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You may have a gasket blown, or installed incorrectly. Some of these compressors use a fine silicone O-ring instead of gaskets, which harden and flatten out over time, allowing air to leak. Check to see if the small unloader valve (if yours has one) on the side of the pressure switch is leaking while running. If the valve plate broke and it ran awhile, the valve seat may be chewed up a bit, preventing proper sealing. There must be a check valve inline there somewhere, since reed valves will not close well enough to seal pressure inside the tank, and it needs to unload after shutdown to prevent stalling the motor on startup. There is an easy way to check the valve and the unloader. If the compressor has a shutoff switch on the pressure switch, turn it off while it is running. There should be a short blast of air, to show that the compressor is unloading, then there should be no air leaking, If there is, the check valve is shot. A bad check valve should not impede output with no load on the system, unless it causes enough blockage to prevent any air reaching the tank, which is not the case as you can still get 60 psi on the gauge. It will still pass air, and allow the compressor to reach cutout. Anyhow, there is enough load on the compressor to match its output at 60 psi. There is a leak in the system somewhere, or backflow into the pump (bad discharge valve finger, valve seat, or bent reed). Check any compression fittings on the discharge line as well, as they have a tendency to cut through the line after awhile, due to vibration, especially aluminum lines.
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