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help on Q-jet carb.

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Dale in Ar.

10-08-2005 20:18:22




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I am getting ready to rebuild my Q-jet carb.I am wanting to try to get some better gas mileage out of my Ton.It has a 454 in it and gets about 8 mile to the gallon.Surely some of you out there has tinkered with these Q-jets and gotten better gas mileage.Now,I would like to hear some of these secrets,if you all don't mind telling.I would sure would be greatful and the old pocket book wouldn't hurt so bad going to the next show.Thanks.

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Jetman8N

10-19-2005 10:55:10




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 Re: help on Q-jet carb. in reply to Dale in Ar., 10-08-2005 20:18:22  
Been a long time, however I raced a car with a Quadrajet (had to live with the existing carb type) so learned quite a bit the hard way. The following is based on memory (faulty, at best) but the pain of burning a piston from tweaking the wrong thing is still burned in my brain cells ao I think this is all correct. The QuadraJet was designed to have small primaries to increase velocity (better driveability at low throttle openings) and still have large capacity for big horsepower (the larger ones flowed around 725 cfm when tuned right) Keeping out of the secondaries (manually have to open the secondaries at the last bit of throttle opening) will help because the secondary metering rods lift out when the air valve opens. Tightening the spring on the secondary air valve (the air valve is spring loaded. The adjustment is at one end of the air valve shaft(screw with a locking allen screw) will reduce the amount the air valve opens and the metering rods withdraw. You can lean out the cab at wide open throttle by putting in different secondary rods (bigger), but I wouldn't do that as you will probably cause pre-ignition due to a lean condition, especially with the 454.
The primary circuit has an "enriching circuit" with rods that are spring loaded open and vacuum pulled shut and open when the manifold vacuum drops. You can decrease the spring pressure to limit opening or change the rods to larger ones and that will reduce the fuel mixture when opening. At low throttle openings, that would help lean out the mixture without much chance of engine damage. Too much will cause hesitation and surging at part throttle.
I'd hook up a vacuum gage. If you have vacuum leaks or valve problems your mileage will drop because the primary is "enriched" at all times due to low vacuum. If you have an automatic and/or are heavy footed, then the vacuum will drop often, additional fuel will be added and you will have low mileage.
So sounds as if you are rebuilding the carb. Great. Make sure the ports to the enriching device is clear (so the vacuum can pull the enriching valve shut) and you have the right gasket. replace the spring or put in bigger metering rods (a good parts guy can take your rods and provide larger ones). Make sure that all the rods are seating tightly in the carb body "jets". These carbs are notorious for wearing such that fuel is leaking from both the primary and secondary metering rods because the ports are oblong. Depending on the carb type (some have replaceable jets, some are in the body)you have to junk it or live with it.
Make sure all the manifold hoses are tight and the EGR (if it has one) is in good shape. If someone has put in an RV cam or lumpier cam, make sure you tweak the enriching device to accomodate the reduced vacuum. If this all sounds complicated, it is. That's why most folks just bought the Holley. A lot simpler to adjust and vacuum enriching valves/jets are easy to replace and identify.
8mpg isn't very good if you are driving a long way at steady speeds. IF you are driving short distances, you have to heat up the engine and that costs extra gas and 8 mpg is good. The 454 is a large piece of iron and has lots of coolant. Getting it to operating temperature just takes gas. Nothing is going to change that. I had a friend with a 454 automatic (1/2 ton) with 3.55 rear gears that got over 15 mph at 65. And another with a 3/4 ton 4/4 with 4.11 that got 10 at the same speed. Good luck, with tweaking and making sure it is in good shape, the QJ can give good mileage along with good driveability. Respectfully

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dr-q

10-16-2005 18:02:25




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 Re: help on Q-jet carb. in reply to Dale in Ar., 10-08-2005 20:18:22  
Q-jet = quadra junk!!!



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Loren

10-13-2005 17:11:16




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 Re: help on Q-jet carb. in reply to Dale in Ar., 10-08-2005 20:18:22  
Dale, maybe check and make sure the distributor mechanical advance is free. The get gummy between the advance mechanism and the shaft, reducing mileage and driveabiliy drastically. Pop open the dist. cap and when you twist the rotor it should spring back by itself. Total dist. disassembly, cleaning and lube is the cure.



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1945 A

10-11-2005 07:55:37




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 Re: help on Q-jet carb. in reply to Dale in Ar., 10-08-2005 20:18:22  
I never had much luck trying to rebuild Q-Jet carbs. It seemed (to me, anyway) that the kits had lots of pieces and parts, but not much in the way of instructions.
I changed from Q-Jet to Holley "Double Pumper", played around with different orifices, power valves, until I found a combination that worked.
I always felt that mechanical secondaries were a more positive control than the vacuum secondaries.
Like the other poster said, big blocks aren"t (weren"t) designed with economy in mind....
Good Luck!

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riverbend

10-09-2005 16:50:01




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 Re: help on Q-jet carb. in reply to Dale in Ar., 10-08-2005 20:18:22  
I've got a quadrajet on the 350 in my G20. Taking your time and not always using all the travel in the gas pedal can save 15% on fuel. I'd try that first unless you are having issues with poor pick up or running.

I like to look at the cost of gas vs how much I am delivering. With the season winding down, fuel is less than 2% of the price of the goods delivered. The driver costs me more than that.

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Mark - IN.

10-09-2005 15:11:00




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 Re: help on Q-jet carb. in reply to Dale in Ar., 10-08-2005 20:18:22  
I was never big into Quadrajets, but remember rebuilding one on a '70 402 Chevelle (.030 factory over 396), and will never forget put the top back on and not having that metering rod that dangles, lined up. It bent. Was repairable, but if you open it up, don't make the mistake I made.

One thing for fuel economy is cooler engines, but with todays HEI, they run pretty hot. I do remember back about '74 having a boss come out with a "fuel saver" that he began marketing. Wasn't much more than a sealed jug of colored water and alcohol that he tapped into a vacuum hose near the base of carb into the intake manifold plenum. Was clamped off so at best could trickle occasional drops of the concoction which was vaporized by the turbulance in the manifold. Did it make any or a big difference? I don't know. The users said it did. He was killed flying his 2 seater plane in to the side of a hill in a dense fog when he shouldn't have been flying, so it never went big. I've gotta figure did about the same as occasionally trickling a garden hose down a running "up to operating temp engine" - the cool moisture hits the hot carbon buildup, shatters it and sends it out the tail pipe. That goes back to a cooler running engine - hot carbon (heat) robs performance, although the newer ones require heat.

Try this, I posted a couple of weeks ago. I have diesels, so aint bothering. My brother told me he saw something on Speed Channel or one of them, where this engineer type says he's been doing it forever with great results. Said he added 1.5 ounces of acetone for ever 10 gallons of premium grade gasoline. Now hold on a second before you say "PREMUIM!?!". He said premium because that has more additives than the most volitale, regular grade, lesser volitale mid-grade, and least volitale premium grade. As I understand it, the acetone causes a chemical reaction in the milage robbing additives that pretty much makes them impotent, and the increase of milage more than offsets the cost of the premium. Supposedly makes the engine run cleaner (as she showed by tearing one down), and increases the milage. Supposedly, not much change was noticed in regular grade, some in mid-range, the most in premium. Try a Google Search and see if something turns up on "acetone gas additives" or the sort. May be something to it. Good luck.

Mark

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Slowpoke

10-09-2005 20:18:05




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 Re: help on Q-jet carb. in reply to Mark - IN., 10-09-2005 15:11:00  
When rebuilding the carb on my G20 350 the same thing happened to me with the metering rods ... they got bent without realizing it and would't pass a smog test. I took it apart and found the problem. I went to a rebuilder to buy new rods but he told me to carefully bend them back . I reassembled the carb and took it back for a bench test, which it passed 100%. Worth the $40 for the test and I was able to pass the smog test.

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Mark - IN.

10-10-2005 16:57:16




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 Google Search for acetone fuel additives got a hit in reply to Slowpoke, 10-09-2005 20:18:05  
I did a Google Search for "acetone fuel additives", and the first hit was for a company/place called "Pure Energy", and they got into it. May wanna take a look. May have something to offer.

And Slowpoke, I remember when I was an Illinois resident and they decided they were going to begin charging a "fee" for their smog test. That idea went over like a lead balloon, and didn't happen. Funny thing, was a "smog inspection", but had to pass everything else like turn signals, brake lights, etc. They say that "the vehical must be safe for them to get in it to smog test it". Uhh Huh, at 8.75% state sales tax on all parts that they can find fault with, revenue is revenue. Call me a cynic.

Mark

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Hermit

10-09-2005 07:57:58




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 Re: help on Q-jet carb. in reply to Dale in Ar., 10-08-2005 20:18:22  
I use to run a 454 with a Q-jet. If the engine is tuned properly and carb adjusted properly, the only way I've found to significantly increase mileage is driving techinique. I would suggest buying a vacuum gauge and accelerate/drive watching the vacuum. You might be surprised at the mileage increase through judicious use of the gas pedal. And if you want to blow someone's doors off, you can still stomp on it.

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Mike M

10-09-2005 06:54:05




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 Re: help on Q-jet carb. in reply to Dale in Ar., 10-08-2005 20:18:22  
If your not haveing any running problems and are just going to tear into it to try to find some better gas mileage GOOD LUCK ! 8 mpg on a big block is the norm. There's a reason they say they will pass everything but a gas station. LOL



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Bob M

10-09-2005 05:32:10




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 Re: help on Q-jet carb. in reply to Dale in Ar., 10-08-2005 20:18:22  
I've not fooled with Q-Jets on trucks. However I had good mileage improvement results locking out the secondary throttle plates on a marine application - a Mercury 260 (Chevy 350) with a marinized Q-Jet.

Before I messed with the carb the boat got about 2 mpg at cruise (19 knots and 2,750 RPM). After locking out the secondaries cruise performance remained unchanged, but "mileage" increased to 2.5 mpg - a 25% improvement.

As expected the top speed dropped (from 26 mph at 4,000 RPM to 22 at 3,200). But with gas running $4/gallon at the marina I'm happy to limit speed to "cruise" anymore!

Locking out the secondaries was a simple matter of bending a tang on the primary throttle shaft so it bypasses a mating dog on the secondary shaft. Secondary operation an easily be returned if desired by bending the tang back - though unless gas returns to $1 or less I doubt I will...

----

If you can find 'em you can also try installing one or two sizes smaller jets in the primary fuel metering circuits. (Jets are marked by orifice size on the OD of the orifice head). But that's kind of a trial and error process. And if you go too lean you will have drivability issues and may risk engine damage (burned exhaust valves, etc).

----

Good luck! Keep in mind however even latest, fuel injected 1 tons are good for only 10 - 11 mpg. To get better that you'll need to go diesel.

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Hal/WA

10-08-2005 21:25:46




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 Re: help on Q-jet carb. in reply to Dale in Ar., 10-08-2005 20:18:22  
I have rebuilt a few Q-jets over the years, and they aren't much different to rebuild than any 4 barrel carb. One thing you might want to check out: sometimes the primary throttle shaft will wear the carb base enough so you get a vacuum leak, and from that a poor idle. The way to find out if this is a problem is to spray carb cleaner around the ends of the throttle shaft while the engine is idling. If the idle speed gets faster, you have a vacuum leak that is sucking up the carb cleaner and richening the mixture. This can be fixed, by boring out the throttle shaft holes and installing bushings. If you plan to do a number of carbs, it would pay to get the right tools to do this job, but for one carb, it probably would be more practical to send it out to be fixed. If it idles lousy, that is probably what is wrong, and it will never work right until that problem is fixed.

As far as mileage goes, if your air/fuel mixture is correct, the only thing that will really help is to carefully avoid opening the secondaries. Q-jets have very large secondaries and very small primaries. For most conditions, the primaries are all you need, but with an engine as big as a 454, I would not wire the secondaries closed, as someone might suggest. There are times you might need the added accelleration or power that you can only get by "kicking in the 4-barrel", like climbing hills and holding freeway speeds.

You might want to try a new float assembly to make sure your old one isn't sinking and that the float level is where it should be. And be very careful with the carb inlet fuel filter, if it is still there. It is extremely easy to cross thread that fitting when you put it back together. BTDT!

Some of the vehicles from the late 70's--early 80's had carbs jetted richer than necessary. I never really understood how rich jetting was better for emissions, but supposedly with the catalytic converters of the day, it worked better if they were rich. Maybe it had to do with oxides of nitrogen. Anyway, if you have access to an exhaust gas analyzer, you might check this possibility out. It would have to be checked prior to the catalytic converter, assuming your truck has one. If the analyzer shows that your mixture is richer than it has to be, you might be able to gain some mileage by leaning it out a bit. You would have to experiment with the jets/rods to get the perfect air/fuel ratio, which might be something to have a carb expert do.

Sometimes a new air filter and a good tune-up can pay for themselves with better mileage. Don't expect a huge increase though...unfortunately the big, heavy carburated pickups with big engines generally don't get much more than about 10.

That is about what I get with my 460 powered F250 4x4. And I wish it had a Q-jet on it. Good luck!

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Eric Rylander

10-10-2005 19:41:42




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 Re: help on Q-jet carb. in reply to Hal/WA, 10-08-2005 21:25:46  
Very good ideas being presented here- but one that nobody has suggested is free up the exhaust.

I don"t know what you have on it now, but most factory systems could use imrovement. Free flowing duals will heip, and you don"t need to have it loud either- large RV type mufflers can be had that will not restrict flow and dampen the noise.

Also, look into a multi strike iginition box. I have never met anyone running one on a carburetted engine that did not notice a fuel mileage improvement. MSD, Mallory, Accel and Crane all make them. Fairly easy to install and wire. For your uses don"t spend the extra money for one with rev limiters etc., a Mallory 6A can be had for $119 from most mail order speed shop type outfits.

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