Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Tool Talk Discussion Forum

OT WELL PRESSURE TANK ?????

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
lenray

12-06-2005 18:03:53




Report to Moderator

Have a 200 ft. deep 5in. well at a rental property.
This is a mobile home and when the well was put in the well man buried the pressure tank about 5.5 deep about 4 ft. out from the well.
I was worried that the tank would need air sometime so I dug it up and put into a heated dog type house on top of the ground.
Have two questions---the pressure switch is above ground and a wire with fluid in it runs down along the well to the 5.5 ft depth and attaches to the 5 in. plastic well casing.
Now that I have the pressure tank above ground can I hook up the pressure switch to the pressure tank. I have never seen this other kind of hook up. The way it is now is the tank is above ground and this switch thing is still down 5.5ft.
The pump pressure is surging inside the mobile--is my air pressure in the tank low???
Thanks for any and all help.

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Gary Schafer

12-07-2005 17:57:30




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT WELL PRESSURE TANK ????? in reply to lenray, 12-06-2005 18:03:53  
Not sure of your current situation, sounds like you now have a new tank and the only problem is that the pump pressure is not where you would like it??

If the pump is surging on and off your tank is probably water logged. This causes the system pressure to build up almost immediately to the pump cut off pressure. As soon as the pump cuts off the system pressure drops and the pump starts again.

You can also have another problem with the pump cycling rapidly if the pressure switch is too far from the tank and the supply line to the tank is small. In this case the pressure at the switch builds up faster than it does at the tank, the switch thinks the tank is full and shuts off the pump. As the pump shuts off the pressure drops and the pump starts again. I had this problem on my boat which had a large pump with the pressure switch at the pump and the pressure tank about 15 feet away. The pump was too large for the size line to the tank.

You can adjust the pressure switch to cut in and out where you want it to provided that the pump is capable of the desired pressure.

Your empty tank pressure should be a couple of pounds less than the pump cut on pressure or the pump will never start.

If you have a tank with no bladder it will work the same as one with a bladder if you put the proper pressure in it with the tank empty of water. If you get too much air pressure in a tank without a bladder it will adjust itself after a few pump cycles. If the pressure is too high the tank will run out of water and push out some of the air to the faucets before the pump starts. If the air pressure is right the pump will start just before the tank runs out of water and no air will escape. That is why the air pressure should be set just below the cut in pressure of the pump.

A tank with no bladder in it will eventually become water logged over a period of time. The water will absorb the air slowly. About once a year or so you have to drain the water completely and repressurize the tank with air. Of course if the schrader valve is leaking it will fill up with water in a short time. You could also add air once in awhile without draining the tank and let it self adjust as above provided it is not too waterlogged before you add air.

A tank that originally had a bladder and the bladder breaks can still be used the same as a tank without a bladder. No need to throw it away. Just pressurize it as explained above and go on your merry way! :>)
You will now of course have to service it every year or so where as the tank with a good bladder should be mostly trouble free.
The only difference with the bladder is that the water does not absorb the air over a period of time so you do not need to attend to it as often.

Regards
Gary

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
lenray

12-07-2005 12:44:11




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT WELL PRESSURE TANK ????? in reply to lenray, 12-06-2005 18:03:53  
Thanks fellas for the help. When this well was put in because it is a mobile the well man buried the pressure tank in the run to thew house about 5.5 ft. deep.
I wqs afraid I would have this problem someday so a year ago last summer I dug it up and got it on top of the ground.
The tank was clear full of water. Got it drained and put 30 lbs.o of air into the tank and see it was leaking a little amt. at the schrader air valve--air leaking out.
Is there a chance that the schrader valve just leaked all of the air out over say 6-8 years and let it fill with water???
I put 30 lbs. of air in a new tank and adj. the settings but it seems to cycle between 20 and 40--was hoping for 30-50.
Again thanks for the help and any more suggestions will be very welcome.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Richard H.

12-07-2005 14:36:50




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT WELL PRESSURE TANK ????? in reply to lenray, 12-07-2005 12:44:11  
Lenray, 20-40 is factory setting. You will have to crank the adj. nut in the switch to reach 50 psi. The air psi in the tank should match your cut-in. pressure. Also the closer your pressure switch to the tank the better to be accurate and more precise pressure to avoid contact wear.
Richard



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
lenray

12-07-2005 15:37:03




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT WELL PRESSURE TANK ????? in reply to Richard H., 12-07-2005 14:36:50  
Please see if ya can help somemore.
This is a 5 in. dia. plastic well casing.
The bladder pressure tank WAS buried down 5.5 ft.
The pressure switch is above ground fastened to well.
A hollow line with fluid in it runs down from the pressure switch to 5.5 ft. below ground and fastens someway to the 5 in. plastic casing.
Originally the pressure tank was teed into the line running from the well to the mobile out about 4-5 ft. from the well casing.
I have dug up the pressure tank and have it above ground very close to the well casing.
HERE IS THE QUESTION---the line from the pressure switch goes down along well casing 5.5ft. and hooks into the plastic casing with an adaptor of some sort--saw it but don't know what it is.
SHOULD I eliminate the present pressure switch and just put it on where the water line comes out of the pressure tank.?? Hoping this is somewhat clear as I have explained it---should have a pic

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Richard H.

12-07-2005 16:52:47




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT WELL PRESSURE TANK ????? in reply to lenray, 12-07-2005 15:37:03  
That would be my attack, there is a fitting you can get that screws on to the tank. It has.. a hole for pressure guage,one for the switch,water in and out and T"s into the tank. Brass fitting about 14 in. long. You may wanna try this Site.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
jdemaris

12-07-2005 06:12:45




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT WELL PRESSURE TANK ????? in reply to lenray, 12-06-2005 18:03:53  
Sounds like what Keith and Brad told you is right-on - going by your description. I just want to add, that many of the older tanks did NOT have a rubber bladder separating the water from air. Some had nothing, some had a floating wafer, etc. These older type tanks used an air-injection/air-charger system, sometimes with a float-valve to prevent them from getting water-logged. From my experience, the modern tanks with the rubber bag inside are more trouble free - but once they go bad - you buy a new tank. Water won't compress, air will - thus the reason the tank must have air in it that acts as a spring - applying pressure against the water all the time. So, when you turn the faucet, it is the "air spring" pressure that gives you water pressure most of the time. When the tank gets waterlogged, and the "air spring" no longer exists, the pump has to turn on every time a faucet is turned on. This will make the pump burn out pretty fast. I don't know how cold it gets where you are. Here, in central New York, we get -30F at times. Drilled wells used to be buried below the frost-line - but the tank and pressure switch would be in the house cellar (if one existed). This created the problem of having to excavate whenever there was a pump problem. Also, pit-wells were deemed unhealthy prone to ground-water pollution. Thus, the "pitless" adapter went into use - being a two piece adapter that installs below the frost line, but allows the well casing to extend out the ground - and allows pulling the well pump from above ground without having to unhook any pipes. Our original drilled well was put in ca. 1959, and it was a "pit-well" and buried. I had a miserable time finding it, digging up half our back yard in frozen ground. When I did locate it, I installed a pitless adapter and extended the well casing two feet above ground level.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
rc in ct

12-07-2005 04:44:50




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT WELL PRESSURE TANK ????? in reply to lenray, 12-06-2005 18:03:53  
Watch the pressure gauge on the pressure switch.
Could be your low pressure setting (pressure switch) is set lower than the pressure in your tank. (Does that make any sense?)
Typically you set the pressure in the tank 2psi lower than the low pressure switch setting.

To check pressure in the tank you need to release the pressure in the system. Otherwise you're measuring what the water pressure is.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
rc in ct

12-07-2005 11:00:09




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT WELL PRESSURE TANK ????? in reply to rc in ct, 12-07-2005 04:44:50  
If you're not in a real hurry ask the question over at>Link

>Link



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
David - OR

12-07-2005 02:59:07




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT WELL PRESSURE TANK ????? in reply to lenray, 12-06-2005 18:03:53  
I would recommend a check valve at the pump, a check valve every 100 feet of rise after that, and a check valve right at the inlet of the pressure tank (one valve can serve both roles at once). In your case you would need three total; one at the pump, one at 100 feet above the pump, and one at the pressure tank.

The pressure switch then goes after the last check valve, close to the tank. This way, the pressure switch is monitoring the house water pressure and the bad effects of any pressure leakage back into the well are minimized.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Keith-OR

12-06-2005 19:11:01




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT WELL PRESSURE TANK ????? in reply to lenray, 12-06-2005 18:03:53  
Yep, pressure switch doesn't care where it get it's pressure from. Sounds like your tank is getting water logged, if pressure is surging. Need to put some more air in your tank. Should be a tag on your tank on how much air pressure need to be in the bladder if you have a capacitive storage tank. It should also tell you how to check the air pressure. Mine I have to shut off pump, open a valve untill all water is out of my tanks then use tire gage to measure the air in the bladder....HTH probably as clear as mud.

Keith

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
bradk

12-07-2005 05:52:27




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT WELL PRESSURE TANK ????? in reply to Keith-OR, 12-06-2005 19:11:01  
My experience;if you need to add air to the tank,it's junk.The bladder has ruptured & tank needs to be replaced.Sister in-law has to fill hers up w/air every other day.~brad



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
P,S. check valve

12-06-2005 19:21:08




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT WELL PRESSURE TANK ????? in reply to Keith-OR, 12-06-2005 19:11:01  
If your pump is kicking on and off, you could have lost the check valve on top of your pump also. I lost mine 10 years ago. Was not about to pull pump just to put in a check valve,as my pump is 180ft down at the end of 2 inch galv. pipe, so I plumbed in a 2 inch brass check valve above ground.

Keith....



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Martini

12-09-2005 10:22:22




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT WELL PRESSURE TANK ????? in reply to P,S. check valve, 12-06-2005 19:21:08  
Don't understand the reason for check valves?
If water leaks back due to a bad foot valve,
with a check valve you will end up with air in
the line below the check valve, so you will start sucking air at some point and lose
pump prime? Or not.
Will a real plumber stand up here and clear the mystery please and thankyou.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy