Another R12 to R134 question

And on vacuuming the system, does that need to be done if the condenser was damaged (minor collision)? Seems like, if the system vented itself, then one wouldn't need to do the vacuuming thing.

Comments appreciated, as always.

~ja

Thanks again ..
~ja

You should replace the drier, but the world won't end if you don't. If the sytem has been sitting open like you describe, it's probably rather full of water and will be non functional at best, detremental at worse.

You vacuum down to completely evacuate the system. Having it full of air will screw it up. It has to be drawn down prior to initial charge.

The battle over changing oil continues to rage on. I have not done so on any vehicle I or friends have converted to R134 using the off the shelf Walmart kit. No failures to date in any application. Ymmv I suppose.

There are many alternatives to R134. Some legal, some not, some safe, some not (legal and safe are two different things), some effective, some not. Your choice which way you go.

In most cases an R12 system converted to R134 will perform adequately. However, replacing the metering valve or orifice (depends on how system is configured) *can* help the system function better. Let the price of the part and difficulty of replacement dictate your decision.

Take a look over on the Ford board, and you'll find several posts from John A (TX). And there are a few on the 'N' board as well as this one.

So - Hey! - That's what gives.

>And on vacuuming the system, does that need to be >done if the condenser was damaged (minor >collision)? Seems like, if the system vented >itself, then one wouldn't need to do the vacuuming >thing.

>Comments appreciated, as always.

See for ASOCKET R!" Blackhole to beta247 http://mitglied.lycos.de/beta247

Euer Kaesebleig

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The drier should be changed because if the system had mineral oil in it, the whole system has it in.
If'n you convert, gett'n the mineral oil OUT will have to be done. The dryer also will be an accumulator of oil.

The new gas, r-134 willl not go to good if there is any mineral oil left in the system.

Actually, it is a pretty hard task to convet.

Therefore, I would find a substitute for the R-12. Unfortunately, since I don't do any auto work, anymore, I don't know the names of the direct "drop-ins".

I am not qualified in the state of PA to do car work. No state license. Just my own equipment. No tractors, either!!!!! !!!!! !

John,PA

What I think I'm concluding thus far is that the conversion will go something like this:
a) Have the system evacuated/vacuumed using the old R12 fittings;
b) Put on new fittings, a new dryer and an orifice adapter that goes in the condenser;
c) Have a second vacuum pulled & then add correct amounts of PAG oil & R134.

That sound about right? Again, thanks to all who are trying to hep me out. (Sure wish she hadn't hit that dang cow!)

~ja

For coversions where some mineral oil remains, MOST DEFINITELY use Polyol Ester oil.

....Bob, who is certified in mobile and stationary refrigeration service.

OK says, I, at a recent seminar<

I just dumped a load of FREON OUT, so's I could put a little REFRIGERANT IN. So, far, I haven't gotten fined, $10,000.00.

The presenterator hasn't showed up since.

Got FREE lunch, though. YIP, John,PA
That was back in Sept. I forgit what year. (grin)

You ALWAYS want to evacuate ("vacuum") the system to get rid of moisture, even MORE SO after it has been damaged and open to the air!

Furthermore, air is non-condensable, and the presence of air makes the compressor work to try to condense the air, which just springs back, resulting in a seriously overworked compressor, and poor cooling performance. Evacuating removes this air, and a THOROUGH evacuation will remove any moisture from the system by reducing the boiling point of water to room temperature.

It is recommended to remove the compressor, and drain as much mineraql oil out as possible, install an appropriate amount of polyol ester oil, and then evacuate the system and recharge.

Here's a link to a mobile A/C board:

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