, go figure in reply to Wade, 02-20-2001 22:22:32  
You know wade, if you take a short, inexpensive GTAW course at the local level you will get the basics and also have a good idea of what you need in the way of equipment. You'll know how many amps to look for, whether or not you want finger tip or foot control, what shape tungsten for various applications, etc. Afterwards, there are some good text books available for referrence. (If you can't find books locally I have some on the web site. Be glad to send you a link if you want one.) There is really no substitute for experience though.

The guys are giving you some other good info in regards to amperage draw. A small econo tig draws 52 amps on 230 volts. The inverters draw little more than half that.

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Wade

02-21-2001 21:09:23




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 Re: Stihl saw oiler adjustment. and TIG, go figure in reply to Wade, 02-20-2001 22:22:32  
I found the problem. When I flipped the bar a while back I didn't notice that the oiler port was partially plugged.

Played with a big new Jonsered saw today. It belongs to a woman!

Thanks for the TIG post T, good advice.



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Al English

02-21-2001 21:43:20




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 Re: Re: Stihl saw oiler adjustment. and TIG, go figure in reply to Wade, 02-21-2001 21:09:23  
Watch out Wade, they're all like that. At first they are more than willing to let you play with their chain saw, but the next thing you know you'll be changing tires and taking out the trash. Then one day you'll wish you had just played with your own saw..... ..



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Wade

02-22-2001 11:35:15




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 Re: Re: Re: Stihl saw oiler adjustment. and TIG, go figure in reply to Al English, 02-21-2001 21:43:20  
Well--she's got a man...but he's got an itty bitty saw!



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T_Bone

02-21-2001 09:10:13




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 Re: Stihl saw oiler adjustment. and TIG, go figure in reply to Wade, 02-20-2001 22:22:32  
Hi Wade, since you've been into stick and Mig welding, I would just buy a Tig torch and jump right in. Tig is such a controled arc that it's easy to learn. Reread some of my posts about Tig welding pipe and use that info to start with. If you don't want the equipment expense, then Vo-Tech would be the way to go.

I use a different method for teaching weldimg. I tell everyone to turn down the amps and see what happens, turn the amps very high, hold a long arc, a short arc, speed up really fast on travel, slow down to a crawl, stick the tungsten in the weld puddle, etc: and observe what happens to the weld puddle. It much more natural to make mistakes while learning to weld than it is to make a pefect weld, so by trying my method you see what causes the mistakes therefor you'll learn what to do to correct a problem. Probably the hardest to learn is getting both hands to work together, one hand controls the torch and the other hand feeds the filler rod and that just takes alot of practice to learn. There again try adding to much filler rod and see what the puddle looks like, then go the other way, don't add but very little rod. Be very observent of the weld puddle when you make these two mistakes, then you'll see how much filler rod to add before you move the torch.

A good exercise is to make a lap joint, tac every 1/2", set the weldment to a 45 degree verticle slope, use both hands on the torch and drag a bead verticle down with rolling the arc on the top lap edge, this is the filler metal. Then put the arc right down the middle of the joint and observe the weld puddle. Then try going way far back on the top metal lap, then go way down on the base metal lap and see what difference there is in the weld puddle. You will soon learn how far to come up on the top lap piece to get filer metal to make a very nice bead. Weld for about 1/2" at a time then stop and observe what the weld looks like before changing your weld puddle control method. Make one change at a time! If you make more than one adjustment at a time, then you won't know what caused the orginal problem.

This should get you on your way to learning Tig (GTAW, Gas Tungsten Arc Welding) welding.

T_Bone

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Al English

02-21-2001 04:58:00




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 Re: Stihl saw oiler adjustment. and TIG, go figure in reply to Wade, 02-20-2001 22:22:32  
Hi Wade, Many of the newer welders are three phase only, but that's not universally the case. A good single phase machine is just that, a good machine. Since this is a new service here's one thing to consider. At 250 welding amps a single phase Miller Dialarc TIG machine draws up to 90 amps at 220 volts. Be sure the utility service, and your service panel, are big enough to run your house AND your shop. Good luck...Al English

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MarkB

02-21-2001 03:11:47




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 Re: Stihl saw oiler adjustment. and TIG, go figure in reply to Wade, 02-20-2001 22:22:32  
Dunno about the 024, but many Stihl saws have an adjustment screw on the bottom. If yours has the adjustment, it's pretty obvious. You don't want the oil to run out at the same time as the gas, because if the oil happens to run out first, you just bought a new bar.

If you have a Stihl bar, you will see markings on the bar that indicate the minimum groove depth.



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VaTom

02-21-2001 05:29:12




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 Re: Re: Stihl saw oiler adjustment. and TIG, go figure in reply to MarkB, 02-21-2001 03:11:47  
Biggest problem with bars, assuming normal wear, is the groove spreading over time. You can buy a tool, from Bailey's, to fix the problem for about the cost of 3 bars. Or make one. You know something's amiss when chain, properly tensioned, starts coming off. Your Stihl manual will explain how to test for sufficient bar oil. We assume you're not running motor oil for bar lubrication. I have little faith in "lubricated for life" and drill small holes in my tips to enable greasing the sprocket. Sounds like you'll be busy for awhile.

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Franz

02-20-2001 22:36:10




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 Re: Stihl saw oiler adjustment. and TIG, go figure in reply to Wade, 02-20-2001 22:22:32  
Many of the older Tig machines are single phase, I own 3 P&H machines, and they all work just fine. Tig welding, well, the book will get you started, and your buddys will certainly be a lot of help too, especially when it comes to getting you straight on what you think you learned in the book. Then, Practice, Practice and more practice, and you'll get the hang of it.



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Franz

02-20-2001 22:35:50




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 Re: Stihl saw oiler adjustment. and TIG, go figure in reply to Wade, 02-20-2001 22:22:32  
Many of the older Tig machines are single phase, I own 3 P&H machines, and they all work just fine. Tig welding, well, the book will get you started, and your buddys will certainly be a lot of help too, especially when it comes to getting you straight on what you think you learned in the book. Then, Practice, Practice and more practice, and you'll get the hang of it.



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