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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Gooseneck Ball

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IA Roy

08-29-2005 10:40:37




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What is the best way to tighten a gooseneck ball onto a truck. There are threads in the mounting plate. There is just a narrow shoulder above the threaded shank about 1/2" wide. Years ago I had one with a 2" tall shoulder and I used a pipe wrench, but would rather not use it on the ball itself. I thought about welding a bar onto it and using a hammer to tighten it the last bit, but there isn't a lot of room. Thanks for the replies in advance.

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Greg C

08-31-2005 16:59:28




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 Re: Gooseneck Ball in reply to IA Roy, 08-29-2005 10:40:37  
I usually weld two small pieces of 3/8 square stock on each side of the neck of the ball, just above the threads. Then make a socket out of a piece of round pipe, cutting out two notches for the square stock, and drilling a hole through at the top to put a bar through for your handle. Hope this helps.
Greg



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Greg C

08-31-2005 16:51:20




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 Re: Gooseneck Ball in reply to IA Roy, 08-29-2005 10:40:37  
I usually weld two small pieces of 3/8 square stock on each side of the neck of the ball, just above the threads. Then make a socket out of a piece of round pipe, cutting out two notches for the square stock, and drilling a hole through at the top to put a bar through for your handle. Hope this helps.
Greg



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Case450

08-31-2005 16:26:45




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 Re: Gooseneck Ball in reply to IA Roy, 08-29-2005 10:40:37  
would it be possible to cut new threads?



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T_Bone

08-30-2005 00:06:31




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 Re: Gooseneck Ball in reply to IA Roy, 08-29-2005 10:40:37  
Hi Roy,

If you will notice the higher GVW rated balls have a longer/higher shoulders for the same shank size. Some of the 20,000 to 30,000lb rated balls are heat treated so unless you reheat treat the ball after welding, the ball would be soft and not carry there GVWR.

I would be more inclined to use a higher GVWR ball than I needed then use a grinder and flat spot the shoulder in four spots to fit a large common size open end wrench. If your using a heat treated ball, keep the shoulder well under 500� while grinding to keep from changing the current heat treatment.

I personally only like using the machined balls as there a much stronger ball and wll last longer than cast or forged balls.

T_Bone

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larryw-tx

08-29-2005 18:51:03




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 Re: Gooseneck Ball in reply to IA Roy, 08-29-2005 10:40:37  
The 2 5/16 ball on my work truck screwed into a plate also, I used 3 machine washers for spacers to get pipe wrench on. I hand tightened the ball. Weight of 29" trailer tightened it. Had to use 24" pipe wrench to get it off. I also tacked the washers together then all is the same each time.



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larryw-tx

08-29-2005 18:50:55




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 Re: Gooseneck Ball in reply to IA Roy, 08-29-2005 10:40:37  
The 2 5/16 ball on my work truck screwed into a plate also, I used 3 machine washers for spacers to get pipe wrench on. I hand tightened the ball. Weight of 29" trailer tightened it. Had to use 24" pipe wrench to get it off. I also tacked the washers together then all is the same each time.



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RickL

08-29-2005 16:15:15




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 Re: Gooseneck Ball in reply to IA Roy, 08-29-2005 10:40:37  
I would get a ball like you had with a taller neck thosw short ones like you are talking about sometimes in turns and hilling ground the trailer hitch will want to rub on the plate or bed of pickup due to such low clearence. just might thoughts.



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RustyFarmall

08-29-2005 12:42:11




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 Re: Gooseneck Ball in reply to IA Roy, 08-29-2005 10:40:37  
Would the shank extend through the mounting plate far enough that you could put a locking nut on it?



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Mike M

08-29-2005 12:10:44




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 Re: Gooseneck Ball in reply to IA Roy, 08-29-2005 10:40:37  
Could you grind some flat spots on it so you can get a wrench on it ? I have a different style of hitch that you pull a pin and can flip it over out of the way. I really like this style.



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