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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Oil Furnace Settings

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Dave2pa

01-25-2005 12:08:27




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hello
can anyone tell the the proper settings for an oil furnace in a house,, just installed a new pump ,it has a new transformer, control box and motor,all over the last 2 years . Furnace will not come on at times .Nozzle is a .65 - 80 A what is correct Pressure ,also what is correct electrode Position and gap??
thank you .
It will usually light after you hit the reset once or twice




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Davidj

01-26-2005 06:41:58




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 Re: Oil Furnace Settings in reply to Dave2pa, 01-25-2005 12:08:27  
Make sure you have good draft too. I just graduated to an insulated chimney from a stack of stovepipes and this is the first year I can depend on my furnace. Used to have to use the reset to fire up if we were burning wood for a few days. Too cold a chimney and there"d be a backdraft and no furnace. Get a guy in to do the initial setting as you don"t want to burn more oil than you have to. Good luck

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jdemaris

01-26-2005 06:16:41




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 Re: Oil Furnace Settings in reply to Dave2pa, 01-25-2005 12:08:27  
There IS no standard universal setting - you need to look at the specs. that are specific for your burner assembly - including the electrode gap, forward distance from the nozzle, nozzle orifice size, nozzle spray angle, etc. And, if it has a cad. cell like most - it must be clean, and if it's an older model with a stack sensor - that must be working properly. And, besides all that - you didn't mention if the furnace is a boiler or hot-air. If it's hot air, and there are any breaks in the refractory blanket (if it has one), it won't function consistently no matter what you do. If you adjust it hot and running, later on it probably will fail to start once it's been off for a while - and have to be reset. And, if the blanket has been broken for too long, you'll get a hole burned through the heat-exchanger. When this happens, you be finding soot in the hot-air ducts. I've had to patch quite a few of them, some in almost new furnaces.

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buickanddeere

01-25-2005 20:18:21




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 Re: Oil Furnace Settings in reply to Dave2pa, 01-25-2005 12:08:27  
Too much air, more than just what is required for "complete" combustion, wastes money. The extra air just cools the combustion chamber and carries the heat out the stack. Draws more cool air into the house too.



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Bus Driver

01-25-2005 16:05:23




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 Re: Oil Furnace Settings in reply to Dave2pa, 01-25-2005 12:08:27  
Must be small house to use a .65 nozzle. The burner assembly should have posted the maximum nozzle size and the furnace itself should have listed the BTU per hour output. 1 GPH nozzle is about 100K BTU per hour furnace output. Be sure not to oversize the nozzle for the furnace. On a poorly insulated house of 820 square feet, the nozzle was 1 GPH. I installed a .85 GPH and boosted the pump to 110 PSI for better fuel atomization. It did work more efficiently. But do not tinker with furnace settings unless you really understand the implications of doing so.

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Jay (ND)

01-25-2005 14:40:49




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 Re: Oil Furnace Settings in reply to Dave2pa, 01-25-2005 12:08:27  
Bob's settings are roughly right for most applications. Having said that - get a pro in to check it. Even though the pump is supposed to deliver 100psi, if it can't do that and deliver a constant rate of fuel, it's junk (yes, it's possible). As Bob said, you may have a weak transformer, and you don't want a jolt from that, low amps, but 10,000 volts will make you take notice. Cracked eletrodes, dirty eye, bad stack switch, etc. etc. Besides all of that, are you positive that is the correct nozzle for that furnace? There are just too many things that need to be looked at. A pro can do it in no time flat. Besides, if you do get it "sorta" running, next time it may soot up the house and the Mrs won't be happy.

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paul

01-26-2005 06:31:50




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 Re: Oil Furnace Settings in reply to Jay (ND), 01-25-2005 14:40:49  
Yup. All of that. Get a pro, watch him.

Generally mine fiddles with the electrodes as the biggest problem - said they should probably be replaced next year (12 years old or so). Nozzle replaced every 2 years, soot cleaned out.

There are a few different styles of burners, so hard to give much good advise without make & model. And many things to check & adjust. For me here in Minnesota anyhow, bad news if it doesn't work, so best to have a pro do it right.

I've learned a lot listening to my pro, but still want him to get it right for me. I'm forunate to have a nice guy that does good work, $90 a trip.

--->Paul

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Bob

01-25-2005 13:13:59




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 Re: Oil Furnace Settings in reply to Dave2pa, 01-25-2005 12:08:27  
100 PSI is the standard oil pressure for a typical residential furnace.

The "old standby" electrode setting is centered 1/2" above spray hole in nozzle, 1/8" gap and 1/8" ahead of nozzle.

Certain high efficiency burners have slighly different specs, however.

If you have a weak transformer, intermittant trouble with it lighting is typical. Also, if the cimbustion air is set way too high, lighting will not be dependable.

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