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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

rebuilding a jeep clutch master cylinder problem

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plmoss21

10-08-2005 21:56:35




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I am trying to rebuild the clutch master cylinder in my jeep and I cant seem to get the cylinder out of the bore. The guy at the auto parts store said that I would have to beat it out with a rubber mallet but I dont see what he means how can you beat it out, there is no way to get behind it. Please, any help would be appreciated.




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Slowpoke

10-09-2005 11:07:16




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 Re: rebuilding a jeep clutch master cylinder probl in reply to plmoss21, 10-08-2005 21:56:35  
Have you even found a rebuild kit? For wheels, the kits costs the same or more than a new cylinder. Do you have a $20 cylinder hone? Besides, it's almost impossible to remove all the rust pits from the bore. They wreck the new cups and you'll have leaks in short order. For rare irreplaceable cylinders, they are bored and fitted with a stainless steel sleeve. Of course, a rebuilder has access to oversize cups and better tools than you do.

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Johnski

10-09-2005 11:06:40




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 Re: rebuilding a jeep clutch master cylinder probl in reply to plmoss21, 10-08-2005 21:56:35  
I would first depress the piston slightly to make sure that there isn't a retaining ring hiding in the bore. Also check along the outside for a retaining screw, some older ones had them on the bottom of the bore. Take the unit firmly in one hand and bring the open end down sharply onto a block of wood. A couple of good bangs will usually work. Air comp should be your last resort and keep the pressure low with a regulator set to less than 10 pounds or one of those safety blow guns that drop the pressure in the gun. HTH JF

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MAC,IL

10-09-2005 08:01:29




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 Re: rebuilding a jeep clutch master cylinder probl in reply to plmoss21, 10-08-2005 21:56:35  
I have used compressed air. "very carefully" But if I was going to keep the vehicle, I would just bite the bullet buy another complete cylinder and be done with it. Also keep an eye on the slave cylinder, it probably wont be far behind the master in failing. Fact is, some recommend replaceing both at the same time. I dont even think a dealer rebuilds them any more. Less costly to just replace the unit. Times have changed, everything is remove and replace anymore.

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Tug Man

10-09-2005 08:41:28




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 Re: rebuilding a jeep clutch master cylinder probl in reply to MAC,IL, 10-09-2005 08:01:29  
Well,this guy isn't charging himself $85 an hour either..... .



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jfp

10-09-2005 06:13:56




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 Re: rebuilding a jeep clutch master cylinder probl in reply to plmoss21, 10-08-2005 21:56:35  
I think the guy at the auto store was picking on you as to make you laugh and you didn't get his joke. Now he feels stupid and don't know what to say. In the first place; why rebuild it? Those things are just like brake cyclinders. If you rebuild it , then 6 months later it'll have to be done again. You know some states will not allow that at all for saftey reasons. What is the cost difference in a new one and a rebuild kit? Ask more than one store for prices. The difference could be alot.

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Pat Cox

10-09-2005 03:37:15




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 Re: rebuilding a jeep clutch master cylinder probl in reply to plmoss21, 10-08-2005 21:56:35  
The compressed air idea is one I have heard before. BUT, before you apply the pressure wrap a towel or something around the end of the cylinder where (you hope) the piston will come out. If you don't, when it finally lets go you may be wondering where it went.



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Hawaiirocky

10-08-2005 23:57:20




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 Re: rebuilding a jeep clutch master cylinder probl in reply to plmoss21, 10-08-2005 21:56:35  
How about compressed air? I once saw one removed with a suction cup on a stick.



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Bob

10-09-2005 09:44:24




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 Re: rebuilding a jeep clutch master cylinder probl in reply to Hawaiirocky , 10-08-2005 23:57:20  
Yes, compressed air works to remove pistons from bores. I have a hole in the insulation in my shop ceiling to attest to that (about 16 feet up). It got awfully close to my nose one the way up.

I DO NOT recommend air!

If it is really stuck, and you could adapt a grease zerk to the port, you could push it out using a grease gun. But, of course, all traces of the grease need to be removed before reassembly, or the new cups will swell up from the pertroleum-product resisdue.

Better yet, if it's at all affordable, replace the whole unit with a new or quality rebuilt one.

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