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Weld question for T Bone

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Grove r

01-31-2001 06:19:49




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Would like T Bones expert advice on welding a broken bolster on an IH 806. Broke one of the mounting lugs off due to the use of the wrong mounting bolts, someone used studs and nuts in place of allen head capscrews. Did successfuly build one, but would like to know the possibilitys, and proceedures to repair the broken one, the repair weld would be app. 3/4" by 4" long. Used a 225 AMP Airco buzz box to fabricate the new one, now have 1965 Lincoln DC machine, which should give me greater welding flexability.

Have realy enjoyed the comments on these boards, very knowledgeable people. Thanks in advance, REL

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T_Bone

01-31-2001 09:18:57




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 Re: Weld question for T Bone in reply to Grove r, 01-31-2001 06:19:49  
Hi REL, I'll take it your working on the non 4wd bolster. First I would cut a 1/2" or 3/4" pipe spacer to fit inside where the axle tube goes on the bolster and run a piece of althread thru where the axle pivot pin goes thru the bolster using nuts and flat washers. Thats to keep the spacing at the correct distance during preping and welding. Make this spacer accurate so there is no inward or outward pressure on the bolster frame.

I would next make another flat 1/2"+ plate for realigning the broken lug again making a tight fit for alignment and without any stress to either piece. Do these two steps before any joint prep so you can accurately realign the parts.

Joint prep: Look and see which side will be the easiest to weld from with the above welding jigs in place as this side will be welded "last". Then clean the surface on both sides 1" on either side of the joint, v-notch the hardest side first but only to less than 1/2 of the total joint thickness and not very wide, reassemle the bolster and broken piece in the welding jig and after careful alignment heat with a torch to get off all lube oils on both sides to be welded, tack weld on both sides on 1" centers, clean the tacks on the side to be welded first, then weld the hardest side, let cool for 10 minutes or so.

Then v-notch the easy side at a depth to where you see the weld you just put in with making sure you remove all intraped slag (looks dull & dark), then weld and let cool slowly. Only after the bolster is cool to the touch do you remove the welding jigs.

I would use 7018, 7024 or 7014 in that order and since your using a small machine, consider 3/32" rod for the fist couple passes or all the way.

If your welding where you have "pealers", thats where the slag peals off the weld surface by it's self as your welding, then your weld joint will be pretty clean but do look for slag and keep the joint clean by chiping and grinding. When you have pealers, your welding is perfect, rod speed, heat range, toe of weld full with no undercut, face is smooth, bead to proper width.

T_Bone

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Grove r

01-31-2001 15:27:20




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 Re: Re: Weld question for T Bone in reply to T_Bone, 01-31-2001 09:18:57  
That will be a tremendous help, T Bone, muchly appreciated. I will weld the broken one up, in case my fabricated one does fail, so far it seems to be doing quite well, but..... Thanks again, REL.



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