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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Question re ranch gate design

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dssssb

08-23-2005 06:23:31




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I'm wanting to build a ranch gate 18' wide with the bowed pipe overhead like you see as ranch entry gates. I'm using 4" pipe. What wall thickness should I use, how do you get a gentle bow in the overhead pipe, and any welding tips? Also, how high up should the overhead pipe be to allow access for most farm equipment, but still look right. Should it be welded together on the ground and put up with a loader tractor? Thanks in advance for any advice.

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TomTX

08-30-2005 14:45:38




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 Re: Question re ranch gate design in reply to dssssb, 08-23-2005 06:23:31  
I just had some 2 inch square tubing, heavy wall, curved/arched about 18 inches across a 14 foot span. Just ask you local steel yard who will "roll" it for you. They will have a machine that can roll it to achieve any bend you want. Just be sure to use the correct term of "roll".



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jimNCal

08-28-2005 10:47:13




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 Re: Question re ranch gate design in reply to dssssb, 08-23-2005 06:23:31  
T-Bone has the right idea. Packing a sch 40 pipe(80 is probably too heavy and 10 MAY be too thin)with sand and capping the ends is your best method for a home try at this. Also, depending on the radius you are after, the thinner wall tubings will just distort and collapse even with the sand as it doesn't have enough material to 'thin out' as it stretches at the heel. Of course, you don't say how much arc you are after so if you are trying to get, say, 6" of rise in 18 ft, even the thin stuff will work fine. BTW, 18 ft iron gate is quite a load. Make sure you figure on a deep footing and a preload lean on the post. Good luck.

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big fred

08-24-2005 19:17:29




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 Re: Question re ranch gate design in reply to dssssb, 08-23-2005 06:23:31  
Lincoln has such a gate on their projects page. See link. I don't see a need for a 4 inch pipe unless you plan on hitting it with machinery. In that case, a couple of bollards made from the 4 inch stuff oughta make a sufficient guard. Put the bollards on the side where the gate doesn't swing and inset a few inches from the main posts.

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T_Bone

08-24-2005 03:30:29




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 Re: Question re ranch gate design in reply to dssssb, 08-23-2005 06:23:31  
Hi dsssb,

Wow, you have choosen a hard project. Since the pipe doesn't have to be structural sound, as it doesn't support any weight, you might get by with packing a thinn wall tube with dry sand, then end cap both ends, then cold bend around the correct radius.

The coreect radius would be approx. 1/3 of disired radius to allow for spring back.

The above is just a SWAG as I've never tried to accomplish such a task on larger pipe. I did bend some 1/2"emt to a large radius,(9ft), using the above method other than adding the sand. The sand would keep wrinkles from forming on the pipe surface as the pipe is bent.

Maybe you could find a concrete round building with the approx correct radius to use as a mold. I'm sure it will take several tons of pressure even to bend the thinest gauge of 4" pipe.

Another old method of working the pipe to a radius is to make a patteren with a finished radius on one side. Then use heat with a air water cooler to shirnk small thinn heat lines on the radius throat then cool with the air water thus slightly shrinking the pipe to a radius.

I've used this method to bend a radius on I-beam with good results but I have my doubts if it will work well on pipe as pipe needs to stretch on the heal and shrink on the throat to bend and why a bending die is used.

I worked with a pipe fitter from Venezuela that told me all they used to bend heavy wall pipe was the packed sand method and a large amount of heat and lots of pressure against another pipe.

Another thought, try on a smaller pipe diameter, 1-1/4" ?, and weld a bead on the throat side of the bend then cool with water and see what you get. It may very well shrink enough for a large radius bend and still look good when done. If it works there then move on to the 4" pipe.

T_Bone

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Slowpoke

08-23-2005 21:42:14




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 Re: Question re ranch gate design in reply to dssssb, 08-23-2005 06:23:31  
I see the city is using such a design at a new "light rail" project. It's used to hang the train/intersection signal lights. It looks like it is more resistant to twisting than the standard heavy uprights and an engineered beam across the road. I guess the pipe is about 8" in diameter. Even if you're using 4", It would probably be costly to have that size bent as I would use no less than 9 or 8 gauge (.156/.172). Scout around in a good steel scrap yard and try to find two pieces prebent to 90�. Also check the Yellow Pages under "Pipe" and "Pipe Bending". If you don't live near a big city, go to www.yellowpages.com and see what you can find.

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