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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Anchor Pots

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Slowpoke

05-10-2005 02:02:27




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I'm planning on putting anchor pots in before the shop floor is poured. Does anyone have anchor pots installed? Store bought or home made? How are they laid out? How many are there? What would you do different next time? Have any been pulled out in use?
Thanks.




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evielboweviel

05-14-2005 08:12:36




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 Re: Anchor Pots in reply to Slowpoke, 05-10-2005 02:02:27  
also put in four pads in a rectangular shape that are perfectly level with each other. This gives you a firm support base for building/repairing something in your shop. weld the pads to the rebar and stick a piece of rebar up by the welder to attch ground clamp to. install angle iron at all door edges and a strip or two through the floor all ground back to the welder. Also even though you didin't ask install at least a loop of pipe in the floor for heat to be hooked up later.
Ron

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Slowpoke

05-14-2005 10:03:19




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 Re: Anchor Pots in reply to evielboweviel, 05-14-2005 08:12:36  
The average high in July is 96, the average low is 63. December, average high is 63, low is 35.
I don't think it would be cost effective to use a heated floor in this building of 3400�ft in central California. But your idea of putting angle at door openings and grounding bars for welding is a good one.



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ShepFL

05-11-2005 21:27:23




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 Re: Anchor Pots in reply to Slowpoke, 05-10-2005 02:02:27  
Wish I had thought of them before my pour. When I get the $$ for front of shop will install some there so I have some kind of an anchor.



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Scott in Sandpoint

05-10-2005 13:57:57




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 Re: Anchor Pots in reply to Slowpoke, 05-10-2005 02:02:27  
Slowpoke,

I installed two in a new addition floor for my existing shop.

My "pots" are 12 feet apart, so I placed a 14' section of 2" x 2" angle iron on the ground from pot to pot before the rebar was installed. I then cut 2 12" long sections of 6" black PVC (DWV) and notched them so they would set on top of the angle iron vertically. I then dropped a 2' piece of large log chain down thru the DWV, wrapped it around the angle iron, and bolted the chain together above the angle iron.

Stuff the bottom of the pipes with newspaper to keep the concrete from coming up into the pipe and drop the chains back in. Stuff more newspaper on top.

Before the pour and while the transit was set up, I cut off the DWV 1/4" below the finished floor height and fabricated two 8" square steel 1/4" thick plates and duct taped them to the top of the DWV. Spray the bottom of the plates with PAM before you mount them to keep the concrete from sticking.

Do your pour, and trowel the concrete so it is level with the top of the plates. After the concrete has set up a bit, remove the plates and clean up the area where the plates sit so there aren�t any raised edges and everything is flush.

After all was said and done, I drilled a 2" hole in the center of each plate so I could stick my finger in and remove the plates. Pull out the chain to winch, pull etc. whatever is needed, and drop the chain back in and replace the plates when not in use. With the plates in, I have no problem rolling over them with a cart, creeper etc. and they keep crap from filling in the chain pot.

Sorry for the long reply, but it worked well for me.

Scott

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Slowpoke

05-10-2005 23:52:57




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 Re: Anchor Pots in reply to Scott in Sandpoint, 05-10-2005 13:57:57  
Hi Scott,
I am wondering why you used a 14' piece between the pots. Was it to hold them together during the pour? I thought about using DWV but was afraid that a strong pull on the chain would damage the DWV edge and maybe the concrete around it. Using your method, it would be easy to put several pots on the 2x2 rail. And your explaination is easy to follow, so don't worry about it being too long.

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Scott In Sandpoint

05-11-2005 11:05:43




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 Re: Anchor Pots in reply to Slowpoke, 05-10-2005 23:52:57  
Slowpoke,

The reason for the 2"x2"x14' angle was to give a good solid base for the chain to wrap around. If the DWV is notched tightly around the angle, the concrete won't flow around the chain and you can still reach in the hole to change the chain if need be.

The DWV is surrounded by concrete, so I'm not to worried about chipping it. The top plate covers up the DWV and an additional 2" when not in use, so everything looks nice and tidy.

My pour only dropped about 1/8", so I flush cut the DWV after everything was good and set. The pipe and the recess where the plate fits dropped with the rest of the floor, so the plates fit no matter what the elevation of the concrete is as long as you trim the DWV.Leave the plate in while the concrete sets up, and the plate ledge will keep its same dimension (+-).

I'd rather trim plastic pipe than try to grind concrete!

Scott

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ScottP

05-10-2005 08:32:00




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 Re: Anchor Pots in reply to Slowpoke, 05-10-2005 02:02:27  
Slowpoke
A friend of mine put four in his shop floor.
The only problem he has with them is when the concrete dried it left the pots sticking up about a 1/4" to 3/8". I know he has used them several times and they are still in the floor. Scott



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Slowpoke

05-11-2005 00:29:36




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 Re: Anchor Pots in reply to ScottP, 05-10-2005 08:32:00  
Wow! I didn't know that concrete would shrink that much. But on the other hand, maybe the pots were set too high before the pour. It must have taken a lot of grinding to level them off. I did a Google search for "anchor pots" and found a couple of sites that sell them and also show layouts using 10 to 24 pots, but they are for auto body and chassis repair. Probably too elaborate for the farm shop.

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