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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Moving a steel building...

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usedtobeiowadave

09-19-2005 13:12:24




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Might have a chance to buy a 30 x 70 steel bldg at the right price. Brand unknown, great shape, gutter and downspout, on cement, some light panels in ceiling. Walls are un-insulated, there is some kind of liner on the ceiling, except for where the light panels are located. Overhead and walk-in doors are on the "wrong" (Non-gabled) side.

Anyone ever dismantle, move, and reconstruct one of these? I'd need to move it 100 miles. Tools? I figure electric impact wrench and boom truck. New foundation advice?

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Used-to-be-Iowa-Dave

09-21-2005 07:50:28




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 Re: Moving a steel building... in reply to usedtobeiowadave, 09-19-2005 13:12:24  
Found out it's a "Chief" brand. Guessing it's between 10-15 yrs old. The brief look I had at it, it didn't seem to be "seamed". The walls aren't insulated, how to fix?



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Cliff (VA)

09-20-2005 13:04:43




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 Re: Moving a steel building... in reply to usedtobeiowadave, 09-19-2005 13:12:24  
I work for a company that makes machines to make metal buildings. Our primary customer in this country is the US Military.

Our buildings are SEAMED together like a tin can. Very good for preventing leaks. Very difficult to unseam and reseam without our special equipment.

You might want to check before proceeding further. I would hate for you to get it all planned out and then realize that you cannot get the building apart.

Also metal buildings MUST be insulated due to condensation from heating and cooling.

Good luck!

Cliff (VA)

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Used-to-be-Iowa-Dave

09-20-2005 11:43:39




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 Re: Moving a steel building... in reply to usedtobeiowadave, 09-19-2005 13:12:24  
Nope, not a quonset-type, more like that found on Link (Sorry, not savvy about posting links)



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Case450

09-20-2005 09:04:15




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 Re: Moving a steel building... in reply to usedtobeiowadave, 09-19-2005 13:12:24  
There quonset buildings. Made of a bunch of galvanized steel plates that bolt together. click on the link for an image. Kinda doesn't sound like the kind your talking about hoever but good luck with your project!



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Bus Driver

09-20-2005 07:51:44




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 Re: Moving a steel building... in reply to usedtobeiowadave, 09-19-2005 13:12:24  
Someone already suggested moving it in one piece. Perhaps they did not notice the 100 miles involved. One near here was moved about 1/2 mile in one piece. Dismantling seems to me the best choice.



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MPND

09-20-2005 16:33:10




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 Re: Moving a steel building... in reply to Bus Driver, 09-20-2005 07:51:44  
The cost of moving a building is mostly the lifting and setting down. On the road they just have someone blocking traffic and have the electric company lifting lines. If your area is like North Dakota (flat and empty) they can move the building no time flat.



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usedtobeiowadave

09-20-2005 07:43:04




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 Re: Moving a steel building... in reply to usedtobeiowadave, 09-19-2005 13:12:24  
Wow! I knew I could count on you guys. Case450-what's a culvert bldg? Charles-you validated all kinds of things I'd been thinking, especially with the "paint pen". Hal-this is the same kind of deal, government installation, would probably spend our tax dollars to have it removed. Facilities manager knows it and may make me an offer I don't want to refuse. Bill, agree with # system for marking parts and I'd had passing thoughts about a plate system for the anchor bolts, so thanks for letting me know I'm in the box on that one. Nate, if this comes to pass I'm sure I'll be talking to you again(!) I'm sure I can get the manufacturer info, if not, your advice on where to take the first bite will be invaluable. MPND-I'd gladly skip the hassle of taking it apart, etc. to just move it. I just assumed it was too large to move 100 miles? Slowpoke-my county is pretty laid-back, but you're right, I'll need the permit. This deal probably won't unfold until next Spring, if it comes off at all (government). As casual discussions were beginning, I wanted to make sure it was something I even wanted to consider. Thanks for the advice all...

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Slowpoke

09-20-2005 00:43:14




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 Re: Moving a steel building... in reply to usedtobeiowadave, 09-19-2005 13:12:24  
Sorry to dampen your enthusiasm, but wherever you are, the chances that you will need a building permit are about 100%. The county will want copies of the construction drawings with the current stamp of a registered engineer. The foundation plan will have to be included. Of course, if it's moved in one piece, you may only need the foundation plan and a plan view.
The seller may require you to provide liability insurance in case you or your helpers get hurt or damage other property. And it will have to be removed by yesterday.

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MPND

09-19-2005 20:37:48




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 Re: Moving a steel building... in reply to usedtobeiowadave, 09-19-2005 13:12:24  
Get an estimate for moving it in one piece. The Arctic Cat dealer here does it all the time with buildings of all sizes and shapes. Prepare the site ahead of time then just drop it in place.



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Nate in IA.

09-19-2005 19:37:23




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 Re: Moving a steel building... in reply to usedtobeiowadave, 09-19-2005 13:12:24  
I am in the steel building erection business. I sell new ones and move old ones. Like everyone one else said lots of pictures, and measurements are nessecary. If the building is not that old look on the purlins for a shipping paper attached and you may find out what brand it is. If you do, call or check online for the company. Find the company and the original owners name and address and they should be able to send a copy of the erection drawings. I didn't see you list anywhere how high the building is so I can't give a recomdation on equipment to take it down. Considering it is only 30' wide an all terain or a extentable reach forklift will do the job. any other questions e-mail me.

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Bill in NorthCentral PA

09-19-2005 19:12:54




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 Re: Moving a steel building... in reply to usedtobeiowadave, 09-19-2005 13:12:24  
This can be done quite easily. The comments about drawings were totally on target! Label your pieces, by "bay" and location, typical is 1G1-L for frist bay, girt, first one up, left side, or something like that. The hardest part will be the foundations, although with good drainage, I would recommend a monolithic slab if your are going for the floor now. Measure center to center on your frames and existing anchor bolts. I have had plates made and tack welded or double nutted the anchor bolts into place, thus reducing the chance for errors. I would recommend strongly on placing the anchor bolts in an afixed manner to prevent moving during the pour. Try fastenal for the bolts and misc fasteners. I recommend new roof and siding crews. If you need / want to repaint, Sherwin-Williams makes a great building paint - it was called B-55 direct to metal enamel.

Good luck - email if you think I could answer questions.

Bill

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Hal/WA

09-19-2005 17:29:14




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 Re: Moving a steel building... in reply to usedtobeiowadave, 09-19-2005 13:12:24  
A buddy of mine was given a steel building for taking it down--it was in the way of another project the company wanted to do. This building was all steel, about 20 years old and almost all bolted together. First he unscrewed all the outer shell and hauled it home as he removed it. Then he unbolted the girts and purlins and lowered them down and hauled them home. When he was down to the basic framework, he hired a guy with a medium sized crane to help him lower the unbolted framework and used that guy's truck and trailer to haul the framework home. The whole process of taking the building down took him and his son about 2 weeks and ended up costing under $2000 to get the building home.

During the next year, he rebuilt the building on his property, which is only about 5 miles from the original location. He has a big concrete mixer and cast the individual footings one by one, being very careful to place the bolts very exactly. When he was ready, he again hired the guy with the crane and over a weekend raised the basic framework. Over the summer, he and his son put on the rest of the framework and the outer shell. He found that he had to replace some of the sheet metal, as some had rust and some got damaged. When the building was mostly complete, he got a bunch of his friends to help him pour the concrete floor, which took 3 days.

I think that building is about 50 x 100. My friend put in all new roof insulation and insulated the sidewalls with recycled fiberglass insulation. He has said he has less than $20k out of pocket in the new building. He continues to add to the wiring and will probably need to replace at least one of the overhead doors.

But that is one HUGE building, that is extremely strong and will not have a rot problem like a pole barn might in our lifetime. It has been a lot of work, but it is probably worth at least 5 times what he has invested. A good deal, if you have the time and ambition to do the job. Good luck!

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Charles (in GA)

09-19-2005 13:37:19




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 Re: Moving a steel building... in reply to usedtobeiowadave, 09-19-2005 13:12:24  
I've never done anything like this, but I pondered it a few times before I built the 60x60 aircraft hangar in my back yard.

Without original drawings you have little choice but to make your own drawings, as detailed as you can get, and number all the pieces before it comes apart. Probably some sort of white paint marker. Leave as many parts together as you can, such as purlin clips attached to the purlins or beams, and when you get it down, you will need to carefully measure and draw out the stud patterns.

I wouild take lots of digital photos, lots of them, several of every joint in the building.

get as organized as you can, set out buckets for hardware to go in, the more you save, the less you will need to buy.

Remember you will need 4x4's and 2x4's to set parts on on the truck or trailer and if you are hauling this yourself, you will need lots of good ratchet straps, etc, to safely secure it to the trailer or truck. You don't want to lose parts, or damage them.

tip, Home Depor has AMERICAN MADE 2" wide, 10,000 lb ratchet straps, 27 ft long, for about $14. They keep creeping up in price, I bought two at $12, two more later at $13 and now they are $14 or so, best deal going, get 6 or 8 of them minimum.

Make sure you note the diameter of the anchor bolts, and other important dimensions that you may not be able to go back and get later on.

As far as a slab goes, I would talk to a metal building company, they may give you some ideas. You are going to need several people and equipment to get this apart and down without damage to the building or yourself. You might just want to consider contracting the slab to someone who does this for a living.

Charles

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Case450

09-19-2005 13:28:25




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 Re: Moving a steel building... in reply to usedtobeiowadave, 09-19-2005 13:12:24  
If it's one of those "culvert" buildings i wouldn't buy it. Every guy I know that has one says there a pain in the butt. Mostly due to moisture buildup from the steel getting hot than cold throught the day/night cycle. Since the doors are on the non-gabled sides of the building I would take into consideration the possibility of moisture penetration at the bottom of the doors and walls. The non-gabled ends of the building are where the water is supposed to run so keept that in mind when building sealing the wall to floor joint.

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