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Blasting Cabinet

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Bill Oakes

02-13-2001 05:18:51

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I am just getting started in the tractor restoring hobby. I am thinking that a blasting cabinet would be a great help in cleaning up all these smaller parts. Have looked at a few but most appear to be cheap junk. I found TP Tools in Canfield, Ohio. They seem to have better quality cabinets. Anyone have experience with TP? or blasting cabinets in general? I could use, and would appreciate, any advice I can get from you all. Thanks, Bill

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Roger Van Houten

02-19-2001 08:09:38

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Re: Blasting Cabinet in reply to Bill Oakes, 02-13-2001 05:18:51

They are a very good company. I've delt with them for many years and have stood behind their products. I've never gotten anything shoddy from them. In regard to the cabinet I did build mine from plywood with the inner walls sheathed in sheetmetal and has worked very well for years. I use TIP's siphon gun with the carbide nozzle as even anything else wears too quickly. I use a dryer blower which works reasonably well but bought TIP's vacume unit (not installed yet). I would not hesitate to use their cabinets if you don't want to go to the trouble of building your own. I also have their prssure sandblaster which is great for larger parts.

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Scott

02-14-2001 15:04:18

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Re: Blasting Cabinet in reply to Bill Oakes, 02-13-2001 05:18:51

I am in the process of finishing my '41 Ford 9n, and I used my blasting cabinet constantly. I would put it at the top of my "gotta have" list, right behind videos and service, parts and assembly manuals.

I went to The local farm supply for mine. It is metal, about 30" wide, 18" high, and 18" deep. The whole upper portion of the top (plexi) opens up for access. It cost me about 90 bucks.

Things to think about-

1) The fluorescent bulbs don't work. After about 10 hours the lens cover was so pitted you couldn't see your hand. I rewired w/ two regular exterior bulb sockets (mounted insite) and use 2 100 watt bulbs. You might get a tan, but you can see what you are working on.

2) Get an extra pkg of clear view window covers. A lot cheaper than replacing the plexi. Make sure the covers are sealed well all around, they will fill w/ sand and be useless.

3) To keep the dust to a minimum, I sealed EVERY joint with silicone as soon as I got home. Add another layer of weatherstrip to the window and it should seal well.

4) My case came with a filter mounted to the exhaust hole. I removed it, hooked up a small (2 gal) shop vac with the tossable bags inside. You may get some sand in the vac, but it is worth it to be able to toss it without making a mess. With the vac running, it sucks the lid down to where it is hard to open. Keeps things clean!

5) After a few months, my gloves developed small holes where the mounting rings are. This is a great time to blast throttle rods and anything else too long to fit in the cabinet. Just stuff them in the holes and blast away. Replace the gloves when needed. With the vacuum, I never had a problem with dust getting out.

6) I live in a dry climate. If you go with a metal cabinet, Ground it! There's nothing like the shock you will get in your stomach from the static electricity!

Having the ability to blast a piece in 10 minutes without suiting up is fantastic. I did my head, exhaust manifold, dash, axle parts, and anything else that would fit in it. With the vacuum, you can't even find dust in the shop, least of all floating in you beer next to the blaster.

My nickles worth!

Scott

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Al English

02-17-2001 09:09:56

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Re: Re: Blasting Cabinet in reply to Scott, 02-14-2001 15:04:18

Hi Scott, One comment, put one of your disposable window covers over the plactic or glass lens for the light. If your window covers are too small the material can be purchased from plastic supply companies. It is called acetate(clear). Clear Mylar will also work, but it is more expensive, and doesn't last any longer...Al English

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Paul

02-14-2001 07:33:34

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Re: Blasting Cabinet in reply to Bill Oakes, 02-13-2001 05:18:51

Couple of nice looking blasting cabinets in the new issue of Farm Show magazine. One made out of an old fuel tank, and the other made from a washer or dryer cabinet which appears to funnel the blast material back for re-use. The washer cabinet was hinged so the whole side would open up for access to get larger pieces into it.

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Francis Z Beringer

02-13-2001 18:45:11

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Re: Blasting Cabinet in reply to Bill Oakes, 02-13-2001 05:18:51

Made my sand blast cabinet out of an oval fuel oil barrell. Cut it down to 36 inches long and put a 20 X 24 door in one end . Cut a 6 X 18 hole for the viewing glass and two six inch holes for the gloves. You can get the used gloves from the power company as they dicard them when they get a pin hole. You can lenghten them out with a piece of inter tube and a metal band. The local hardware store cuts the 6 x 18 glass from their used glass and the price is very reasonible. Sloped the bottom of the barrel to the center with cement.(Makes the sand slide better). It does the job and is much easier than welding in material. for a gun I use the Speede air unit that W.W. Grainger carries. It is also sold by Sears and Wards. Use a six inch squirrel cage blower to exhaust the tank to outside the building. Works real fine.
Any guestions give a holler.

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PAUL8N

02-13-2001 07:48:47

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Re: Blasting Cabinet in reply to Bill Oakes, 02-13-2001 05:18:51

I WOULD PROBABLY BUILD A BOOTH MYSELF. YOU CAN MAKE IT ANY SIZE YOU WANT AND SWEEP THE SAND OFF THE FLOOR, SCREEN IT AND REUSE IT. HELPS FOR LARGER PIECES.

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Jerry Blliler

02-14-2001 09:49:22

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Re: Re: Blasting Cabinet in reply to PAUL8N, 02-13-2001 07:48:47

One to think of , the sand still gets everywhere! Just a film of the dust at the opposite corner of the shop can wreck havoc with a "clean" project that you are not working on. Cost a friend a 302 ford motor he was overhauling in my shop. Wound up spinning a main bearing in a "new" motor becaulse of the fine grit. Could see the scratches in the bearings! OOPS! Maybe a vaccume would help this? We roll the cabnet outdoors now.JB

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