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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

design fixed digging attachement

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diggerdave

02-22-2005 08:44:17




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Hi All- got a design question Im hoping someone can shed a little light on. In a nutshell I have probablly 200+ cedars to plant this spring as a screen. Trees will only be 2-3 ft tall. I was thinking I could fabricate some sort of 'fixed' digging arm (maybe 3 or 4 inches wide)that i could mount to my to the botton of the skid loader bucket. I think ive see them in Northern. (I dont have remote hydraulics on the skid, and it wont take me long to plant them so making an elaborate mount etc isnt really worth it to me)Realistically all i need to do is scratch the ground several inches deep to loosen it so I can come by later and jam the tree in. (trees are not B&B, rather will be mostly bare rooted). So if I were to weld something up what would be the most advantageous way or angle to position the "digging" portion of the arm? Or doesnt it matter since I would just use the lift and dump hydraulics on the bobcat to get the best angle. Sorry if this doesnt make sense.. I just dont have the back anymore to dig that many holes..By the way soil is loamy, not rock or hard pan.

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Galen

02-22-2005 19:03:36




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 Re: design fixed digging attachement in reply to diggerdave, 02-22-2005 08:44:17  
Planted several hundred 2 footers with a sub-soiler - works great.



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Dale in WV

02-22-2005 16:23:12




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 Re: design fixed digging attachement in reply to diggerdave, 02-22-2005 08:44:17  
The initial planting of our Christmas Tree Farm was done using something akin to a subsoiler plow behind a tractor. Started with an initial straight path, followed with adjoining rows guided by a homemade guide boom extended from front of the tractor to maintain spacing. Then it was time for the cross pattern cut the same way. Pap used his MF 35 to scratch out the grid. It cut deep enough to plant the seedlings and simultaneously establish that grid. Planted trees at the intersections of the narrow ditches. Its been a while -- most of those trees have long gone into homes and we now do replanting. One method was using the dibbles -- planting bars -- whatever -- manual labor and no fun toys to play with. Another method -- Like JT suggests -- was to use the gas auger. We don"t have the fortune of your loamy soil and that two-man auger on our sometimes rocky/shale soil wears down the user.
((The rental store did advise if we were "lucky" enough to get the drill stuck and the motor kept turning, their current record was two-and-a-half revolutions of the user around the stationary auger....))

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Dale in WV

02-23-2005 15:42:17




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 Re: design fixed digging attachement in reply to Dale in WV, 02-22-2005 16:23:12  
Follow up to previous post. My F-I-L advises the tractor pulled device was only to establish the grid. It was follow-up with the planting bars that did the work. What'd I know. I thought it was done with the subsoiler...
dll



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JT

02-22-2005 15:50:30




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 Re: design fixed digging attachement in reply to diggerdave, 02-22-2005 08:44:17  
From experience, let me tell you something about planting bare root stock. the proper way to do this would be to get a drill with a 7" auger. Drill your hole about 10" deep, put your tree in the hole, past the collar on the tree, fill up with dirt, then pull tree up to collar on tree, then fill with more dirt and tamp down to get all air pockets out. Why, you ask, if you put the tree in the ground fill with dirt, your roots point up, for them to go down to get water and nutrients, they have to do a 180 to get in the right direction, puts a lot of extra stress on the tree. You can rent an engine drill at a rental place and then buy the drill bit. It sure will give you a lot better survival rate than just scratching the ground and stuffing a tree in the hole.

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