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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

OverHead Hoist Question

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Chuck (VA)

01-06-2006 18:22:05

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Looking to build an overhead hoist, "fixed height gantry" type. NorthernTool shows using a 3" x 5" overhead beam in the catalog. Called local steel supplier and was told I must mean 3" x 5 lb/ft I-beam. Is this what I would need for safely holding a 2000 lbs payload if the beam had a 10 ft span?

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Joe(TX)

01-08-2006 18:08:59

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Re: OverHead Hoist Question in reply to Chuck (VA), 01-06-2006 18:22:05

What you need is a S5 x 10 lb/ft beam minimum. It is 5" x 3"wide. You can uses a larger beam. Do not use an W beam (sometimes calles an H beam). The flanges are not strong enough and the trolley is designed for the S type beam with the tapered flanges.

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Dave Sherburne,NY

01-07-2006 15:53:58

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Re: OverHead Hoist Question in reply to Chuck (VA), 01-06-2006 18:22:05

Might want an H beam instead of an I beam, depending on the trolley

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old

01-06-2006 21:14:46

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Re: OverHead Hoist Question in reply to Chuck (VA), 01-06-2006 18:22:05

Don't know if this will help you or not. I use an old I beam from a mobile home frame for my over head hoist frame. I have a 3 ton hoist on it and can lift a 3/4 ton pickup up to the point that I can remove all 4 tires with no problem. Thats putting the back bumper on the ground to lift the rear tires off the ground. Nice thing is that it didn't cost me any thing but gas to haul in an old burned out moblie home frame and a few hours work

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old

01-06-2006 21:13:39

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Re: OverHead Hoist Question in reply to Chuck (VA), 01-06-2006 18:22:05

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JMS/MN

01-10-2006 11:40:27

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Re: OverHead Hoist Question in reply to old, 01-06-2006 21:13:39

I've never seen a mobile home I or C beam that holds diddly squat- thin steel. Doesn't matter what size hoist you hang from it- does not increase the lift/carry capacity of the hoist. Capacity also depends on the span. When you lift that truck, with the bumper on the supporting blocks, you are not lifting the truck- you are lifting HALF of it. Well under a ton. Mobile home frames are junk when it comes to making a trailer or hoist from them.

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old

01-10-2006 11:50:05

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Re: OverHead Hoist Question in reply to JMS/MN, 01-10-2006 11:40:27

All the frames I have are 1/4 or 3/16 steel. As far as how I was lifting that truck I hooked the hoist to the front bumper and lifted it up high enough to put the rear bumper on the ground, no blocks and lifted the rear tires off the ground. My shop building is framed with mobile home frames and my new shed is also made with them. The span on my hoist frame is around 20 foot and I have lifted any thing I have ever wanted to with it and not so much as any give to the set up. Its been set up that way for 10-15 years and is still doing all I need it to do. Other then the time I forgot to unhook it from my dump truck and bent the first beam I had in there. Since then I have added another beam to the shop and the old one is still there and I use both of them but the one I bent is chained to the upper parts of the building

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dan_41jdh

01-06-2006 18:59:36

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Re: OverHead Hoist Question in reply to Chuck (VA), 01-06-2006 18:22:05

Chuck, sounds too small. Your steel supplier is probably quoting an S3x5 (industry designation for an "I-beam" 3" deep, and weight of 5 lb/ft - not to be confused with the more common "Wide-flange" beam). That S3x5 would be 3" overall depth, and would only be about 2-1/2" clearance between flanges, probably not even enough room to fit the trolley wheels of your hoist.

If you're referring to Northern Tool's "Vestil Gantry Crane - 2000 lb, 10ft x 10ft, they describe the beam as 5" H by 3" W. I don't have any of my reference material here at home so I can't check to see what that beam might actually be. I'll be in the office tomorrow, and I'll do a quick calculation and select a few appropriate beams for you. I'll post back then.

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Chuck (VA)

01-06-2006 20:10:30

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Re: OverHead Hoist Question in reply to dan_41jdh, 01-06-2006 18:59:36

I have a 40" steel shipping container. My thought was to have someone weld a 12" long x 1/4"(wall thickeness) tubular bracket on top the corner post. I would slide the beam into the bracket and build a leg assembly to support the other end.

That way I can take it when I move.

Does this sound feasible?

thanks for your help.

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Slowpoke

01-09-2006 01:29:58

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Re: OverHead Hoist Question in reply to Chuck (VA), 01-06-2006 20:10:30

You might want to measure the total height of the container and welded bracket, then add the trailer height. A trucker could refuse to move it if it's close to the clearance limit for bridges.
You would have to cut the bracket off first.
BTW, does your container have a "whirlybird" on the roof??
I'm trying to figure out how to mount a turbine ventilator on a corrugated roof. The guys at the container sales yard said to just smash the ventilater flange down into the corrugations and use lots of sealer. I don't like that idea 'cause it will distort the ventilater base and probably leak. Has anyone a better way?

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Chuck (VA)

01-09-2006 04:22:08

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Re: OverHead Hoist Question in reply to Slowpoke, 01-09-2006 01:29:58

I have two that I will be installing(opposite corners for cross ventilation). Had a sheet metal shop make two 90 deg. elbow flange to fit the whirlybird base and to fit over the existing side vent covers. I will remove the vent covers and bolt they should bolt right up.

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Slowpoke

01-09-2006 22:50:03

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Re: OverHead Hoist Question in reply to Chuck (VA), 01-09-2006 04:22:08

My top vents are miniscule and have a welded rain guard covering them. I'm thinking about making a form that matches the corrugations and pouring melted old tire weights in it. The vent base could then be mounted flat and a hole drilled thru each each filler for a bolt. A little sealer between things should do the trick. It takes 4 fillers for a 12" vent. With a flat roof container, there's no problem but I just can't find a 2" high base for a flat roof.

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dan_41jdh

01-07-2006 12:33:14

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Re: OverHead Hoist Question in reply to Chuck (VA), 01-06-2006 20:10:30

Chuck,
First, let"s address the beam. I"m sure the beam your steel supplier was quoting was an S3x5.7. That is definitely too small for the application. I"m also sure that Northern Tool is using an S5x10 (exterior dimensions are 5" deep x 2.94" wide). However, that beam is right on the margin for a 2000LB hoist on a 10FT span. It would be OK if the beam material was ASTM A992 or ASTM A572 Gr. 50. But it might also be ASTM A36 which would be too weak. Here are some beam sizes that are suitable for a 10FT span, and using a fairly lightweight 1 Ton Cap. hoist and trolley (say 150LB max), with little or no SIDE PULL on the hoist:

S6x12.5
S7x15.3
W6x12 (6.03" deep x 4.00" wide)
W6x16 (6.28" deep x 4.03" wide)
W6x15 (5.99" deep x 5.99" wide)

Jim"s comments below are good. Few non-technical people recognize the important effect of tip-loading on beam flanges. However, in your application, flange thickness doesn"t need to be quite that thick. I believe Jim is referring to a W6x20 which has a 0.365" thick flange. That beam would certainly work, but it weighs (and costs) more than those described above.

I"m not sure I follow your description above. Do you mean you have a 40 FT shipping container? And then you want to weld a pocket or sleeve of some type to the corner of the container, and let that point be a support for one end of your gantry? If so, sure. Those containers are quite strong. I"d be concerned about the details of the sleeve and exactly how it would be mounted, as well as the need for a cross-pin or something else to ensure the beam couldn"t accidentally slide out. And, I"d be concerned about a single-post support on the opposite end. Jim"s suggestion of a triangular A-frame would be much more stable.

Sorry about the delay in responding. Good luck with your project.

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Chuck (VA)

01-07-2006 18:24:10

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Re: OverHead Hoist Question in reply to dan_41jdh, 01-07-2006 12:33:14

Thanks for the response. I was planning on having the tubular pocket welded on top of the corner post on the shipping container. Drill a 3/4" hole through the tube and beam and bolt the two together using a hardened bolt. Thought this 12" pocket would limit lateral movement and keep the beam from sliding out. The end support was in question, and I think the "A" frame is the way to go. I wasn"t sure how much deflection and twist the beam would have. Everyone"s comments have been greatly appreciated.

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janicholson

01-06-2006 18:46:33

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Re: OverHead Hoist Question in reply to Chuck (VA), 01-06-2006 18:22:05

I would use a 6WF beam on that span. it is about 6" tall, and about 6" wide. It is point loading that is the real issue. The top and botton flanges of the beam should measure ~.400" or thicker. The 4 diagonal braces to the legs should be 30" out on the beam. The main legs (2" Schedule 40 black iron minimum) should have an A form (like a swing set). The diagonal braces should go (two on each end) to one spot on the underside of the bottom flange, and to each leg. Hard Urethane wheels with locks, are a nice touch.
The triangle is the only strong form in this structure.
I hope this helps. Be safe.
JimN

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