Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Tool Talk Discussion Forum

drills, one more time

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
mwkellner

11-08-2005 10:00:55




Report to Moderator

Thank y'all for amswering my questions so thoroughly. I have now decided (with your help) that I only need a fractional set of drill bits, and will hold off on the sharpener for now. After looking online at several sources, I am confused about all of the different finishes etc. I know from my last post that HSS is good, but what about bright finish, M2 steel, TiN coating, and purple/bronze. Which of these things just sounds good in a catalog and which are worth it. Is cobalt worth the extra money? I'm sorry to be obsessing about this but I want to find what's good for not alot of money (like everyone else). I would like to buy something that will last and be decent. Thanks again.

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Nolan

11-09-2005 03:23:26




Report to Moderator
 Re: drills, one more time in reply to mwkellner, 11-08-2005 10:00:55  
Way back in the day I used to work on the power tool accessory test lab of B&D. A major portion of our work was testing various drill bits. As a general statement, coatings are a gimmick on drill bits and make them duller out of the box than a fresh, sharp, steel bit.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
john d

11-08-2005 17:59:27




Report to Moderator
 Re: drills, one more time in reply to mwkellner, 11-08-2005 10:00:55  
Get the bright finish HSS drills. Look for some that are made in the USA. If you buy a 1/16" to 1/2" set, go ahead and buy another set of 1/16" to 1/4", as those are the ones you'll break.
Some drills that have given me good service at work and at home were made by or sold under the brand names of: Precision Drill, Vermont American, DeWalt, Porter Cable, Sears Craftsman.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
mace56

11-08-2005 19:38:47




Report to Moderator
 Re: drills, one more time in reply to john d, 11-08-2005 17:59:27  
I tool vendor told me once that most of the real high tech stuff is really only for drill presses with controlled alignment and feed rates. Too brittle for general use.
Same guy sold us a mag base drill that chucked up carbide 'hole saws' for taking divots out of hardened truck frames, impressive.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
wdtom

11-08-2005 17:36:13




Report to Moderator
 Re: drills, one more time in reply to mwkellner, 11-08-2005 10:00:55  
The different finishes are supposed to help with certain materials. On a production setup where you are cutting with coolant and automatic feed, and time is important, well maybe. For the money just get "bright" HSS. As for sharpening, get yourself a drill point gauge. Hold a 1/2" drill up to a grinder or belt sander and see how to get the angle. Note that the cutting edge needs to be above the trailing edge so it can cut in to the material being cut. Note this on a new drill while holding it, point up straight in front of you and slowly rotateing it while you study the angles you will be trying to grind. After you think you have it all down and have held the drill at the proper angle on the grinder or belt, turn on the power and try to duplicate the angles. Check with the drill point gaugh for angle and length of cutting edge. Cutting edges need to be the same angle, a little different than the gauge isn't important, but the same length is,or you will drill bigger holes than the drill. The "relief" or "backing off" as the English call it needs to be there or the drill won't cut. A sharp drill is important, a chip will cause it to run hot and if you are running it a little fast it will soon burn out. A drill needs to be kept cutting. Slower speed and high pressure is better than faster speed and light pressure. You want to see the chips comming out of the hole. A little cutting oil helps too, any oil is better than none. Learn to sharpen by hand so you will not be dependant on your Drill Doctor. These work very well some of the time for a varying amount of time, for some people. Other times they don't work well for long. Better to just learn. Use the money you save on not buying the Drill Dr. to buy a nice drill point gauge and some flea market drill bits to practice on. As Forrest Addy said in an article on this very subject in a recent Home Shop Machinist, "They make drills long so aprentices can practice sharpening them".

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
JA from VA

11-08-2005 18:00:46




Report to Moderator
 Re: drills, one more time in reply to wdtom, 11-08-2005 17:36:13  
Hello, Don't know wdtom but listen to him.If
he isn't a machinist then he knows the game.I agree with him and what he is telling you. I have thirty years
in the trade and with practice and
his advice anyone can resharpen any
drill.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
wdtom

11-09-2005 17:53:18




Report to Moderator
 Re: drills, one more time in reply to JA from VA, 11-08-2005 18:00:46  
JA,

Thanks for the complement. I am somewhat of a machinist, carpenter, plumber, welder, and on and on. Profession is maintenance mechanic. I have a couple of lathes, milling machine, and a few other power tools im my basement/shop. What I said about drills is learned from 30 years working various jobs, and doing for myself. I am not really expert at any one thing, but get by at a lot of different trades.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
wdtom

11-08-2005 17:50:09




Report to Moderator
 Re: drills, one more time in reply to wdtom, 11-08-2005 17:36:13  
I forgot to say that unless you areusing a very fine wheel or belt, stone the edge a few strokes to remove the grinding marks and leave a nice smooth edge, itwill cut better and last longer than a rough edge,same goes for lathe and boring bar tool bits, stone them smooth when you are done grinding unless you are finishing up with a really fine belt or wheel.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Midwest redneck

11-08-2005 15:36:20




Report to Moderator
 Re: drills, one more time in reply to mwkellner, 11-08-2005 10:00:55  
The best for the money is HSS (heat treated tool steel) The next best is HSS with Titanium Nitride coating The next best is M-42 cobalt with Tin Nitride coating. The next best to that is Carbide with Tin Nit. coating. (I dont like carbide drills except for drilling into hardened tool steel.) I buy all my drills from Production tool 248-585-4400 or J-L ind. 800-521-9520 or Wright tool 248-643-6666. Hope this helps.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
JT

11-08-2005 11:24:21




Report to Moderator
 Re: drills, one more time in reply to mwkellner, 11-08-2005 10:00:55  
If you want to spend some good money on drill bits, call Max Winters. He runs Winter's Drill Bit City in Minnesota. I found him at a steam show in Jacksonville, IL, bought his story and have not regretted it since. he has excellant bits, they hold a good edge, have reodered from him also, then found him up in Mt. Pleasant, IA this year, had to replace a few broken bits. He is not cheap, but Max has the best bits I have found in years. He does not have a website I know of. His phone number is 800-950-3938. He is worth contacting if you want real good bits. Had a self tapping bolt broke off in a tranny case yesterday, these bits drilled this hardened bolt out like it was mild steel.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Coloken

11-08-2005 10:34:09




Report to Moderator
 Re: drills, one more time in reply to mwkellner, 11-08-2005 10:00:55  
As far as I am concerned, the finish is just BS. Most are cheap drills and they need some thing to brag about. Now then, when we talk about good, quality drills, there is a use for things like tin coating. My limited experience with cobalt drills is that they are a notch harder and better than a standard HSS. Take a poor drill and no mater what you color it, it is still a bad drill. I have used China made drills for 40 years on the farm with good luck. But now in the last few years I can't trust any drill unless it is american and 20 dollars each. Friend is waiting for that road show company to come back so he can give them back their drills. First drills I every saw that you could bend when drilling wood. Yes, they were bronze colored.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy