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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Difference in L M copper tubing

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bob in ga

05-08-2005 19:23:38




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Can some one tell me the difference between copper tubing that is labled as L vs M. There seems to be a good deal of difference in the price per foot. I am wanting to use some of this as piping for an air compressor.

Thanks

Bob




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720Deere

05-09-2005 14:07:52




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 Re: Difference in L M copper tubing in reply to bob in ga, 05-08-2005 19:23:38  
Do yourself a favor and go with type K. It cost twice as much as type M, but will be virtually bulletproof for your air lines. 95/5 solder will hold many times more pressure than your compressor will produce if the joints are prepped right before soldering. Whatever you do, do not use type M as it will have no margin of safety. Type L will do, but Type K is preferred.



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dr.sportster

05-09-2005 09:33:21




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 Re: Difference in L M copper tubing in reply to bob in ga, 05-08-2005 19:23:38  
Either wall thicknes[L or M] will break open real good if you forget to shut off outside water valves for winter.Done it twice with each thickness of pipe.Only good thing it breaks next to my oxy/acet rig for convenient repair.



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T_Bone

05-09-2005 03:09:33




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 Re: Difference in L M copper tubing in reply to bob in ga, 05-08-2005 19:23:38  
Hi Bob,

CU type k, makes a fine air piping system. Looks good, strong and will handle 1000psi plus depending on installation method.

I like using Harris 15% silver(Ag) solder, about $22/lb, as it's viberation resistant and strong.

Piping system costs are about $100 higher for the typical home shop using heavier CU pipe and Ag solder joints.

Clean the pipe ends with 80grit emery paper and the pipe fittings with a fitting wire brush. NO acid/flux is required provided your joints are precleaned as described as above. Use Oxy/Acet torch with a "O" size brazing tip with using a slightly reducing flame.

Heat the joint with a medium flame until the solder will flow, then move the flame towards the rear of the joint thus sucking in the liquid solder thru out the joint. Add enough solder until a slight solder dimple forms at the bottom of the joint seam, then stop as the joint is full.

Run the main line at a 1/8" drop per 12" of run and take the "T" vertical drops off from the TOP of the main line run with a 6" drain with ball valve at the end of each vertical drop. Take your air supply off 6" above the ball valve as this lets all the inside piping junk (water & Scale) drop to the drain. Use a flex connection to the main line from the compressor, hydraulic hose works well.

A well designed piping system equals more usable CFM you will have by using the least amount of pipe fittings possible to get the job done.

T_Bone

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Rod (NH)

05-08-2005 20:12:22




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 Re: Difference in L M copper tubing in reply to bob in ga, 05-08-2005 19:23:38  
Hi Bob,

L has a thicker wall than M. M would be cheaper than L. Either would be satisfactory for compressed air to 200 psig. The problem comes with any soldered joints. They are usually the weak link as far as pressures and temperatures go. For example, using 50/50 tin/lead solder, the maximum safe working pressure is only 150 psig at 150 deg F for ALL wall thicknesses. I would not recommend any soldered joints at all between the comnpressor and the tank. The use of 95/5 tin/antimony solder for any soldered joints elsewhere would be preferable because it provides better pressure-temperature ratings.

third party image Rod

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Gerald J.

05-08-2005 19:50:39




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 Re: Difference in L M copper tubing in reply to bob in ga, 05-08-2005 19:23:38  
M has a thinner wall. Not rated for as high a pressure. 1/2" type M is rated for 760 psi max at 70 F while 1/2" type L is rated for 1105 psi max at 70 F.

Gerald J.



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