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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Sawsmith

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Chuck (CA)

02-12-2005 12:08:52




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I bought a Magna Sawsmith at a yard sale. It's a radial arm saw and has some very cool features, except the blade is a problem. The saw came with one blade, but it's very dull and I can't seem to find a replacement. It has a 1 1/4" arbor and I can't find any. Tried Home Depot and they never even heard of one. I also googled but no luck there either. (I think they stopped making these in the '60's.)
Can anyone help?
Thanks in advance.

Chuck

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Bruce G

03-31-2006 14:15:06




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 Re: Sawsmith in reply to Chuck (CA), 02-12-2005 12:08:52  
Check this site: groups.yahoo.com/group/sawsmith/



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Vern-MI

02-12-2005 15:39:42




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 Re: Sawsmith in reply to Chuck (CA), 02-12-2005 12:08:52  
I have one of those saws. Mine came with the band saw which could be attached on a bracket on the back of the saw and driven from the motor armature opposite the blade end.

I use 10� blades with 5/8� center hole and Magna flanged nuts on both sides of the blade.

The weak points on this saw are the coiled electric switch wire that is wrapped around a piece of steel round stock inside the arm and the variable speed belt drive, P.N. 503257.

The variable speed control should never be adjusted unless the saw is running because it is a variable sheave which changes the blade speed from 1700 up to 6700 RPM.

My saw is the #200000 1-1/8 H.P. 115 volt single phase which sold for $319.00 in 1963. I have replaced the table using a 2' x 4' piece of MDF which is 1-1/2 " thick.

Make sure you feed wood in the right direction when ripping otherwise it will launch the wood like a rocket out the other side of the table.

These saws were made by Magna American Corporation Interstate 75, Evendale - Cincinnati, Ohio. Magna also made the Shopsmith, the Magna Line Band saw, the Choremaster gas tiller, and the Mighty Moe Electric Tiller.

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john rutter

02-01-2006 16:58:12




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 Re: Sawsmith in reply to Vern-MI, 02-12-2005 15:39:42  
looking for a coil wire for the sawsmith radial armsaw. any help is appreciated



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Vern-MI

02-12-2005 15:52:50




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 Re: Sawsmith in reply to Vern-MI, 02-12-2005 15:39:42  
Looked on the net and the 1-1/4" blades are still sold by the Shopsmith people.



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Chuck (CA)

02-12-2005 16:13:33




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 Re: Sawsmith in reply to Vern-MI, 02-12-2005 15:52:50  
Wow!! Thanks so much for all the great info, Vern.
I could have sworn I looked at the Shopsmith site before, but couldn't find that page. I will sure do some ordering. (Maybe after payday. This ain't your ordinary $10.00 blade.)
BTW, I tried a 5/8" blade by inverting the big nut, but it just spun free. Did I do something wrong?

Chuck



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Vern-MI

02-13-2005 05:47:26




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 Re: Sawsmith in reply to Chuck (CA), 02-12-2005 16:13:33  
My saw came with a set of four different types of blade attachment nuts. One set is like the ones that you have for the 1-1/4" center hole blades, one set for 5/8" blades, one set of plain nuts for R.H. thread and one set of plain L.H. thread. The 5/8" blade attachment nuts have an integral washer which is about 2" in diameter and relieved at the center to allow only rim contact with the blade. Two of these washer nuts are used to clamp the blade, one against the other with the blade sandwiched in the middle. This setup works great, the blade runs very true and I can stall the blade without having the blade spin on the shaft.

You are right about the blade cost. I use inexpensive blades for most work and the higher priced hollow ground 1-1/4" blades for finish work.

After installing the larger MDF table I elected to fasten the fence directly to the back edge of the table rather than use the threaded clamps provided by the maunfacturer. Both the table and the fence are MDF to prevent warping and consequent misaligned cuts. Take the time to set up the fore-aft table height or level to make sure that the blade remains at the same height to the table at both ends of the stroke.

I have reversed the 3/8" roller rails on the arm one time as the rails do become worn in time and can cause error in the cut.

The variable speed sheave drive should always be left in a lower speed range for starting the saw motor. If it is not then the saw inrush current will be excessive and cause the circuit breaker to trip next time the saw is started. The saw should be plugged into a dedicated 20 amp circuit breaker to prevent breaker triping.

One final remark: Don't loan it out even to the most trusted friend. Mine came back all out of wack and with some of the blade carbide insets broken and missing. He must have been sawing through nails.

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