Cutting An Old #2 Fuel Tank

Assuming you're going to cut up the tank despite the good advice not to (given below), is the tank connected to something or in a basement or where you can't drag it to a water source? If so, that's what I would do--get to some water and do a good cleaning. Read the post below where I answered a question last year about cleaning a fuel tank.

If you must cut the tank up, you need to make sure all fuel residue has been removed and add as much water/detergent mix as possible. To gas-free the tank, connect your truck or tractor exhaust to the largest and highest point tank fitting available and let the exhaust vent out the lowest fitting available--like the drain fitting. Continue running the truck until the gas mixture coming out the bottom is gas free. To verify the mixture (assuming you don't have a gas meter), place a milk jug over the outlet fitting and fill it with the gas leaving the tank. Now place a match or lighter over the jug as you squeeze out the gas--the flame should go out instantly. If you get a flame-up, then you haven't removed the explosive gas--continue running the exhaust and check again. Don't make this flame check near the tank!!!

More advice--strap your torch to the longest pole you can find (16' or more) and place the torch flame against the tank to burn the first hole. You should place yourself behind a tree or something solid while you do this--this is just insurance in case you don't do a proper gas-free on the tank and detonation occurs.

Last advice---have help nearby with fire extinguishers and plenty of water and an ambulance wouldn't hurt either. As long as you perform the gas-free correctly, the tank will not ignite because there's no oxygen to support combustion--only carbon monoxide and a few other inert gases.

• Fuel Tank Cleaning

It was bone dry inside with no built up residue. (I had already pumped it dry years ago and kept it vented). I used the dry ice method, (ie 10# distributed down each fitting), to purge any gas fumes. After that I decapitated a 2' X 6' section of the top with a cordless Sawzall and 14 tpi bi metal blades. The cutting went better then I thought. (30 minutes or so and I went thru 3 blades).

Then I filled it with dirt and compacted it as best I could.

I'd be much more concerned with an oil tank since it could have oil residue buildup on the walls.

Good luck.

"Filling it with 275 gallons would be hard. Also I'd have to get rid of all that oily water."

This statement alone says you need to let a professional remove the tank. Why? Well if it's too hard to take the time to do the job correct, what else are you willing you cheat on to get the job done?

Dull a sawsall blade and keep cutting until it's cherry red cause it's too far to travel to get another blade? Is this where you draw the line?

I think you get my point.

Any time you have a carbon source (crude oil, grain dust, saw dust, weeds, etc) and a oxygen source all you need is a source of ignition and we have a boom.

Enclose that carbon and oxygen source inside a container will cause the container to build pressure "if" the fuel finds a ignition source.

When that pressure exceeds the volume of the container then we have a explosion as the pressure has to go some where so it expands the container until the internal pressure is relieved.

Fuel oil tanks are probably more dangerous than most other fuels as they appear empty but in reality oil has built up on the inside walls of the container thus contains more carbon volume.

A Phoenix auto repair shop had a mechanic killed as his co-worker exploded a gas tank that blew a chunk of metal into the air, then came thru a canvas roof 25ft away and hit the other worker on the head killing him. The orginal mechanic that caused the explosion lived, if you can call that living.

This is one area that learning via internet is just plain wrong. Wiring by internet is another.
There's just too much safety to cover in one short thread on the subjects.

And we do want you around next year so we can chat!

T_Bone

We won't need to crucify you, you look like you're going to do a fine job of it yourself.

Mark

Mark

He dug down to the tank, drilled a hole, and sawed an access opening with a Sawzall. He made no special effort to deal with potential for fire or vapors, and apparently does it that way all the time. I'm not that surprised -- fuel oil is not like gasoline and from my observations isn't very likely to form explosive vapors or ignite from sparks, especially when in a cool undergrounad tank.

That said, the "official policy" (and the safest thing to do) is to "inert" the tank, by filling it with something which will not burn and is heavier than air. Dry ice is commonly used, applied at a rate of 1.5 pounds per 100 gallons of tank capacity. Crush it up and try to get it distributed into both ends of the tank. Another possible idea (a little less safe than the dry ice) is to duct vehicle exhaust into one end of the tank, while venting the other.