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Case hardening steel

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Lyle

01-08-2001 21:04:47




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I must be getting old and forgetful, and I forgot how to harden steel with heat and liquid. Any help would be appreciated




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Fred OH

01-09-2001 11:28:22




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 Re: case hardening steel in reply to Lyle, 01-08-2001 21:04:47  
Heating tool steel or a carbon steel with enough carbon in it to a dull to medium red heat and quench it in a medium viscosity oil (20 wt.) will harden it. (Some steels are water hardened). The thick parts -not as much, the thin parts -more. You can take an old file and test the hardness, it should not take any metal off. This will make the metal hard, but also brittle. Then, the metal is generally drawn or tempered. For this, the metal is heated slowly and the color bands are watched real close. These are bands of color that start to run through the metal at around 400 degrees F. The first one is a straw colored one followed by a bluish purple depending on temperature. 400 to 550 degrees fahrenheit. A second quench at one of these temperatures will temper the metal. It takes a little of the hardness out and puts toughness in, depending on what is needed. A good machinist's handbook will give the basics of heat treating and tempering. L8R----Fred OH

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Fred OH

01-09-2001 12:06:06




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 Re: Re: case hardening steel in reply to Fred OH, 01-09-2001 11:28:22  
Lyle. after I finished my reply, I noticed that you called for case hardening. This is a process of hardening a steel that doesn't have enough carbon in it to harden with normal methods. As an example, to put a skin of hardness onto cold or hot rolled steel. The oldtimers method of doing this is as follows: Pack the part to be hardened with bones or leather (or anything else that will give up carbon when heated) and heat this to a temperature that will make the steel red hot and let it soak a while and reheat red and quench. This induces a skin of hardness around 1/64" deep to the metal. There are other modern case hardening compounds for sale today, such as Kasenite. They are available through the welding supply houses. As a kicker to this, potassium cyanide will do it too. When I was a young man and went to the pharmacy and ordered this, the Pharmacist raised up his glasses and looked over the counter and said "what do you want that for, boy"? After explaining that I wanted it for heat treating metal, he looked through a two foot long book for a while and finally asked "how much of it do you want"? I think this is the same stuff that they use in the gas chamber and is very poisoness. It should never be used today and I doubt if they would even sell it to you- with all the goons out there. L8R----Fred OH

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Steve U.S. Alloys

01-09-2001 05:52:32




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 Re: case hardening steel in reply to Lyle, 01-08-2001 21:04:47  
Hi Lyle,
The method you mention is flame hardening. It is useful for hardening carbon steels that cannot be heat treated due to low carbon contents of less than 35 points.

Maximum hardness is achieved by heating the carbon steel slightly above it's critical point and quenching it using one of three popular methods. The proper method of cooling is chosen based on the desired end result. Cooling methods are water, air, and molten metal bath. The faster steel is cooled, the harder the outside shell. This will also create the highest degree of brittleness. The slower it is cooled, the less hardness is created in the outside shell and the least amount of brittleness results as well.

Critical temps vary according to C content. Generally, the lower the C content the higher the critical temp.

Case hardening results are best if done in a furnace with a carbon rich atmosphere like CO2. Areas where hardness is undesirable are usually copper coated to prevent the absorption of C into the base metal. The part is heat treated via the quench and temper process. Final tempering improves toughness in the outer shell.

These are basic manufacturing processes that change the grain structure of the metal. For best results, guidelines should be followed in regard to maximum temps and C content.
HTH

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T_Bone

01-09-2001 04:11:52




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 Re: case hardening steel in reply to Lyle, 01-08-2001 21:04:47  
Hi Lyle, glad to see someone else has joined "CRS" If you want the outside harder than the inside then carbon has to be added to metal surface. The old method and still used today is to draw the piece to be harden through a charcoal bed adding carbon to the surface. If your trying to control the "colors" left behind by case hardening then heat within a vacuum chamber works best with the chamber containing carbon, ground up charcoal.

Let this cool slowly after adding carbon, a bed of sand works best, stress reliving, then reheat to a dull orange color in the shade, then water quench, then reheat to straw color in the shade, looks like the color of straw hence the name straw and quench in oil.

You can use nitric acid and sulfuric acid to also control the degree of hardness. As the name implies these are VERY strong acids so great caution is advised.

T_Bone

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Super55

01-08-2001 22:13:32




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 Re: case hardening steel in reply to Lyle, 01-08-2001 21:04:47  
Gentlemen, isn't case hardening steel a process of getting a hard metal surface on a mild steel. The process is done by enclosing the mild steel in a carbon rich airtight container, heated so that the carbon is absorbed into the mild steel making a hard outer surface and malliable tough inner material, then quenched. What you guys are talking about is harding a high carbon steel to begin with. If it is a tool steel, I believe that you have to heat it to a poper range for each particular tool steel or it gets either too brittle or not hard enough.

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Here's all I know (shep)

01-08-2001 21:25:33




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 Re: case hardening steel in reply to Lyle, 01-08-2001 21:04:47  
Heat to a dull red or what they call straw color in shade, then quench in water, reheat to just below straw and oil quench. It's the double heat tempering process that works best. Have fun!

Also check out US Alloys
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