Novice to expert...elect checks.

One problem may be that they don't have a multimeter nor know how to use it.

Harbor Freight sells a neat little digital multimeter import from Cen-Tech # P30756 for only $4.95 that may be their answer.

Inside the box, with the meter and leads, is a set of instructions as to how it's used. Lot more jubberish there than you need to work on JUST your tractor.

For your tractor you only really need 2 of it's many functions: "20V on the DC Volts scale to make battery voltage checks, and trace power distribution, and 200 Ohms for resistance checks. (Ohm symbol is the Greek character OMEGA which looks like an upside down capital U.)

The functions are governed by "Ohm's law" which is merely Voltage = Current x circuit resistance (And a few other things related to power).

Want more, get on the www and go to the Google Search Engine and type in Ohm's law and get tutored. Not all that complicated once you play with it a little.

Now if you want to move from your tractor to AC volts, like measuring things in the house, I suggest you get tutored on safety as you can shock yourself and it could be lethal. On your tractor I'd say it's near impossible so don't be afraid to dig in.

Go to it.

Mark

References:

Volts (V)= electrical pressure. (Functions like water pressure at your home's water meter.) Have 6 or 12 volts to push current through the tractor's wiring and do work. (Water pressure pushes water thru your water system's pipes.)

Current (A or Amperes) = electrical current, similar to water flowing through your water pipes.

Resistance (R measured in Ohms) is anything that impacts current's ability to run down a wire, like a "ballast resistor" , ignition circuit primary inductor (which has resistance), or the wire it'self.....too small a diameter for the amount of "amperage" needed. (Think of a water line that is too small in diameter that has to run a long distance. Don't get much water out. But if you double the area of the pipe you theoretically get twice the amount of water sort of thing.)

You're right on. Digital Multimeters today are so cheap that no one has any excuse not to own one. I've got a Fluke 77 that I've used for years, but you can get a cheapy today for less than 50 bucks that's just as good.

These things are so cheap I have a half dozen sitting around and they make slick Christmas presents.

Mark

I find that analog meters are not accurate enough to determine battery condition by voltage alone. Even having used the Triplett and Simpson commercial units over the years, it wasn't until the advent of the digital that I quit using the ammeter solely for battery condition/charge state.

If you are getting interference, you can help to reduce it by moving the meter away from the machinery as far as the leads will allow, measuring at the battery terminals rather that alternator output, and putting a .01uf capacitor, 50 v ok,(Radio Shack)across the leads at the meter's input kills a lot of crud too.

Mark

If he/she has problems you know they will be on here asking so we can direct them accordingly.

For what it's worth, I have no problem with THAT meter reading battery voltage (alternator output) with engines running on lawn mowers, tractors, or auto's.

Mark

Mark

BTW, they're often on sale for $3.99 if you wait for it. I have three of them besides the burned out one.

Mark

Joe