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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

OT: Roofing Question

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Slowpoke

10-03-2005 00:54:25




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In the early 70s, I reroofed a wood shingle roof with wood shingles. It's now time to replace them, but the price is very high, so I'm going with composition shingles. Since wood shingles are nailed on 1x4s spaced several inches apart, I need to change to a solid base. Do I remove the 1x4s, fill in between (impractical), or cover with sheathing? I think 3/4" will add too much weight and 1/2" won't be thick enough to hold a nail. It seems all roofs now use 1/2" OSB, ( which is now 15/32) but the shingle package says to have 3/4" nail penetration. What's the best way to do the job?
Thanks

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Galen

10-05-2005 03:49:22




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 Re: OT: Roofing Question in reply to Slowpoke, 10-03-2005 00:54:25  
Just put your 1/2" OSB on right over the purlins and got with the asphalt shingles. I'm not a metal roof fan for a structure that is lived in. I've inspected hundreds of homes with metal roofing and found damage that the home owner was not even aware of on 90% of them. Just my 2 cents.



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Bill in NorthCentral PA

10-03-2005 09:08:33




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 Re: OT: Roofing Question in reply to Slowpoke, 10-03-2005 00:54:25  
I would go with the steel roofing. It can be fastened (screws highly recommended) over the purlins if they are solid. I would measure th roof run and order the steel cut to the inch. Nice assessories like ridge and rake trims are standard. I have put ridge (outside) closures down with ridgevent, and then installed the ridgecap. It works well.

Good luck,

Bill



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RustyFarmall

10-03-2005 06:09:05




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 Re: OT: Roofing Question in reply to Slowpoke, 10-03-2005 00:54:25  
Leave the wood shingles where they are and nail the new composition shingles right on top. May not be the "correct" way to do it, but a lot of barns and other out buildings, and even some houses have been done that way and are still shedding water 50 years later.



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jfp

10-03-2005 07:50:55




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 Re: OT: Roofing Question in reply to RustyFarmall, 10-03-2005 06:09:05  
Rusty, most of the time I agree with you. Not this time. Modern day shingles will not last 50 years even if that's the warranty. Depends on what part of the country you live in as to how long they last. In the deep south a 30 year shingle will last about 15 years, 20 tops. The heat just eats them up. Up north, they do last longer but I never recomend putting asphalt shingles on top of wood shingles for weight reasons and at some time they'll have to be replaced costing more later than now.

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RustyFarmall

10-03-2005 17:47:17




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 Re: OT: Roofing Question in reply to jfp, 10-03-2005 07:50:55  
jfp, you're probably right, I had 30 year shingles installed on my house just one year ago, and already I am having problems. At this point I am not blaming the shingles, but rather the contractor who installed them.



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jfp

10-04-2005 08:57:44




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 Re: OT: Roofing Question in reply to RustyFarmall, 10-03-2005 17:47:17  
Really , if he could go with metal ; it would be better providing a underlayment was underneath for moisture reasons. The purlins are already there if they are good. I don't know what the house looks like (brick or siding), the tin roof must look right on it or face all the comments not to mention any codes.



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Slowpoke

10-05-2005 10:52:18




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 Re: OT: Roofing Question in reply to jfp, 10-04-2005 08:57:44  
Hello jfp... the small house has 7" tapered siding, built somewhere before 1940. The rafters are about 12' 2x4s on 24" centers with a 4-in-12 pitch. I may need to put in some supports to carry the weight of the comp shingles. I have replaced this roof of wood shingles in the early '70s, a composition roof on 1x8 deck in '83, and a 2-1/2 in 12 tar & gravel to comp on 3/8 plywood deck (no clips) about '84. I put 9/16 over the 3/8 and never had a leak on any of them. I plan on selling the small house soon, so metal roofing would be too expensive.

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jfp

10-03-2005 05:12:30




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 Re: OT: Roofing Question in reply to Slowpoke, 10-03-2005 00:54:25  
9/16 OSB is enough if you are on 2X6 rafters spaced on 19-1/4 centers. If on 24" centers leave the purlins on it. In fact leave them on anyway. As far as nails? most use nail guns that penentrate the decking to meet codes. A nail that goes all the way through the decking is harder to pull out, that's why. In 30 years I don't know how many times I've had to fix somebody's mess because of future problems. Most of the shingle makers give directions on each bundle of how to install. I got enough experience that I don't even pop chalk lines like I used to. Your supposed to every 5" but when I do its every 60" just to let me know where I'm at. OSB is a lot better now than when it first came out. Remember to put the green lines up as that's the side with coating. If you have any more questions let me know.

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Bus Driver

10-03-2005 04:34:55




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 Re: OT: Roofing Question in reply to Slowpoke, 10-03-2005 00:54:25  
Regarding the nails for asphalt shingles, most roofers want the nails to be 1 1/2" or so in length. Shorter nails are difficult to grasp and still avoid hitting fingers with the hammer.



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Trac y B

10-03-2005 05:09:23




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 Re: OT: Roofing Question in reply to Bus Driver, 10-03-2005 04:34:55  
Hitting fingers??? I have trouble in my area (NE MS) finding a roofer that still nails them on by hand, which I prefer...



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MarkB_MI

10-03-2005 03:47:01




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 Re: OT: Roofing Question in reply to Slowpoke, 10-03-2005 00:54:25  
You'll be fine with 7/16 or 1/2 inch OSB. I think what your shingle manufacturer means is that the nails must be long enough to penetrate all shingle layers with 3/4" left over. (In other words, use 1-1/4" nails, not 7/8".) Believe me, you won't have any problems with the thinner stuff, assuming your 1 x 4's are in good shape. If the purlins are in bad shape, remove them and use 5/8" OSB.

Your biggest problem will be paying for the sheathing. The price has (again) gone through the roof. (no pun intended)

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Scott Green

10-03-2005 03:59:23




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 Re: OT: Roofing Question in reply to MarkB_MI, 10-03-2005 03:47:01  
I'll back Mark on his suggestions. Been around the building trades all my life. What Mark is telling you is on the money.



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VaTom

10-03-2005 03:11:21




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 Re: OT: Roofing Question in reply to Slowpoke, 10-03-2005 00:54:25  
What's the best way to do the job?

I'm not fond of asphalt shingles. I'd go with metal roofing, preferably copper, that would go right on your 1x4s. That's what I did for my lumber shed last spring. The savings by not buying sheet goods helped offset the copper cost.

Found a retired roofer who was willing to loan me his old-fashioned seamers. Wasn't interested in any more large jobs, but did spend 1 paid day with me to get me started. I'm old enough that I didn't want to think about going back up there 20 or so years from now for a re-roof.

Good luck.

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Fawteen

10-03-2005 01:44:32




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 Re: OT: Roofing Question in reply to Slowpoke, 10-03-2005 00:54:25  
Cover it with 5/8 sheathing. Personally, I don't care for OSB as decking, but it's very commonly used, so it must meet code. With 5/8 decking, roofing felt or ice and water shield and shingles, a 3/4" nail will be about right.



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