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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

OT, setting basement posts

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David in SC

06-13-2005 03:07:35




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Hello, I am about to have a basement poured and the plan calls for 7 steel teleposts. I intend to do the posts myself using some 4.5" quarter wall tubing that I have. I will weld flanges to one end, then temporarily set them and cut them off after sighting them level. I intend to cut them a little short and make plenty of extra flanges to shim under them to bring them up as needed. I do not know the proper way to set the foundations. Spec calls for 30x30x6 pads. That is straight forward, but how deep do I set these piers? Do I pour them level with the finished floor and set J-bolts in them? Or, do I set them 2+ inches below the finished floor level with J-bolts and have the posts in them when the floor is poured so there is no seams? If so, how much below the finished height do they need to be? I need to be making plans to get this moving as basement folks are planning to move in next week and then it will be up to me to set posts before framers can start. I do not plan to pour the basement floor before the framers move in. Concrete will have to be pumped at all phases anyway due to slight slope on lot - any thoughts on that plan welcomed also.

Any advice or recommended reading welcomed as I have never done some of this. But after pricing materials this weekend, it looks as though more and more of this house may be done by me. (in time)

Thanks in advance for the advice.
David in SC

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Bus Driver

06-14-2005 04:45:46




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 Re: OT, setting basement posts in reply to David in SC, 06-13-2005 03:07:35  
My pads were spec'ed at 24 x 30 x 10. Sounds like you have good material for the posts. I used 3" schedule 40 pipe with 1/2" x 4 1/2" stock for ends. I tried for perfection on length, two of my seven had one 16 gauge shim added when installed. My basement is 10' high. The commercial posts usually are just 11 gauge. We set the forms for the pads with a laser level and carefully filled them with the concrete. The top of the forms was 4" below finished floor level. The posts were not anchored to the pads initially, but the floor has them captured in 4" of concrete- they cannot move now. They are lagged at the top to the beam.

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T_Bone

06-14-2005 01:20:15




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 Re: OT, setting basement posts in reply to David in SC, 06-13-2005 03:07:35  
Hi David,

I'll tell you what we do for setting mfg equipment that viberates alot. This method works well for many years.

We cut the tubing 1" short of final elevation with base plate. Base plate is typical 1/2" plate 3" larger than tube size or 1-1/2" on all sides.

Use four 1/2" red head conrete achors on all four corners of the post, with 1/2" allthread for bolts. Double nut the allthread to install into the red heads, then remove one nut, install column, install lock washer and nut, preset to ruff elevation.

Set framing on the columns then level and plumb columns using the bottom 1/2" nuts.

Once final elevation is set then cut a piece of 1-1/4" pipe spacer for placing under the center column plate, then tighten top column base plate nuts jamming the base plate onto top of the 1-1/4" pipe spacer, recheck frame elevation then grout the column base.

Base plate grout is 3parts sand 1part cement with just enough moisture to make it stick together in a fist ball, no excess water, then pack the underside of the column base tight with grout using a 1/2 rod, finish edges to a 30� slope adding excess water to this outside grout.

You will need to check but I think that a footer will be required under the 30"x30"x6" footer plate, typically 6" larger each side and 6" thick so a 42"x42"x6" under the 30"x30"x6". I'm not a civil engineer so you need someones else's input on what's required.

T_Bone

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Can't even use my name

06-13-2005 19:22:16




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 Re: OT, setting basement posts in reply to David in SC, 06-13-2005 03:07:35  
I am currently building a house basically by myself too. They poured my footers and post pads in one shot with the idea that the finished floor will be a 3/1. One inch on top of the footer and the other three below. The post pads are roughly at the same height as the bottom of the finished floor or 3 inches below top of footer, ROUGHLY. Unless you have a real stickler for footer crew it will vary with each post pad. Just ask the crew how they plan to pour it. I used the adjustable jack posts and used tapcon screws to hold it fast to post pad untill the floor is poured. How long is your house? If you use 3 2x10's fastened together I think you can span 10' between each post or post and wall. 7 posts means you could go to 80'. Oh and it also depends on how you are going to layout your floor joists. Are they going on top of your girder which is what goes on top of the jack posts or will you use joist hangers and put the floor joists against the girder? This is what I did since it eliminated that girder hanging down and takin up head room and please tell me you are pouring 9' walls.

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Bill in NorthCental PA

06-13-2005 10:53:53




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 Re: OT, setting basement posts in reply to David in SC, 06-13-2005 03:07:35  
I would set the top ofthe 30 x 30 pads 6" below the top of finish concrete floor and pour around the posts.

I would paint / treat the posts in contact with the concrete. The posts should be anchor bolted to prevent movement.

Good luck,

Bill



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RandyB

06-13-2005 09:02:03




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 Re: OT, setting basement posts in reply to David in SC, 06-13-2005 03:07:35  
No one has answered your post so I will try and I am sure that will bring a lot of others with their method. First I would check with my building inspector and see what local codes require. If you do not have to have inspection then there are several ways. Most of the footings for the posts are 30X30 and 12 inches thick. Local soil conditions may require more. Some builders pour all the footers and not the basement if they can get access after framing. If not the basement floor will have to be poured first and the footers will be covered by the floor. Either way the best way to get lolly posts right is to use wooden post temporary as floor is leveled and come back and place steel lolly posts. Also you can buy adjustable lolly posts that can be adjusted with a built in jack screw. Are you using a steel beam or timber beams or the new wood I beams? If you have a building inspector he should be helpful, I have had good luck asking.

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