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Hardfacing

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Robert J Spence

12-17-2000 17:11:58




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Could someone explain the proper procedure and pattern for hardfacing a mini excavator bucket?




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BlueLight

12-19-2000 12:19:17




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 Re: Hardfacing in reply to Robert J Spence, 12-17-2000 17:11:58  
Just as a matter of trivia, back in the 50's a second option hardfacing method could also be done with a powder material that was mixed into a paste using water. The paste was applied to the surface with the fingers to an even consistancy and allowed to dry a little. A carbon rod was applied in a circular fashion to melt the paste material that did the hardfacing. It was used on plowshares and the like. The paste was applied to 2 or 3 times the thickness of the final deposit.

The fusing process took place just when the paste melts and puddles and the base metal turned
red.

Can't say if the powder is still available.

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Steve U.S. Alloys

12-19-2000 14:19:13




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 Re: Re: Hardfacing in reply to BlueLight, 12-19-2000 12:19:17  
U.S. Alloys carries it as a stock item. We call it sweat on paste. It is premixed so you only need apply it. I have used it by applying it with a trowel or putty knife depending on the size of the job. The hardness is 4100 DPH which is second in hardness only to diamonds. The hardness comes from chromium boride crystals. After it is allowed to dry, it can be fused with the carbon arc (CAW) or TIG process. There is a procedure for sharpening the carbon electrode, polarity, and for placement of the electrode in the holder. It is ideal in certain applications. As with any hardfacing application, thought should precede selection of the hardfacing material. One shouldn't just use any old "ROD" if you really want to get your moneys worth. That "any old rod" is not suitable for "every old application" either.

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Steve U.S. Alloys

12-18-2000 14:21:01




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 Re: Hardfacing in reply to Robert J Spence, 12-17-2000 17:11:58  
Hello Robert,

I have a backhoe bucket pictured. I hope that is correct.

If you want to prevent wear from abrasion and are not concerned with impact, the best choice is tungsten carbide and the second best is vanadium carbide.

The weld metal should be applied with the least amount of penetration possible to avoid dilution. Tungsten carbide is applied as a one pass maximum so the carbides don't sink in the matrix and they must not be overheated as they will re-alloy into a softer material.

For surfacing the teeth, stringer beads deposited from side to side on the top surface will provide excellent wear characteristics. Use a large "X" pattern on the sides of the teeth to allow them to hold material. This causes material to wear against material as opposed to the tooth. Surfacing the bottom leads to a dull tooth.

The pattern for the bucket sides on the inside and outside surfaces is a checkerboard to again allow for material to build-up and protect the metal surface. On the front edge of the bucket sides where it cuts, stringer beads are run close together (Touching, the same as on the teeth.)vertically to protect the very front edge. Weld metal only needs to be deposited in the shiny areas. This should be similar to a triangle in appearance. No need to surface the entirety of the sides. HTH,
Steve
P.S. One of the books I have on our site, "Welding Technology" has a good section on hardfacing. There are some decent illustrations included.

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Greg

12-18-2000 11:57:59




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 Re: Hardfacing in reply to Robert J Spence, 12-17-2000 17:11:58  
Do you have to use a DC welder to hard surface or can it also be done with an AC Stick machine? Is a hardsurface rod carbide some similar material?

I have some things that I need to hardsurface like the cutting edge of a loader bucket. Any info would be appreciated.



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Steve U.S. Alloys

12-18-2000 13:57:02




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 Re: Re: Hardfacing in reply to Greg, 12-18-2000 11:57:59  
Greg,
I'll try to answer your questions the way I do for my customers.
Hard facing can be done with both AC and DC polarity stick welders. (You can also use wire welders, arc guns, powder torches, acetylene torch, submerged arc, many other methods.)

There are many types of weld metal chemistries designed for hardfacing. You mentioned carbides. There are several types of metals that carbides are derived from. Not all hardfacing or surfacing is done with carbides. It all depends on what caused the wear. The proper material for surfacing is chosen based on the cause or combinations of causes.

If your bucket is used for loose material, a pattern which protects the sides is in order as well as a pattern for sustaining the cutting edge and prolonging life of the entire assembly.

Most people replace severely worn edges these days due to the availablity of inexpensive replacement parts. Hardfacing is often a savings in the prevention of severe wear from the outset.
Steve

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T_Bone

12-18-2000 08:41:35




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 Re: Hardfacing in reply to Robert J Spence, 12-17-2000 17:11:58  
Hi Robert, It depends on whether or not the bucket has been hardfaced before. If it hasn't then clean the base metal really good 2" on either side of of weld area. If a oily surface remove with a torch flame. Then use Lincoln hardfacing rod, I can't remember the rod number, but the one for abrasion surfacing. You can use stringers or a weave bead but only weave 8 times the the rod diameter in width. I like weave to hardsurface width then run a single zig-zag bead over the entire hardsurface area.

If the bucket has been hardsurfaced before or has splits then I would preheat 300 to 500 degrees then weld, then stress releive buy postheating 800 to 1300 degrees and cooling slowly by running the bucket into a pile of sand to cool.

Have fun!

T_Bone

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Fred OH

12-19-2000 04:47:41




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 Re: Re: Hardfacing in reply to T_Bone, 12-18-2000 08:41:35  
T bone, the Lincoln rod that you referred to is Abrasoweld. It always was the cheapest way to hardcoat and around here we used it for everything from plow shares to digger teeth. I've even used it for shear blade in a 50 ton punch press. 1/8 to 3/16", use biggest size you can. Runs equally well on AC or DC. No need to worry if it's been hardcoated before, just wire brush off and weld again. It'll be more than good enough for buckets and digging teeth. L8R----Fred OH

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T_Bone

12-19-2000 19:08:11




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 Re: Re: Re: Hardfacing in reply to Fred OH, 12-19-2000 04:47:41  
Hi Fred, That could be the rod. It's just been too long since the last job to rememeber. The reason I suggested the preheat/postheat on previous welded or split metal is too stress releive before new welds are laid. I found the repairs last longer without respliting.

T_Bone



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