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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Sharpening drills and Thank You

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mwkellner

11-07-2005 09:04:47

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Thanks alot for all of your responses about drill bits. You amswered all of my questions about letter and gague drills. What about a drill bit sharpener? I saw "drill doctor" on TV. Are there any sharpeners that actually work for not alot of money? I doubt that I would be able to do it on a grinding wheel (maybe with LOTS of practice). I am going to search this afternoon on the internet, Do you have any that you have used and like?

Thanks again,
Martin

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Nolan

11-09-2005 03:19:16

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Re: Sharpening drills and Thank You in reply to mwkellner, 11-07-2005 09:04:47

Of any of the sharpeners I"ve used, the Drill Doctor is far and away the best and easiest.

The base model is pretty cheap, and a fine buy for most folks. If you don"t plan on sharpening 1/2" bits and larger, and don"t need two different angle setting, save yourself some money and buy the base model on sale.

Supposedly the DD has been redesigned to better handle the small bits. That"s good, because trying to sharping bits down below 1/8" or so become progresively more difficult to do.

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Hobo,NC

11-07-2005 17:43:13

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Re: Sharpening drills and Thank You in reply to mwkellner, 11-07-2005 09:04:47

I brought a Drill Doctor when Thay fist came out seems like it Wuz $150.00 it has paid fer its self a few times. They are cheaper now and I have not had to buy enny bits except the ones I broke in 10 to 15 years. Its hard to beat a sharp bit, I did git lucky and got a DAREX drill sharpner At a auction, they sell fer $2000.00 are more. I paid big money fer it and got sum strang looks, its the real deal and its paid fer its self in lost time useing a dull bit or being able to sharpin a old bit and git the job done. I know how to sharp'in a bit on a grinder but not as good as the bit sharpner unless its fer a special cut I need to make like a left hand cut to back a bolt out. My dad wuz a Tool and Die maker like hiz dad so I did pic up a few tricks, only wish I had took time to learn sum more. I wanted to be a Mechanic No thats not the rite werd "Teknish'un what yer call us to day, I like Mechanic better.

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JMS/MN

11-07-2005 16:57:52

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Re: Sharpening drills and Thank You in reply to mwkellner, 11-07-2005 09:04:47

Drill doctor might be ok if you want to spend bucks, but just buy a ten dollar drill gauge and have amachinist teach you how to use it. Ron's idea with the welded nuts to get the angle is fine, but a gauge will give you numbers to go by while grinding. Remember to grind off the short side, not the long side- that makes the short side longer. Other suggestion about grinding the side that cuts more is not usually right, but under certain conditions, could be. No absolute to go by. Get the gauge and a bit of training- no need to spend big bucks to sharpen a bit. Grind each side to the same dimension, angle, back slope, and you will see two even curls coming off the bit.

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Ron in Nebr

11-07-2005 15:55:42

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Re: Sharpening drills and Thank You in reply to mwkellner, 11-07-2005 09:04:47

See if you can find an experienced machinist in your area and have them show you. Once you see the way it's properly done on a grinder, it'll be pretty easy. A teacher I had at my automotive tech school showed me, and even though my brother bought us a drill doctor, I always use the grinder and in my opinion get a better cutting drill when I'm done.

If you don't have or don't want to buy an angle guage, a trick is to take two regular six-sided hex nuts(1/2", 3/8", whatever) and hold two of the flat sides together. The angle of the two sides below is the angle you want the tip of the drill to be. Hope that made sense!

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also

11-07-2005 16:06:22

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Re: Sharpening drills and Thank You in reply to Ron in Nebr, 11-07-2005 15:55:42

When working in a machine shop for years I learned this little "trick" when sharpening big drills. After sharpening as good as I could by sight I'd start drilling (perhaps on a piece of scrap). I'd see if both side of the drill were cutting equally. Often just one side was doing the cutting, which causes a drill to wobble and drill oversize. While the drill is cutting, shut off the machine and see which side is cutting more. Mark that side and grind it a little more. After a couple tries I could get them cutting properly. Another thing- be careful to not overheat the drill either while sharpening or drilling. Used motor oil works fine while drilling.

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john d

11-07-2005 11:37:58

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Re: Sharpening drills and Thank You in reply to mwkellner, 11-07-2005 09:04:47

Drill Doctor will do a decent job, and produce a point that's acceptable to most people for most work. Those who have spent lots of time in the machining trade will likely do as well or better by hand on a grinder.
If you want to learn to sharpen them by hand, get a drill gauge that lets you check the angle as you work, get a magnifying lens, and learn on something 1/2" or so in diameter. The little ones are tough to do.
Wear goggles!

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Richard Henley

11-07-2005 15:05:48

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Re: Sharpening drills and Thank You in reply to john d, 11-07-2005 11:37:58

John, I used to be good a hand grinding and then my eyes kinda went sour. I use my wood table sander now, the round wheel on the side of it. Takes a little set-up but I tilt the table and use the adjustable T- square and it turns into a coumpound grinder, and a lot steadier than what I could ever do free hand. Magnifiying glass a must.. Richard

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deadeye

11-10-2005 01:59:22

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Re: Sharpening drills and Thank You in reply to Richard Henley, 11-07-2005 15:05:48

I used to sharpen with a grinder before my eyes got bad. I would always use two threaded nuts laying on the bench point to point for checking the angles. You can use different sizes accordingly for different size bits. I now have a drill doctor with two sizes of chucks. It really works great. Best thing since bread and butter was invented....deadeye

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Slowpoke

11-15-2005 01:21:26

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Re: Sharpening drills and Thank You in reply to deadeye, 11-10-2005 01:59:22

Whatever happened to the "General" type drill holder that bolted to the bench at the side of the grinding wheel? No one ever mentions it. The drill was laid in the V channel, adjusted to come up against the wheel side and then moved back and forth to sharpen one edge at a time.

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