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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

bandsaw blades

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BobOHIO

07-29-2005 17:17:48




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I have a 4X6 metal cutting bandsaw and need a new blade. Any particular one to look for to cut mild steel. Brands, number of teeth etc. Thanks




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Charles (in GA)

07-30-2005 08:23:30




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 Re: bandsaw blades in reply to BobOHIO, 07-29-2005 17:17:48  
Make doubly sure of your length, my saw is one that the saw swivels and the vise stays fixed, some were built the other way around. I think they both use the same length blade.

The Starrett tag for my blades says 5 ft 4 1/2 inch, thats 64.5 iches, 1/2 inch wide, 14 teeth, "Flex Back", .025" thick.

The tag even has a neat little chart on the back with a cross reference of contact area of the blade to the item being cut (in sq/in) and the no. of teeth per inch needed. It has another chart that lists various material being cut (steel types, etc.) and for flex back and powerbrand blades the speed in fpm and cutting rate in sq/in per min.

Come to think of it, I'm on my last blade and need to order a couple now.

Charles

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BobOHIO

07-30-2005 13:36:42




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 Re: bandsaw blades in reply to Charles (in GA), 07-30-2005 08:23:30  
Thanks Charles. My saw is the opposite and fixed with swivel vice. It takes the 64 1/2 inch blade too. Thank you for the information.



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Charles (in GA)

07-29-2005 21:10:03




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 Re: bandsaw blades in reply to BobOHIO, 07-29-2005 17:17:48  
I have a cheap Northern Hydraulics/Handyman bandsaw. The chinese blade didn't last too long but I bought two new Starrett blades in 14 TPI and have had good luck for everything from large PVC pipe and EMT conduit, to two inch angle iron.

I was considering a 14/18 variable pitch blade, supposedly stops some of the hormonics you get out of single pitch blades.

My two have lasted a very long time, but the first time it jams, jumps a wheel or chips a tooth, its ready to replace, don't fool with it.

I got mine from MSC, they frequently have them on sale. Grainger also has them.

Charles

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BobOHIO

07-30-2005 05:57:58




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 Re: bandsaw blades in reply to Charles (in GA), 07-29-2005 21:10:03  
Thanks CHarles. My saw is a cheap Harbor Freight and is the origional china blade that broke. I will order a new Starrett blade in 14 TPI. Thanks for the info. Bob



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Davis In SC

07-29-2005 17:34:05




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 Re: bandsaw blades in reply to BobOHIO, 07-29-2005 17:17:48  
Type & pitch of blade will depend on your applications. If you are cutting pipe or angle, you need a fine tooth pitch. For a small saw, I would buy decent, but cheaper bands. Lack of rigidity is rough on bands. The biggest mistake people make (IMHO)is using a too-coarse pitch band on a general purpose saw. My recommendation is a Carbon-steel 14 TPI Band....It may cut slower, but will last much longer..... Lenox & Starrett are both good brands at a reasonable price....

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Slowpoke

07-31-2005 01:58:45




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 Re: bandsaw blades in reply to Davis In SC, 07-29-2005 17:34:05  
For a general purpose blade, I would go with an 18 tooth. It's too easy to put on 1/8 thick stock and not bother to replace the 14 tooth blade. The rule is 3 teeth in contact with the work. 14 teeth on 1/2" stock gives 7 teeth in contact. On 1/4" you have 3-1/2 teeth in contact. On 1/8" stock there's only 1-3/4 teeth cutting. Using 18 tpi blade ups it to 2-1/4 teeth, still not the best, but less likely to take out a tooth than the 14 tpi blade. So the loss of one tooth can cost $10.

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BobOHIO

07-31-2005 06:37:29




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 Re: bandsaw blades in reply to Slowpoke, 07-31-2005 01:58:45  
Thanks Slowpoke. The blade I had was 14 TPI and broke a section of about 5 teeth and I was cutting a piece of 1/8 inch when it happened. Thanks for the info.



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Slowpoke

07-31-2005 12:48:16




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 Re: bandsaw blades in reply to BobOHIO, 07-31-2005 06:37:29  
Bob, if you are usually cutting 1/8 stock, electrical conduit, etc, go to a 24tpi blade. It will cut the thin stuff fast enough. The blades are available at HF, Grainger, Home depot, and others. You may want to adjust the down pressure by turning the spring handle,or just using your hand to ease up on the presssure by holding the end of the saw frame up a little while cutting. HF blades are made in Mexico and sell for about $7, while Starrett is USA and sell for about $11. Hint: cutting bed rails may ruin your blades. They are tempered and can be harder than the saw teeth.
Good luck with the saw, they are very handy machines with a little care and modification.

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Dan Miller

10-05-2005 11:38:07




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 Re: bandsaw blades in reply to Slowpoke, 07-31-2005 12:48:16  
Looking fir information na manufacturing bandsaw blades. can they be stamped and then heat treated



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BobOHIO

07-31-2005 19:30:15




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 Re: bandsaw blades in reply to Slowpoke, 07-31-2005 12:48:16  
Thanks Slowpoke. 1/8 inch is about the thinnest metal I cut. Most is 1/4 and sometimes a little more. My motor I think is also shot after 6 months of occasional use. Last time I used it was too hot to touch. WOuld burn my hand. It never wanted to start the blade since new. Will replace the china motor with an american one I have out in the garage, a marathon brand I think. I like the saw but it has some cheap parts like the motor. Thanks for your help.

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Slowpoke

08-01-2005 09:54:42




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 Re: bandsaw blades in reply to BobOHIO, 07-31-2005 19:30:15  
My 1 hp motor also ran very hot. The start windings finally burned out when I walked away for 2-3 minutes & it jammed at the end of a cut. There is no sort of thermal protection on those motors. There should be a manual thermal reset on a machinery motor so if it shuts down, it won't restart automaticaly and cause injury or worse. I replaced the 1hp with an old 1/3 hp motor that runs barely warm and has no trouble powering the saw.

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BobOHIO

08-01-2005 18:30:16




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 Re: bandsaw blades in reply to Slowpoke, 08-01-2005 09:54:42  
Thanks for the info. I believe the US motor I have is either 1/3 or 1/2 hp. The china motor that came with it didn't want to start the blade, would just sit and hum. Sometimes flip the switch to off and back on and would run. It was faulty from the beginning. I'll be glad to get it running again. Thanks for your help.



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BobOHIO

07-29-2005 18:46:31




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 Re: bandsaw blades in reply to Davis In SC, 07-29-2005 17:34:05  
Thanks Davis. I'll look at Starrett for a 14 TPI Carbon band. Would this work for cutting aluminum too? I mostly cut mild steel but was wondering if it would work if needed.



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Davis In SC

07-29-2005 19:21:48




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 Re: bandsaw blades in reply to BobOHIO, 07-29-2005 18:46:31  
Yes, it will cut Aluminum well. Only problem cutting aluminum is blade may get gummed up , if it is a dry cut saw. A few squirts of WD-40 , at the spot blade enters cut, will avoid that from happening.....



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Fred Martin

08-02-2005 05:50:13




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 Re: bandsaw blades in reply to Davis In SC, 07-29-2005 19:21:48  
Davis...I"ll add a few more to your post if you don"t mind. Diesel fuel or kerosene or soapy water will help as a coolant on aluminum but is awful messy. For the occasional cutting of aluminum I have found that dragging a candle on the blade teeth fills the gullets with wax and the heat of the cut melts it and helps release the shaving and keep the blade from loading. Also, you can cut aluminum and then use the same blade to cut steel...but not so good the other way around...reason...it takes more clearance to cut aluminum than it does for steel. I wouldn"t worry if I had a few pieces of it to cut...I"d use the same blade I used for steel...just use a candle and if it loads up, stop immediately and take a scribe or such and pick it out before it snags and pulls some teeth off the blade. I would put the saw in high gear though. Fred OH

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BobOHIO

07-30-2005 05:55:48




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 Re: bandsaw blades in reply to Davis In SC, 07-29-2005 19:21:48  
Thanks for your help. I appreciate it.



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