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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

welding split metal on mower deck

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Hurst

06-20-2005 16:19:16




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I was walking around the shop when I noticed that the deck on our Woods RM990 had around an 8" split in the rear of the deck (probably from being driven too fast and bouncing). Any way, what do you all recommend for how to weld it (technique) and what type of rods to use? I have an AC arc welder. I am planning on grinding the paint off around it, welding, chipping off the flux resadue, then sanding it down again so it does not look welded, then applying a fresh coat of paint in the area. I was thinking that either a 7014 or 6013 rod would be the best choice (medium penetration would seem right to me for 7 gague sheet metal, but I am still a novice welder). I have welded with mostly 6011s, so how would I use these others or what rod you feel is the best rod for the application? I don't want to use 7018s becuase I don't have an oven (have about 90 rods that went to waste by sitting out so long). Thanks in advance for the help.

Hurst

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A.C.-T.J.

06-20-2005 19:12:57




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 Re: welding split metal on mower deck in reply to Hurst, 06-20-2005 16:19:16  
It would be best to mig it , but without a mig A 6011 or a 7014 would do fine dont forget to stop drill the end of the crack to keep it from spreading past your weld. T.J.



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Stan in Oly, WA

06-20-2005 18:24:53




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 Re: welding split metal on mower deck in reply to Hurst, 06-20-2005 16:19:16  
Hi, Hurst,

I've spent quite a bit of time recently trying to see what was the thinnest gauge metal I could weld with stick, and what electrode worked best. I haven't had good luck with less than 18 gauge, .05" sheet, though someone with more skill probably would.

I would recommend using 3/32" 6013 at 40 to 50 amps. It would be helpful to clean the underside of the area to be welded and to place some copper against it to draw off some of the heat. I keep meaning to try that as soon as I get a big bar of copper. Tilt the work about 15 degrees and weld down, so you're welding to cool metal.

The most important thing, though, is for you to get some similar metal and practice until you can do it without a single burnthrough. 6013 is pretty accomodating for this kind of project. It's one of the rods in the fast follow category, and was originally developed for fast sheet metal work running on DC negative. It runs fine on AC, however.

You have to move as fast as the rod will put down a bead without skips. That's why you need to practice on some other metal. It's not difficult, but you'll appreciate getting it right the first time on you mower deck.

7 gauge is more than 3 times as thick as 18 gauge, so you might be able to weld it easily without going to the lengths I've described. On the other hand, there's little harm in doing a job better than it has to be. Avoiding a burnthrough would be well worth using extra care.

All the best, Stan

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old

06-20-2005 18:16:28




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 Re: welding split metal on mower deck in reply to Hurst, 06-20-2005 16:19:16  
For it to really hold you will need to do as you said as far as paint removeal. Then after you weld up the crack you will need to put a fish plate over the crack and weld it on. Most cracks like that will recrack soon after being welded because the metal has been weakend by stress. Putting a plte over the crake stops the stress cracks from happening again. Oh by the way I would use 7014 rod. I haven't use any other rod but 7014 and 7018 for 20 years now

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Hurst

06-20-2005 18:54:30




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 Re: welding split metal on mower deck in reply to old, 06-20-2005 18:16:28  
How do you weld with a 7014 rod? I know on the 7018s you are supposed to push the weld while on 6011s you are supposed to drag the weld. What should I do if I use a 7014? How big of a plate would I need to use? I was thinking something around 1 1/2 inches from the crack to edge? Would a plate be necessary if the mower is not being driven too fast or has the damage been done and plating is pretty much inevitable? The only reason I don't really want to plate is because I wanted to make it appear that it had never been welded before incase we trade it in. Also on the plate should I weld a solid bead all the way around or do about a 1 inch bead, then leave a little space and do another 1 inch bead or something like that so that it can flex a little? Thanks for your help.

Hurst

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old

06-20-2005 19:27:40




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 Re: welding split metal on mower deck in reply to Hurst, 06-20-2005 18:54:30  
I run the 7014 either way. As far as the fish plate it needs to be centered over the crack and be about 1/2 wider the the crack. As far as makeing it look good you could always put the plate on the inside. Yep you will need the plate rocks etc hit the inside and that would be enough to start the crack to cracking again. Also weld all the way around the fish plate. You wouldn't believe all the things I rebuild because of people not welding it up right the first time.

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old

06-20-2005 18:16:27




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 Re: welding split metal on mower deck in reply to Hurst, 06-20-2005 16:19:16  
For it to really hold you will need to do as you said as far as paint removeal. Then after you weld up the crack you will need to put a fish plate over the crack and weld it on. Most cracks like that will recrack soon after being welded because the metal has been weakend by stress. Putting a plte over the crake stops the stress cracks from happening again. Oh by the way I would use 7014 rod. I haven't use any other rod but 7014 and 7018 for 20 years now

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