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fencing

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Jack Hamlyn

05-10-2005 17:20:53




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Hello
I didn't know who to specifically address this to, so I hope it can be directed to the correct person or department. I have read several things
concerning stretching individual strand fencing (standard wood brace posts, barbed wire, etc.) and they all say to start from the bottom wire. I am an electrical engineer, and in my mind, you would want to start from the top wire since (from a mechanical engineering standpoint) you would have the most leverage on the brace posts with the top wire, thereby putting the maximum amount of stress on them and therefore the maximum amount of movement towards each other, end to end. Once the brace posts are moved as far as they will go against the side of the posthole, the lower wires would stay tighter as you went down. I know the wire tension is additive, but I can't see how starting from the bottom would be the way to go. Can someone straighten me out on this?
Thanks
Jack Hamlyn

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paul

05-11-2005 15:21:25




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 Re: fencing in reply to Jack Hamlyn, 05-10-2005 17:20:53  
A little easier to work on the fence from the bottom up - tho that tangled wire bit is true....

I suspect mostly one wants the top wire to be tight, the rest just kinda tight. Fence will look good & do it's job.

If you start at the top, as you add the lower wires, the top one will get loose & sag a bit. Not look as good. Works about as well, but looks poorer?

Interesting & good observation tho!

--->Paul

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Charles L.

05-11-2005 08:35:32




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 Re: fencing in reply to Jack Hamlyn, 05-10-2005 17:20:53  
I agree with daddyj. Starting at the top keeps the wires from tangling.



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Jerry/MT

05-10-2005 22:36:20




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 Re: fencing in reply to Jack Hamlyn, 05-10-2005 17:20:53  
Respectfully, I'll give you my experience. First of all, if you build the corners right and let them settle in then it doesn't matter what line you start with, you won't move them enough to notice any wire slack when the fence is up. I have never experienced my corners moving after setting them and letting them settle in. (I use the H brace with the brace post pinned to the upright posts with 7 inch x 1/2 inch pieces of rebar and a double looped 12 gauge high tensile brace wire.)I used to string wire from the bottom up 'cuz I didn't want to be bending down to put the lower wires on and get caught on the upper wires. But I noticed that since my posts weren't exactly at the same depth (+/- 1 inches usually, due to our rocky ground), the fence looked "funny". See I used the ground as a reference to put the first wire up and then used the first wire as a reference for the second wire, etc.

Sooo, I started marking the same distance from the top of post on all the line posts and then strung the top wire to that mark, then used the top wire as a reference for the second wire, etc. Had nothing to do with tension, moving corner posts, etc.. Had everything to do with making it look nice and uniform. Couldn't standing the ribbing I'd have to take from all the neighbors if I didn't have a "good looking fence." Just my two cents.

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Ron in Nebr

05-10-2005 20:28:01




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 Re: fencing in reply to Jack Hamlyn, 05-10-2005 17:20:53  
We've got literally several hundred miles of 3 and 4 wire barbed wire fences here on our ranch in the Nebraska Sandhills.

Here in the sand it's practically a given that your new corner posts are going to move some, especially in the lower areas where the ground's wet. I don't care HOW good your box corners are(well I guess a person could over-engineer something so it was solid, but when you're dealing with as many corners as we are that's not practical).

Tightening the top wire first will put more leverage on the post. But the post will still move some with each additional wire pulling on it. By the time you get to the bottom, if you get each wire as tight as you can pull it, the post might not move much, but 1/4 inch at the bottom is a couple inches at the top, and then the top wire's loose again.

If you tighten the bottom wire first, then you move up, and each wire has more leverage, and when your done the bottom wires are loose again.

What I usually do is get the top wire as tight as I can, "guitar-string" tight, then stretch each lower wire a slight bit less so that hopefully when you release the stretchers the post will spring back enough that the wire above is equally as tight as the one you've just stretched.

Keep a couple things in mind though regarding livestock fencing. First- the fence can only do two things- it'll either work or it won't. If it keeps your critters in, it's working, if they get out, it isn't. Second- if an animal really truly wants to get to the other side of a typical barb-wire fence, it's gonna get there no matter how tight, solid, new, or high it is.

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daddyj

05-10-2005 19:07:07




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 Re: fencing in reply to Jack Hamlyn, 05-10-2005 17:20:53  
Well, I like to think that I am practical. So, when I build barbed wire fence I start with the top strand. This allows me to run out each strand and raise it up without getting it hung in the strand already nailed to the posts. I never thought about if it pulled the braces or not, just how I could keep from tangling the wire. Am I the only one that has had this problem?



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Robhkent

05-10-2005 18:57:33




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 Re: fencing in reply to Jack Hamlyn, 05-10-2005 17:20:53  
Jack:

My experience has been to put in the two corner posts, pull your bottom wire and pull it tight, as much as you can pull, (as long as you use RED Brand wire). This gives you: #1 a straight line to put in all the other posts and #2 it pulls the corners pretty good, and then you start building your corner braces. Wire from bottom to top. My theory has been that if you move your corner brace with the top 4 wires, you didn't build a good enough corner brace. ( I have though, occassionally tightened that bottom wire after putting on the top 4)

Rob

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thurlow

05-10-2005 18:42:29




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 Re: fencing in reply to Jack Hamlyn, 05-10-2005 17:20:53  
You're at the correct person(s)/department; WE KNOW EVERYTHING!!!!! !!!..... ..Well, at least we've got an opinion on everything. Don't know about the electrical engineering aspect of fencing; I'm just an old semi-retired dirt farmer; have put in hundreds of "aitch" type braces and built miles and miles of fence; we always started with the bottom wire as a practical matter; barbs are SHARP; you're gonna get scratched up no matter what, but at least when starting at the bottom, your arms/elbows/sides are not in constant contact with the top wires..... ..... ...

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TomH

05-10-2005 17:44:57




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 Re: fencing in reply to Jack Hamlyn, 05-10-2005 17:20:53  
This is a guess on my part, but the reason is probably because you don't want the posts to be tipped back and forth in the holes. If you pull the top tight first, the tops of the end posts will tend to be pulled toward eachother and force the bottoms of the posts apart (assuming the ends have cross braces, they will act as fulcrums). But if you tighten the bottom first, the bottoms of the posts will be pulled toward eachother and stay there as the top wires are tightened.

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steveormary

05-11-2005 09:47:26




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 Re: fencing in reply to TomH, 05-10-2005 17:44:57  
Fencing;

I marked my posts as to how much post I wanted above ground. I made a jig and had blocks on it to hold wire at its proper hight. When stringing up wire I would start at the bottom and work up.

steveormary



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