Plumbing shop for air

I have decided to go with 1/2" galvanized-fits my needs the best. Basically I am looking at 40x50 loop with approximately 8-10 "drops".

I haven't however done ANY work in the past with galvanized pipe-or basically anything other than PVC...so total rookie here.

At this point I have 3 questions:

1) What tools will I need other than a pipe threader, cutter (or hacksaw), files, and a pipe vise?

2) What do you recommend to seal the joints when using galvanized for air?

3) Relatively speaking is this going to be pretty straightforward or are there a lot of hidden "gotcha" factors?

Any input would be much appreciated!

Paul

Thanks especially to the guy who posted the link to the diagram-very helpful.

I think I have a little more planning to do before I acutally start....no doubt you all saved me from a couple mistakes.

• Piping layout

As mentioned earlier make sure to use drip legs to collect condensate. I put them in at all points where the pipe went up or down, ie over doors etc.

Tools to use are as you mentioned with these comments. Definatly use a pipe cutter makes starting the threader easier. Might want to use a reamer to take the inner burrs off. As earlier I used Rectorseal for sealant works well when you are doing a lot of plumbing.

One more comment I would make. Seriously consider putting some couplers outside in strategic locations. These will need their own drip legs out side also. I put one in the storage side of ours and when we use it it is indespensable. Wish I had put one by the main door also.

Cut and fit your own pipe!! Tools aren't that expensive or can be rented maybe borrowed where you buy the pipe. If you have the hardware store do the cutting and threading you will be spending all your time on the road.

HTH

jt

I used 1 inch copper for my main line, to allow for pleanty of airflow capacity and also for surface to cool the compressed air. I gave the main line a fair slope and a large condensation collector with a valve at the lowest end. The main line goes around 3 sides of my shop, with valved and drip looped quick connectors set up in various places. The condensation connector works great, although I have found that I need to open up the valve if it really freezes in the shop--the first one cracked when it froze. I used 50-50 solder on the joints, which I think is a lot easier to use than the kind of solder you are now supposed to use on drinking water pipes.

Using copper makes it easy to repair or modify your system if you want or need to. You can just cut it and solder in a new fitting rather than having to disassemble a whole lot of threaded joints, which can be a real bear!

Good luck, I hope you like your system as much as I do mine.

Gerald J.

You are doing it correctly. An air line that is subject to condensation should always slope down in the direction of air flow - never the other way. No matter what anyone else says. That's not only applicable to air flow but any flow where a two phase situation may exist. The reason is to promote drainage of condensate, not restrict it. Whenever the flow of condensate is opposite the flow of air, the condensate flow is no longer free draining and is restricted not promoted. A professionally designed system will always follow this criteria. That's why you see it that way at the Sharp web site - down in the direction of flow.

If you want it to look professional use copper and it is about same price