Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Chainsaw chain damaged....

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Kubota man

02-02-2006 07:02:05




Report to Moderator

If the chainsaw chain gets a little loose and jumps off the rail, I've had problems with 8-10 of the little inner tangs/tabs on the chain that get slightly bent or scored such that they won"t go back in the bar groove. I"ve had to take a file and clean them up so they"ll fit in the bar groove again. Any tips on cleaning up those little tabs (Dremel tool, etc.) other than using the slow filing method (and making sure the chain DOESN"T come off the bar!).

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Dave NE IA

02-03-2006 10:30:24




Report to Moderator
 Re: Chainsaw chain damaged.... in reply to Kubota man, 02-02-2006 07:02:05  
Is this the origanal chain or could you have gotten the wrong tangs on the repacment. Seen that more than once. If it is the original and or correct chain it would strongly suggest a worn sprocket. If your saw has a roller tip and some major running time, or a non lubricating issue it could be that as well. You should be able to tell if your chain is meshing with your sprocket as your chain could be pretty tight and your chain should be able to spin with a gloved hand real easy. If it climbs even a little you probably can narrow the problem down. I have burned wood since 71, do some tree removal / trim jobs and never even once filed on the tangs, although not impossible I would not think real probable. I run a pretty tight chain, on the bigger saws, but have seen many guys get by with a chain so loose you could toss a cat between the chain and bar when the saw is shut off. Actualy your saw manuals usually address this issue pretty well. Good luck Dave NE IA

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Ken Macfarlane

02-03-2006 05:24:32




Report to Moderator
 Re: Chainsaw chain damaged.... in reply to Kubota man, 02-02-2006 07:02:05  
So yeah, I'll repeat the chain shouldn't come off the bar. Is it very dull causing it to get hot, stretch and fall off? It has to be quite loose to come off.

I'd say get a new chain, the bent drive tabs will wear your bar and drive sprocket.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
2x4

02-02-2006 18:58:24




Report to Moderator
 Re: Chainsaw chain damaged.... in reply to Kubota man, 02-02-2006 07:02:05  
those are called "drive teeth" becuz the sprocket drives them. I touch "em up (lightly) with a bench grinder.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Stan in Oly, WA

02-02-2006 13:53:36




Report to Moderator
 Re: Chainsaw chain damaged.... in reply to Kubota man, 02-02-2006 07:02:05  
If you live near a logging town, take your saw to a shop there for repairs, chair sharpening, and replacement parts. They deal with people who can't afford to have their equipment down, and it's their main business so they're good at it.

Stan



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Leland

02-02-2006 09:17:01




Report to Moderator
 Re: Chainsaw chain damaged.... in reply to Kubota man, 02-02-2006 07:02:05  
New bar nad chain won't cost much ,and a lot of people never clean the grove in bar use a thin knife blade to scrape out junk have saw this several times .



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Billy NY

02-02-2006 07:49:11




Report to Moderator
 Re: Chainsaw chain damaged.... in reply to Kubota man, 02-02-2006 07:02:05  
I've had this occur on a few of those guides I'll call them, then while fixing one of these, dropped the bar nose first into the dirt, that was fun to clean the bar sprocket & ball bearings 100%. Soaked, blew out with air, still grit, repeat, repeat repeat, LOL. I did what you are doing, took the burrs off and made sure all the works were smooth. Only time I've tossed a chain is when I hit a sapling and it gets caught, seems like it does this only when the cutters are dull, and the chain too slack, so I do an accurate sharpen with the MFR's guide clamp on bar guide, I compared results with my friend who has an almost identical Stihl as mine, he was sharpening the cutters with a dremel with a guide, in my opinion after sharpening his with the bar clamp guide, his dremel guide was inaccurate or it was just him, as the cutters were not as easy to sharpen as mine, it took a lot longer to get them like mine, his saw was new as well as mine, so he did not ruin the cutters I straightened them out and he said there was a big improvement in performance. He won't use the dremel anymore. I read the manuals and took it literally, then did my best to teach myself how to do what they instruct,without being ridiculous, the manual certainly was stringent, took me awhile to absorb the process. I don't think its all that bad to do it with this guide and a file, I get an accurate sharpen, in 1/2 hour. I also bought the $15.00 field sharpen kit with the file holders and the depth gauge, the clamp on guide was $100.00 and not machinist quality but seems to do the job. They say the accuracy of the sharpen and the uniformity of the cutters, the depth of cut plays a role in performance, I am by no means an expert, but I do know that a dull saw or improperly tensioned chain etc. etc. increases the danger factor. Last time I tossed a chain, it hit that aluminum catch under the cover, I think that is there to help absorb some of the energy, I've never tossed one at a high speed, always when cutting slow. i think that catch is important safety device that needs to be replaced after it's been used, not sure though. One thing I also don't know is what proper chain tension should be, I keep mine taut, but with some slack on the bottom, and I keep the oiler on max. Someone will hopefully add to this, and I may stand corrected, no expert, just sharing some of my experiences with it. I do however respect these things, they have no conscience !

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Brueford

02-02-2006 07:42:06




Report to Moderator
 Re: Chainsaw chain damaged.... in reply to Kubota man, 02-02-2006 07:02:05  
This MY opinion.

If the saw means a lot, like it HAS to work and get the job done in a timely manner...

Junk the chain, get a new one.

If the bar is chewed up, have it repaired, or replace it.

If the sprocket on the clutch is shot or all chewed up have it replaced also.

These are all things that might be standard maintinance issues with a saw that has to "earn it's keep"

You may find that filing those tangs that ride in the bar get's it going for now, but it's got to be tearing up the bar now, not to mention the clutch sprocket.

Find a "saw shop" that will treat you well.

Not all saw shops are created equal. Your little corner mower shop might help you out but at the same time the saw may have more downtime while parts come in. Who knows if they even have a guy with real saw shop experience.


While a good saw shop might have parts in stock, and maybe even a better price to you in the end.

Pick up a spare chain while you are there and if something like this happens again just change the chain.

I think by the time a chain starts jumping off the saw, things need attention. Like the bar itself needs repair, perhaps.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Billy NY

02-02-2006 07:29:39




Report to Moderator
 Re: Chainsaw chain damaged.... in reply to Kubota man, 02-02-2006 07:02:05  
I've had this occur on a few of those guides I'll call them, then while fixing one of these, dropped the bar nose first into the dirt, that was fun to clean the bar sprocket & ball bearings 100%. Soaked, blew out with air, still grit, repeat, repeat repeat, LOL. I did what you are doing, took the burrs off and made sure all the works were smooth. Only time I've tossed a chain is when I hit a sapling and it gets caught, seems like it does this only when the cutters are dull, and the chain too slack, so I do an accurate sharpen with the MFR's guide clamp on bar guide, I compared results with my friend who has an almost identical Stihl as mine, he was sharpening the cutters with a dremel with a guide, in my opinion after sharpening his with the bar clamp guide, his dremel guide was inaccurate or it was just him, as the cutters were not as easy to sharpen as mine, it took a lot longer to get them like mine, his saw was new as well as mine, so he did not ruin the cutters I straightened them out and he said there was a big improvement in performance. He won't use the dremel anymore. I read the manuals and took it literally, then did my best to teach myself how to do what they instruct,without being ridiculous, the manual certainly was stringent, took me awhile to absorb the process. I don't think its all that bad to do it with this guide and a file, I get an accurate sharpen, in 1/2 hour. I also bought the $15.00 field sharpen kit with the file holders and the depth gauge, the clamp on guide was $100.00 and not machinist quality but seems to do the job. They say the accuracy of the sharpen and the uniformity of the cutters, the depth of cut plays a role in performance, I am by no means an expert, but I do know that a dull saw or improperly tensioned chain etc. etc. increases the danger factor. Last time I tossed a chain, it hit that aluminum catch under the cover, I think that is there to help absorb some of the energy, I've never tossed one at a high speed, always when cutting slow. i think that catch is important safety device that needs to be replaced after it's been used, not sure though. One thing I also don't know is what proper chain tension should be, I keep mine taut, but with some slack on the bottom, and I keep the oiler on max. Someone will hopefully add to this, and I may stand corrected, no expert, just sharing some of my experiences with it. I do however respect these things, they have no conscience !

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy