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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Saftey Question

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Mitchissippi

12-27-2004 21:22:27




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Howdy Fellers.

I'm converting the 22 x 8 storage room on my carport, to a temporary toy tractor shop. It'll eventually go on to be storage, but since we built this house in 1999, it's been full of junk. I can't aford to build a separate building right now, and I'd like to finish most of my projects for our February show.

Got most of the junk out last week. Today, I put up most of the insulation and wall board. I'll finish that up tomorrow, and hopefully get the heater hooked up.

I will heat it with a butane 3 panel radiant heater (open flame pilot light). I'm gonna build a small paint booth with an exhaust inside this room - Here's my saftey question. Do you guys think I'll be safe heating my room to say 80 degrees, turning off the heater (including the pilot light), doing my spraying, then waiting a half hour or so with the exhaust running, and cranking my heater back up?

Mitch

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Mitchissippi

12-28-2004 21:03:49




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 More details and ideas in reply to Mitchissippi, 12-27-2004 21:22:27  
I honestly hadn't thought about how this project would / might affect my insurance. But since y'all have brought it up, here's a little more info - and I'm not saying any of this will make any difference - just looking for well founding advise.

My work shop is an enclosed 8 x 22 on one end of an open, semi-detacted carport. The structure is 10 feet away from my house and is connected a 10 foot wide roof and wooden steps.

The spray booth I was thinking of constructing is something like a 36" x 36" x 36" to be used to paint 1/16th scale toy tractors. I need some advice on choosing a fan motor / vent piping arrangement.

As for the paint I use, I use enamel rattle cans from JD or CaseIH.

I'll look into this insurance deal. I ain't against building a separate structure. Something like a 8 foot x 8 foot walk-in, free-standing outhouse. Could even put in a better ventilation system.

Hmmm . . . the more I think about it, the more questions I have.

Oh well, . . . ice cream time!

Mitch

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CNKS

12-29-2004 06:27:34




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 Re: More details and ideas in reply to Mitchissippi, 12-28-2004 21:03:49  
For the type booth you are talking about, just do a search for "paint booths", or "hobby paint booths", etc. I came across several such sites when I was researching mine. You can buy small bench type booths for about $1500, maybe less for the size you want, I don't remember the price; your search will bring those up too. As to insurance, I not sure your insurance company cares how big or small it is, just don't blow it up. Many people have done what you plan to do. There are also hobby discussion forums on that topic. I am not sure you will be able to find an explosion proof fan for a booth that small, I have 2-16" ones that are variable speed, manufacturer is Jenny. Specifications vary, but I believe the OSHA spec is 150 ft/min for that size booth. The size fan you need for a 3x3 opening is simply 3x3x150 = 1350 cu ft/minute. One of my fans, being variable speed, will meet that spec, I don't know if this is applicable to your situation. The fan is $500+. Jenny also makes a single speed for about $400 that may be too large. I don't know. I would not pay much attention to what Jenny tells you about what you need as they don't know a thing about spray booths, even though they make fans. They will give you numbers for a "spray room", or a place where you spray, but it is not a booth -- the numbers according to their formula are wrong. HOWEVER, for what you want to do with rattle cans, a fan in your room, or a spray room, may be sufficient, since you are not spraying large volumes of paint. With a spray gun, no. There are also sealed fans where the wiring is covered, technically these are not rated explosion proof. The motors on mine are enclosed in heavy gauge steel, the wiring, while probably not rated explosion proof, is run through black plumbing pipe into the walls. There are no exposed wires. There is no way my fans can cause an explosion or fire, the ignition source must come from someplace else. The booth also needs to be grounded. You should also consider static electricity. Having said all this, for what you are doing, I'm not sure you need anything. Unless you are spraying constantly, just wear a charcoal mask, turn off your heat, spray, and open a window. As the saying goes, "I have now told you more than I know.".

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Mitchissippi

12-29-2004 07:28:03




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 Re: More details and ideas in reply to CNKS, 12-29-2004 06:27:34  
Thanks for the info. I'm searching the hobby sites now. If I ever get around to building a real shop for real tractors, I'd like to include a spray booth. My first concern is saftey.

Mitch



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dr.sportster

12-29-2004 09:11:52




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 Re: More details and ideas in reply to Mitchissippi, 12-29-2004 07:28:03  
CNKS is correct stating that plenty of us have done home paint jobs without incidence or disaster.Everyone on these forums likes to caution others about saftey hazards,however,to a degree we are all risk takers.Im just saying the paints toxic[hardener]the stink goes everywhere,overspray goes everywhere.[The dry product is almost nontoxic]and the heated pro booth at my local body shop does beautiful results at a good price.The worse thing that can happen is an explosion.How often this happens I dont know.Maybe very rarely but it is a risk.

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Mitchissippi

12-29-2004 10:54:35




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 Re: More details and ideas in reply to dr.sportster, 12-29-2004 09:11:52  
I do agree with you. And I DO appreciate all the posts concerning saftey. I ain't above being educated!



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paul

12-29-2004 12:45:17




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 Re: More details and ideas in reply to Mitchissippi, 12-29-2004 10:54:35  
This sure has turned into a friendly & interesting thread. Sometimes we all go a little overboard one way or the other (electrical questions often go that way - so why can't I interchange the ground & nuetral wires???? :), nice to see good solid suggestions & links, without a lot of gnashing teeth. :)

--->Paul



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Mitchissippi

12-30-2004 05:32:48




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 Well, it's Christmas . . . . in reply to paul, 12-29-2004 12:45:17  
.



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CNKS

12-28-2004 13:54:42




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to Mitchissippi, 12-27-2004 21:22:27  
I have painted in a 30x30 sq foot part of my building. It has a 50000 btu vented gas-fired heater, electric pilot. I heat the room, turn off the heat, paint, open the doors, wait about 15 minutes, turn on the switch to the heat, and leave until the heat comes on (just in case). It works, but is a pain in the patoot. I have since built a 8W x 8H x 10W walk in booth, in the same room. Can't paint the tractor chassis in it, but most of the time I spend painting is painting the parts I have taken off the tractor. However, I have not had a chance to use it yet. It does have true explosion-proof fans, and the lights and wiring are sealed off from the booth, but the lights and wiring are NOT explosion-proof according to code. My ducks are lined up as good as I can get them for a homemade booth. BUT, the booth is not insurable and does not meet code. Meeting code is impossible with a homemade booth, and your insurance company will not insure it, code or not. I do not intend to have as accident (no one does). This is in an isolated building, I would never do this type of thing in the garage attached to my house. I consider this to be safer than my old way of painting, with exposed wiring on fans, lights and heat. If you do this and use an exhaust fan, the fan MUST be explosion proof because you are pulling all the fumes right around the motor. In an open room, and least the fumes are spread around. I posted on this board nearly a year ago and asked the same questions you did, and pretty well got shot down. I thought a long time about doing it and read everything I could find about paint booths. You must go into this with your eyes open. There is much more to it than making an enclosure and cutting a hole in the wall for a fan.

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buickanddeere

12-28-2004 10:23:29




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to Mitchissippi, 12-27-2004 21:22:27  
If you can work around the insurance problem. Then keeping the spary booth under negative pressure at all times. And clean breathing air is essential. Check around the area for any retired bodyshop/painters from current or past businesses. Odds are you will have a tough time finding any that are not dead or tied to an O2 tank. Electric baseboard heaters with an explosion resistant thermostat having the remote temp sensing bulb will work OK.

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Mike M

12-28-2004 09:59:21




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to Mitchissippi, 12-27-2004 21:22:27  
On the heater issue check out a Williams brand for an area that small they offer heaters that draw in air from the outside and vent outside. Or insulate good and use a 1500 watt electric heater,you will be surprised how much heat they give off.



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Michael_E_Tx

12-28-2004 09:40:58




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to Mitchissippi, 12-27-2004 21:22:27  
First off, no opinion about the insurance issue. Second, sorry this is so long.

Having done what you are proposing, here are my thoughts. What kind of paint will you be applying? This is important for a couple of reasons.

If, by any chance, it is lacquer, nitrocellulose or acrylic, you don't want the surface to be painted to drop below about 60 degrees before, during or after, until the finish is dry to the touch or you will get some serious fogging of the surface, which is permanent.

If you plan to spray enamel, is it plain ole or catalyzed (with hardener)? All hardener additives are cyanoacrylate based and you DO NOT want to breath these fumes whatsoever! That means even with good ventilation! The same thing is true of modern two part polyurethane automotive paints.

That said, any catalyzed or two part enamel will dry faster than a plain ole enamel. Several times faster. Plain ole acrylic enamel may take two or three hours to dry to the point where you can safely lower the temp (by exhaust) and/or not get dust in your freshly painted surface.

So no matter what paint you use, my rule of thumb is that you ought not turn on your exhaust fan until the surface is dry to the touch. Spray it and leave it. When surface is dry, exhaust to your hearts content, although half an hour to an hour should be plenty with a decent box fan.

In my opinion, smell is not a good measure of fumes. All paints will still "smell" long after the danger of explosive fumes is over.

I have dealt with the issue of how to avoid breathing paint fumes under these less than optimal conditions by using a full hood (I have a full beard) and outside supplied air. This requires a special air compressor meant to supply breathable air. Under no circumstances should you try to jury rig a supply line from a regular oil type compressor or you will be breathing air with tiny, but unhealthy for your lungs, oil droplets. Not good. A compressor like this is sort of pricey, but in my opinion a good one time investment for all kinds of noxious fumes one may encounter.

Hope you post about how this turns out. Some pictures of your freshly painted toy tractors would be nice. Good luck. Hope I've been of some help.

Mike

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rickg

12-28-2004 07:37:57




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to Mitchissippi, 12-27-2004 21:22:27  
As a former insurance adjuster I can promise you that your insurance company will gladly accept your premiums (in the don"t ask scenario)but should you have a fire related claim and the adjuster sees what you have there one of two things will happen. 1. claim be denied because of YOUR negligence and insurance canceled. 2. claim will be paid and insurance canceled. Insurance companies now have a computer base of who was cancelled and why so getting new insurance will not be impossible but the new company will know what happened and will be very restrictive of what they will cover and your premiums will be what they call in the High Risk category.

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Charles (in GA)

12-28-2004 07:01:25




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to Mitchissippi, 12-27-2004 21:22:27  
I think you should reconsider your form of heat. While not explosion proof (thermostats arc during normal open and close of the contacts) some form of electric heat, baseboard radiant heat, overhead heat like used in bathrooms, etc, would be safer.

Where is your hot water heater? and is it gas? Any way at all for the fumes to get to it?

Charles



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JT

12-28-2004 06:42:15




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to Mitchissippi, 12-27-2004 21:22:27  
You are asking for problems:
1. insurance man will not agree or anything, might even cancel policy on rest of house and property. Need to check there first.
2. If you are painting, then opening windows to get rid of fumes, it will take quite a long time to get the fumes out, There can still be fumes in the uncured paint that could possibly explode. If you open windows, doors, etc., you will lower temperature in the building, paint will not fully cure because to cold, then when you heat back up, the paint gets warm puts off more fumes and gasses and??? So, my OPINION, I would not even think about it, sounds way too dangerous to me.

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John A.

12-28-2004 05:16:56




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to Mitchissippi, 12-27-2004 21:22:27  
Mitchippi, I will wade off into this one.....
Warm your room up, shut off all open flame. Go paint as you would do. NOW.. Open an outside door!, Open a outside window at the other end of the room, set a box fan in one or the other end to get the best draw through the room. Wait 30 minutes, chech ,do you smell paint, if so go 30 minutes more. By then it should be allright to start the heater up again. If you still smell paint after one hour keep checking every 30 minutes or so till you don't smell paint. This isn't all that complicated once you think about it.
If all else fails or you are not comfortable with the 30 min deal. Set the door/window and fan and leave it for 24 hours . It will be ok by then.
Have fun with your projects.
Later,
John A.

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Dannie

12-28-2004 04:32:20




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to Mitchissippi, 12-27-2004 21:22:27  
Check with your insurance agent better safe than sorry.



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paul

12-27-2004 21:33:00




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to Mitchissippi, 12-27-2004 21:22:27  
Your insurance agent is gonna love you - you pay the premiums, but they won't ever have to pay out to you. :)

Sorry to be a smarty alick, but I don't know much about paint fumes so can't really address the safety. I think I do raise one issue for you tho - might as well make your coverage small..... .

--->Paul



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Mitchissippi

12-27-2004 21:40:09




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to paul, 12-27-2004 21:33:00  
I ain't even considered the insurance side of the equation.

You reckon the "Don't ask - don't tell" line of thinking would be the way to go, or should I use the "Forgiveness is easier than permission" line of thought?

Mitch



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CNKS

12-28-2004 14:06:43




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to Mitchissippi, 12-27-2004 21:40:09  
One thing that has not been brought up concerning insurance. Insurance companines are afraid of lawsuits (rightfully so). If your neighbor or anyone else walks by and your building blows up and kills or injures someone, the neighbor (if he's still alive) or a family member is probably going to sue. The replacement of your building is small potatoes compared to a lawsuit. If I was injured because of someone's negligence, and was not satisfied with the insurance payment, I would probably sue too.

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paul

12-27-2004 22:27:02




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to Mitchissippi, 12-27-2004 21:40:09  
I was assuming your carport/ room is attached to the house. On re-reading, I'm not so sure.

My concern is, if your house burns down for any reason, you may not get paid off.

If I'm assuming too much, sorry - just idle thoughts on a sleepless night. ) If it's a free-standing structure, then perhaps the insurance angle is not so much of a deal.

--->Paul



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LUCASS

12-28-2004 05:26:05




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to paul, 12-27-2004 22:27:02  

YOU NEED TO KEEP OIL BASED PAINTS AND THINNERS AWAY FROM OPEN FLAME...LUCAS



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dr.sportster

12-28-2004 06:06:43




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to LUCASS, 12-28-2004 05:26:05  
Forget your insurance.I can tell you right now your not covered for homemade residential spraybooth.You will stink out the whole house.Be careful some new paints are cyanide based and real bad to breath,often required to use an outside air source.Read the MSDS INFO on the paint used.Is this window fan explosion proof?
Spray booth switches and lighting are explosion proof.Hot water heater pilot light?Ive done it indoors.Wife was NOT happy about the smell.

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CNKS

12-28-2004 13:36:33




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to dr.sportster, 12-28-2004 06:06:43  
Paints are not cyanide based. The term you want is "isocyanates". Iso's are found in the hardener, not in the paint -- immaterial if hardend paints are used. Iso's do require a supplied air system. I agree with the explosion-proof fans.



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dr.sportster

12-28-2004 14:59:38




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to CNKS, 12-28-2004 13:36:33  
Isocyanates are created with cyanide and hydrocarbons.Calling them cyanide based is not incorrect.I was refering to auto paints.A female can smell paint fumes weeks after a male cant smell a trace.



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CNKS

12-28-2004 17:50:16




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to dr.sportster, 12-28-2004 14:59:38  
OK Dr. Sportster, you are correct. I just never saw it stated that way before, obviously I'm no chemist. Here is a link that more or less explains it, for those who are interested.



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jmh

12-28-2004 17:23:43




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to dr.sportster, 12-28-2004 14:59:38  
No one has brought this up, but could a paint booth be heated with lights or heat lamps? Would this be safe with the right type of fixtures? Just a thought. Take care..



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CNKS

12-28-2004 18:00:18




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 Re: Saftey Question in reply to jmh, 12-28-2004 17:23:43  
They would have to be explosion proof, which would probably cost an arm and a leg. All it takes is a spark with the right concentration of fumes. Heat lamps are used for drying, I don't think they are to be used when actually painting though.



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