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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Paint For Inside Shop

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Steve-Maine

01-16-2005 07:33:33




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I have a new 32 x50 shop that I want to paint the sheetrock white semi-gloss oil base. I have always used Benjamin Moore in the house with great results. But can't afford to do the barn interior with high price paint. What have you people used that covers good and can be washed?
Thanks in advance.




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I would suggest

01-16-2005 16:02:46




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 Re: Paint For Inside Shop in reply to Steve-Maine, 01-16-2005 07:33:33  

that you stay with the Benjamine Moore that you like. I also like their products. They have a line of paint mainly for contractors but most stores will sell to anyone. This is called Super Spec. and is excellent paint.



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Glenn F.

01-16-2005 13:42:08




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 Re: Paint For Inside Shop in reply to Steve-Maine, 01-16-2005 07:33:33  
Here's what I did...I went to our local high school. In their storage rooms they had GALLONS of good quality white/off white left over paint, some cans never opened. They were glad to see me haul it away! Works for me!! Glenn F.



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dr.sportster

01-18-2005 19:12:19




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 Re: Paint For Inside Shop in reply to Glenn F., 01-16-2005 13:42:08  
I too have gotten good free school paint they were glad to see go.Good silver from the chain link fence paint job and some really cool 50s like aquamarine paint.It was Con-Lux.They thanked me for taking it.



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greenbeanman in Kansas

01-16-2005 12:13:41




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 Re: Paint For Inside Shop in reply to Steve-Maine, 01-16-2005 07:33:33  
You may very well be able to get a quantity (contractor's) discount which would cheapen the price considerably.

A little off the topic of your thread, but I was surprised to learn a year ago that the big box stores will add color pigment of your choice to five gallon pails of paint for no extra charge.
I was looking at painting a garage to match my house, and five gallon buckets of paint was on sale.

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Billy NY

01-16-2005 11:01:16




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 Re: Paint For Inside Shop in reply to Steve-Maine, 01-16-2005 07:33:33  
Benjamin Moore has a latex or acrylic contractor line, that seems to cover well. The substrate material,(wall type) condition, and surface preparation is important to your results. I do a fair amount of painting, especially when not at my regular gig, to pay the bills etc., and I'm getting good results with the above product. I do a lot of ceilings in flat, and walls in pearl finish, which has a little sheen to it, and can be washed. In the shop you will want something that will seal a drywall type construction, and bond well to gypsum based joint compound used on the joints and fasteners. If it has not been painted yet, primer is highly recommended, I've often done 2 coats of primer as the new drywall really soaks up the 1st coat, makes the top coat cover better if the colors are close. Adhesion, and bond strength is important, I know if gypsum drywall and joint compound takes on moisture, the paint is likely to lose it's bond and peel, so the product system you choose and the application process is key to getting good results, anything with more of a sheen will be easier to clean, and the other way around. Best to do your research 1st, and see what product fits your condtions the best, if you cheap out and the product fails, it will have been far better to spend a little more up front or do it in increments to keep the costs managable. If you have to do it over, it will always cost more in the long run. I find a lot of people are in a hurry, rush this, rush that, don't take a little time to do the research, and the results are usually disappointing, so before spendin a dime, best to get the benefit of the doubt and read up a little on the products being considered.

The best thing you can do is ask the supplier for spec. sheets/submittal data, on a product you are considering, it's usually best to deal with a contractor type supply house, they are usually the most knowlegeable as mentioned before. In the private and or public sector type work arena, many times the project specifications require the contractor to prepare and submit a package of product data for review by the architect, especially if submitted as " an as equal" and not the specified product, for subsequent approval. On the spec. sheets you will find quite a bit of information, one item is the Percentage of Solids by Volume, which I believe is the amount of pigment in the paint. You can compare amongst other products to see what has the highest amount by volume, and what you are paying for it. This I believe is one way to measure what will give you better coverage. These product data sheets are handy, you should be able to find them on the Mfr.'s websites, and any contractor supply house should be able to provide this information.

Surface preparation, application per mfr.instructions is key to making sure the application does what it is intended to do, not good to mix manufacturers, at least I try not to to, for compatibility reasons, use the mfr.'s primer 1st then paint. Good to get the correct mil. thickness as well when applying so use what is recommended. It is best to have your substrate identified and the paint system to match your performance requirements, the supply house should be able to help you make the best decision on what to use. If not, get a hold of a Mfr.'s rep, they are always trying to sell, should be more than willing to help.

Also,not sure if you have heat in the shop or are using temporary heat during construction or what the case may be, but temperature and moisture is something to consider when doing the application, you want the place dry & warm, well ahead of the application. I do recall temporary heat causing a yellowing effect on a paint system once, I believe the substrate was metal and the alklyd based paint was some heavy duty specified product approved for use in inmate cells on new correctional facility buildings we were doing, the cells were steel, and the temp. heat in the new building raised the carbon dioxide levels, which was determined to cause the color to yellow, kind of a unique situation, was good to remember and ask about prior to doing work in similar conditions in the future.

In any event a few simple questions and some help from the supplier, you should be able to get what you are looking for and be satisfied with the results!

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CNKS

01-16-2005 08:51:37




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 Re: Paint For Inside Shop in reply to Steve-Maine, 01-16-2005 07:33:33  
I painted the OSB in mine with flat latex Wal-Mart paint, looks good after 3 years, can't speak for how long it will last. Washes fairly well. Don't want to start an oil base vs latex war, but the modern latex paints are pretty durable, and are one heck of a lot easier to clean up after. Did the inside walls of my house with the same stuff in 2000, walls are still ok, need touching up occasionally. Scuffs and stains that have not damaged the sheet rock clean up easily.

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Chuck(VA)

01-16-2005 08:36:57




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 Re: Paint For Inside Shop in reply to Steve-Maine, 01-16-2005 07:33:33  
I painted the inside of a shed with the original KILZ oil based white primer. Did not top coat and got satifactory results. Sealed the drywall and prevents mold and moisture infiltration. The waterbased KILZ II does not work as good without a top coat.



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dr.sportster

01-16-2005 08:29:42




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 Re: Paint For Inside Shop in reply to Steve-Maine, 01-16-2005 07:33:33  
Cheapest way might be a five gallon size of whatever brand you use.If you go to a store that supplies pro painters they are usually more knowledgable and helpful than then home centers.The major brands may have economy lines for this type of usage.[Just a tip anything but white will absorb more lighting]For example brown walls will take 80% of lights .White gives the best lighting back to the work area.Not a painter by trade just trying to be helpful.

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MAC,IL

01-16-2005 08:07:27




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 Re: Paint For Inside Shop in reply to Steve-Maine, 01-16-2005 07:33:33  
Steve: I have always had good results with K-Mart paint. Seems it is made by dutch boy, for some reason or another it seems sherwyn-williams comes into the picture here somewhere? Also at times I have used S&W paint, decent also and if you watch, they have sales all the time. I dont think their alkyd colored stain can be beat for outside wood buildings.



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