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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

hardstarting,sluggish 8hp Briggs

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JCS

07-06-2005 19:18:47




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I have a 8hp Briggs&Stratton on a wood splitter which is giving me greif lately. It is hard to start, atleast 8-10 pulls and is short on power when the motor is cold. I rebuilt the carb, and that has helped a little. I also repaced the breather tube(it goes to the carb on this model(1900 series) I plan on getting rid of the points-condensor and replacing them w/ electronic ignition next. It seems to have plenty of compression as my arm is getting sore pulling on the stupid cord!!! Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

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Bill WI

07-09-2005 07:32:11




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 Re: hardstarting,sluggish 8hp Briggs in reply to JCS, 07-06-2005 19:18:47  
Some of those engines should use 2 (same) gaskets between the carb and block. Make sure it's flat. On a Briggs you can buy what they call the Magnetron electronic ignition and it mounts right in between the coil and flywheel instuctions come with it and yes clean up the flywheel and regap. Have been told that the Briggs part is better than the after market ones and not that much more. Look around, some of the farm supply stores may have them, I think that's where I got one. Sounds like you're leaking between the carb and block til it warms up, but don't overtighten and warp the flange.

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JackE

07-08-2005 12:17:39




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 Re: hardstarting,sluggish 8hp Briggs in reply to JCS, 07-06-2005 19:18:47  
JCS, I had a Briggs 5HP on a rototiller a few years ago that gave me the same problem. When I pulled the flywheel/pullstart cover, as I was thinking to check the points, I found the flywheel magnet was rusty. I pulled the coil off and cleaned the flywheel magnet and the coil faces with sandpaper. I put everything back together, making sure the gap between the coil and flywheel was right. The rototiller started right up. Check the flywheel for rust. Good luck Jack

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RayP(MI)

07-07-2005 18:23:37




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 Re: hardstarting,sluggish 8hp Briggs in reply to JCS, 07-06-2005 19:18:47  
We let the oil get down in a 5hp B&S on a tiller - lead to having a ring job. Not pretty, are you sure it's properly lubricated? Aslo how is the air cleaner? Check and replace or clean as necessary.



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JCS

07-07-2005 19:43:25




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 Re: hardstarting,sluggish 8hp Briggs in reply to RayP(MI), 07-07-2005 18:23:37  
Yup I keep a close eye on the oil. I also change it religiously every 25 hours or so(it uses very little if any oil between changes); clean the air filter annually too; but thanks for the tips, I know a lot of guys let the day to day maintanence slip.



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RayP(MI)

07-07-2005 18:23:23




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 Re: hardstarting,sluggish 8hp Briggs in reply to JCS, 07-06-2005 19:18:47  
We let the oil get down in a 5hp B&S on a tiller - lead to having a ring job. Not pretty, are you sure it's properly lubricated? Aslo how is the air cleaner? Check and replace or clean as necessary.



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550Doug

07-07-2005 17:07:52




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 Re: hardstarting,sluggish 8hp Briggs in reply to JCS, 07-06-2005 19:18:47  
I just went through a similar exercise with a 5hp B$S. Yes the intake from the carb to the cylinder needed a gasket and tight bolts, but the real clincher that got it humming was cleaning the fuel cap. Rust has clogged the air holes in the cap and the carb just couldn't suck up enough fuel. It used to be hard to start and was very sluggish when it did start, and then it would start hunting and the only way to keep it going was to continually adjust the choke. No more. It humms just fine now.
Hope you get your problem solved and answer us back on your progress. Good luck!

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teej

07-07-2005 12:10:31




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 Re: hardstarting,sluggish 8hp Briggs in reply to JCS, 07-06-2005 19:18:47  
Just pulling the rope on a logsplitter is hard to determine whether you're feeling compression, or the pump trying to pump oil.

Same with a generator, not only are you pulling over the engine, but you're spinning the 100 lbs rotor/armature also.

I have the same type engine on a chipper shredder, and sometimes the centrifugal clutch sticks, and boy is that a lot to spin over with a pull starter.


Anyhow, make sure the choke works, and also that the bolts are tight on the carb and intake.

This engine will also have a compression release, so a compression tester will never give you an accurate reading. Best you'll get is about 80 lbs. If you have less than 50, then you have compression troubles.

A leakdown tester would tell you much more than a compression tester would. Its a bit more expensive, but the leakdown tester would tell you where the compression is leaking to. You'll need a air compressor for it also to pressurize the cylinder. Could be worn rings (you'd get blue smoke when its running though), or valves that aren't sealing properly.

Electronic ignition won't hurt any, but a motor with good points should start just as easy. Check and make sure you have a good blue spark.

Points are probably behind the flywheel. you can convert it without having to remove the flywheel.

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Weirsdale George

07-07-2005 12:46:15




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 Re: hardstarting,sluggish 8hp Briggs in reply to teej, 07-07-2005 12:10:31  
I have done leakdown tests just by welding a male airline quick connect to the metal shell of an old sparkplug. Rotate engine to TDC with both valves closed, secure crankshaft from turning, screw in the spark plug shell, clip on an airline and apply maybe 50 PSI pressure. If the exhaust valve is bad you will be getting leakage out the exhaust, if the rings are bad you will be getting leakage out the breather. Also looks for leaks around the head gasket with a soap & water solution. I have seen intake valves that weren't seating properly so look for leakage through the carb also.

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Big Jim

07-08-2005 03:09:41




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 Re: hardstarting,sluggish 8hp Briggs in reply to Weirsdale George, 07-07-2005 12:46:15  
I recently had to look up a leakdown tester. Harbor Freight can fix you up with a real one for $50. Not too bad for a speciality insturment.



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teej

07-07-2005 18:02:15




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 Re: hardstarting,sluggish 8hp Briggs in reply to Weirsdale George, 07-07-2005 12:46:15  
Thats a good idea, and should work fine if you don't have the actual tester and regulator manifold.

Something I forgot to mention, was to keep in mind there will be a small amount of leakage that is normal and acceptable. no engine is 100% air tight.

I forgot to mention locking the crankshaft in position, glad you mentioned it. Even with 50 lbs of air pressure, it can turn with considerable force.

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carol Martin

07-07-2005 10:37:09




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 Re: hardstarting,sluggish 8hp Briggs in reply to JCS, 07-06-2005 19:18:47  
I would go to a lawnmower junk yard and get the parts to convert to electric start.. should be able to get a new flywheel and start motor for few bucks.. or look around for old junk riding mower with elect start. most of the parts are interchangable.. I did this on my log splitter> sure is nice...



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MAC,IL

07-07-2005 10:09:32




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 Re: hardstarting,sluggish 8hp Briggs in reply to JCS, 07-06-2005 19:18:47  
I think I would also check the compression. That electronic conversion is a good move, cant tell maybe that will cut down the pull rope time.



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GeorgeW

07-07-2005 06:22:12




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 Re: hardstarting,sluggish 8hp Briggs in reply to JCS, 07-06-2005 19:18:47  
Your description sounds like typical low compression. I know you said "it seems to have plenty of compression as my arm is getting sore pulling on the stupid cord" but unfortunatly that isn't a good way to determine compression. Beg borrow or steal..... no wait don't steal, maybe buy a compression gauge if you don't have one and verify that you do or don't have good compression. Remember, when your pulling on that stupid cord you are probably also having to turn something else besides the engine.....like maybe a hydraulic pump.

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teej

07-07-2005 12:02:00




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 Re: hardstarting,sluggish 8hp Briggs in reply to GeorgeW, 07-07-2005 06:22:12  
a better tool is a leakdown tester. Best you'll see with a compression tester is about 80lbs. The engine has a compression release. If you have less than 50, its definitely low, but you'll never have the true compression reading due to the release mechanism.

leakdown tester would tell you how much is leaking, and where its leaking. It is a bit more expensive however, and an air compressor is needed to pressurize the cylinder.

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