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OT Insulating farmhouse Foundation - stacked stone

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QuebecBob

07-08-2005 08:10:02




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I have a hundred year old farmhouse with a stacked stone foundation. I want to insulate it so that the floors above are warmer in winter. There is no insulation presently; it has a poured concrete floor, the water pipes run along the ceiling joists. My thought is to have foam sprayed on the walls starting about 18" from the bottom (so the base stones still get some heat and don't move with the frost in our deep Canadian winter). Should I also insulate the ceiling of the basement? (It would seem to defeat my purpose if I do.)Are there other things I haven't thought about? A website that will help? Help? Experience? Ideas? Thanks

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Quebec Red

07-12-2005 14:08:25




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 Re: OT Insulating farmhouse Foundation - stacked s in reply to QuebecBob, 07-08-2005 08:10:02  
I had a house that was built on Rideau clay soil about 140 years old. I dug out the outside ground to the foundation bottom, insulated with 2 inches of pink styrafoam, put in a 4 inch drain all around the house and had proper fill installed. This made a big improvement in house comfort. Just a note about your name (and mine!!!). Usually you find me at the Farmall board or on the Redpower forum , Live about 40 miles west of Montreal within spitting distance of Ontario (with a bit of wind). Always good to know of other Quebec lads. Give me a page. QR

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RWK in WI

07-08-2005 18:32:01




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 Re: OT Insulating farmhouse Foundation - stacked s in reply to QuebecBob, 07-08-2005 08:10:02  
A word of caution. If you are in a clay or humis soil area, insulating a foundation will allow the soil on the outside of the wall to freeze deeper and harder. This puts added pressure on the foundation and has in some cases causes foundations to fail. If you soil is dry, well drained sand or gravel you should be OK.



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T_Bone

07-08-2005 10:55:16




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 Re: OT Insulating farmhouse Foundation - stacked s in reply to QuebecBob, 07-08-2005 08:10:02  
Hi Bob,

Here's some general considerations.

Heat rises and cold air sinks. Use that to determine where you need to insulate for maximum efficency.

Below ground temperature at 8ft is approx 50f� average in N. America. This is pretty consistant and doesn't change yearly.

Typical earth is thermal stable at 2ft thick, meaning the 2ft of earth will not change temperature when exposed to air on either side of the wall and will thermal stablize at approx 70�f. As far as I know there is not a scientific explantion for this known fact but thousands of years of Adobe buildings has proven this fact indeed does exist.

So if you have a consistant "unlimted" source at 50�f and out your outside air is at minus 40�f then you have a "constant" available heat gain of 90�f.

70�-50� = 27�f of heating required. (7� of inefficiency of typical air/liquid heat exchanger pumping loss. Liquid/liquid heat exchangers is typical 3�)

A well designed simple HW solar collector in 60� abmient can raise 80gal of 55� inlet water in two hours to 180�.

A typical human needs 3 air changes per hour to feel comfortable with-in a "closed room". So if your room was 20ft x 20ft x 8ft high you would need to move a constant 160cfm per hour. 20x20x8=3200x3=9600cft/20=480cfm/3=160cfm

The faster you move air, measured in feet per minute (fpm), during the winter the colder you will feel from skin moister evaporation.

A typical human feels comfortable at 70� at 50%rh. Drop the humidity to 40%@70� and a sweater will be needed. Drop that to 10%rh@70� and a jacket would be required while sitting. The reverse is also true. A room at 80%rh@70� then one would be naked to feel comfortable. I can see the wheels turning now! LMAO

Outside Air tends to be drier during the winter, approx 30%rh is typical and 70%rh during summer. So humidify the rooms during the winter and refrigerate/condensate during the summer without changing room temperature.

Preform all design calculations on BTU/hr requirments per "pound" of substance. If not then you will over/under design for both winter and summer comfort.

My neighbor has a exposed foam roof. The birds just pick it to death. Looks like someone took a shotgun and blasted the foam after one year.

T_Bone

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Lou

07-08-2005 11:37:10




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 Re: OT Insulating farmhouse Foundation - stacked s in reply to T_Bone, 07-08-2005 10:55:16  
Any moistue considerations? Id insulate around the top, the bottom should be fine without it. My opinion, good luck Lou



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504

07-08-2005 20:12:39




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 Re: OT Insulating farmhouse Foundation - stacked s in reply to Lou, 07-08-2005 11:37:10  
Bob, I would insulate the floor with the vapor barrier next to the floor and it will make a big differance. We did my Dads place25yr ago (he had a crawl space)and held it up with chicken wire. This would be the same as the attic,you insulate the ceiling not the pitch.



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