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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Car Question - Not tools...

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Howard H.

01-14-2006 19:43:51




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Hi Ya"ll -

I wasn"t sure where else to ask a question like this - haven"t found too many leads elsewhere...

I"ve got a 1997 Mercury Cougar car with about 180,000 miles on it.

It"s been a great car - no problems - until last night.

I was slowly backing out of a concrete drive and turned pretty sharp at very low speed - I heard a pop under the car, but couldn"t find anything wrong.

When I took off, the front-end was jumping as if I"d busted a tie rod end and a front wheel was flopping around (have had several of those happen on pickups and one on the truck out at the farm).

I limped it home - it steers fine going down the road, except for "jumping" around while backing up or turning at low speed - it feels a lot like turning sharp in a Suburban in 4-wheel drive.

I jacked it up and can find no looseness in either front wheel - can"t find any linkages loose or broken - the wheels turn exactly in tandem with each other, etc, but something is definitely loose...

I"m not sure if the steering wheel is tracking exactly where it did before while going straight, but I can"t get it to "jump another tooth" if the steering gear box is loose enough to allow that...

Any ideas on what else to check???


Thanks for any advice,
Howard H.

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Vern-MI

01-16-2006 13:24:39




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 Re: Car Question - Not tools... in reply to Howard H., 01-14-2006 19:43:51  
The '97 cougar is a rear wheel drive 3.8 liter with an 4R70W transmission and a 3.75 rear axle. It has a Modified McPherson front suspension which utilized a SLA (Single Lower Arm)design. The knuckle support was bolted, or clamped to the lower end of the strut. The spring applied pressure to the strut and reacted against the top of the tower in the front unibody "horns". There are top end bearings on the upper end of the struts and lower arm ball joints. Steering is accomplished using tie rod ends coupled with the tie rods coming directly out of the rack and pinion steering gear.

When you back up the toe in causes the wheels to pull away or steer in opposite directions from each other.

When you are turning the error in turning radius geometry from one side wheel to the other causes the wheels to also pull away or steer towards each other.

It is very likely that you have either one or both tie rod ends worn to the point that they pop in and out of the sockets. Jack up one front wheel and leave the other on the ground. Then try turning the wheel which is jacked up from SIDE TO SIDE and I think you will see the tie rod end pop in and out of the socket. These tie rods probably cost about $40 each and you can replace them yourself. After tie rod replacement take it somewhere and have an alignment done to reset the proper toe-in.

If that is not the problem then I would suspect the lower ball joint which supports the front end load. Those are pressed in and hard to change in your garage. You could remove the arm and have a auto machine shop do it if necessary. Nasty job without the right tools.

There are also bushings on the inner end of the SLA and on the front end of the SLA stabilizer bars which could be worn.

My money is on the tie rod ends as I have seen them go bad. They will get loose enough to pop out ogf the socket completely and the wheel will make an abrupt turn. Not nice at all.

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bradk

01-15-2006 07:38:09




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 Re: Car Question - Not tools... in reply to Howard H., 01-14-2006 19:43:51  
OK,First of all,the '97 mercury is front wheel drive.If you can find no obvious loose parts w/front end jacked up,I think you have a cv joint problem.
What are the condition of the boots?If there is one torn,it's probably the culprit.Grab the shaft that connects the inner & outer joints,and turn front & back,and up & down looking for any excessive play. let us know...~brad



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bradk

01-15-2006 09:47:32




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 Re: Car Question - Not tools... in reply to bradk, 01-15-2006 07:38:09  
Oops--It is a rear drive,I was thinking Sable.Look closely at the front stabilizer bar and links for breakage.~brad



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RandyBee

01-15-2006 06:06:59




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 Re: Car Question - Not tools... in reply to Howard H., 01-14-2006 19:43:51  
I think the Cougar is rear wheel drive. I may be way off base but it sounds like a bad front wheel bearing or ball joint. Sometimes they are hard to find without weight on the wheel. If your visual inspeciton of linkage and tie rods and such looks ok. Then check the ball joints and wheel bearings.



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Howard H.

01-15-2006 07:29:44




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 Re: Car Question - Not tools... in reply to RandyBee, 01-15-2006 06:06:59  

Yes - you are right - it is rear wheel drive.

It's pretty odd - while I had the front end jacked up, both wheels spun freely and smoothly, there wasn't any play while trying to move the wheels vertically or horizontally.

And while turning either wheel from side to side (as the steering wheel would), both wheels turn smoothly together.

HH



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RandyBee

01-15-2006 08:26:20




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 Re: Car Question - Not tools... in reply to Howard H., 01-15-2006 07:29:44  
This is the proper proceedure for checking the ball joints: Quote from Inside Line Forum
"To check for loose ball joints, raise the front end of the truck, and place a jackstand or floor jack under the lower A-arms to unload the spring pressure. The best way check for play in the joints put a long prybar under the tire and pull upward to see if the ball joint deflects. Expect a slight amount of movement, but if you can see the ball joint move, it has failed. The load-bearing ball joint takes the most abuse. Usually it�s the one in the control arm that locates the coil spring. In Fords, the upper arm supports the load. To check this type of suspension for a bad ball joint, make sure the suspension is in full droop, then use a prybar on the tire, as described above.The load bearing joint usually fails first, but you should always replace both. "

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Howard H.

01-17-2006 22:18:57




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 Re: Car Question - Not tools... in reply to RandyBee, 01-15-2006 08:26:20  
Hey Randy Bee -

Just a note to say thanks (and to all who offered bits of advice).

I finally found that the lower A-arm bolt in the frame had loosened on one wheel and was letting it pop back and forth about an inch.

I probably wouldn't have found it if you hadn't suggested jacking under the A-arm to loosen the spring!

Thanks,
HH



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T_Bone

01-15-2006 03:15:38




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 Re: Car Question - Not tools... in reply to Howard H., 01-14-2006 19:43:51  
Hi Howard,

Or it could be a U-Joint bound in one direction and not the other.

I fought a U-joint on a 79 T-Bird for 60k miles as the symptoms were my steering wheel would pulse when I applied the brakes. It was the front U-joint that caused the plusing.

T_Bone



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Charles (in GA)

01-14-2006 20:24:40




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 Re: Car Question - Not tools... in reply to Howard H., 01-14-2006 19:43:51  
Assuming it is a front drive, look at your CV joints, sounds like one popped out of joint when you backed in a tight turn. I had this happen with an Escort one time.

Charles



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Bob

01-14-2006 20:24:16




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 Re: Car Question - Not tools... in reply to Howard H., 01-14-2006 19:43:51  
With all the variations over the years, I'm not sure if that car is a front wheel drive, or not.

If it is a front wheel drive, likely you have a partially busted CV joint on one of the "halfshafts" that connect the transaxle to each front wheel.



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