Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Keystone compressor motor won't

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Truck

12-23-2004 17:58:02




Report to Moderator

My old Keystone 7HP compressor finally gave up the ghost this summer. I"m getting mighty tired of using the little 1HP and it"s time to fix it or ....?

2 Problems...First, It could use a set of rings, which I assume I will have to have custom made. Keystone is long out of business.I have noticed over the years it is taking longer and longer to build up a full tank. It still was quite useable during normal everyday shop operations, but if I got into using the bead cabinet it wouldn"t keep up.

The worst problem as far as I"m concerned is that the motor doesn"t make a peep when it is turned on anymore. If I manually flick the starter mechanism, it still doesn"t do anything at all. Last year I had to replace the capacitors as they had corroded and melted off the connectors on a couple. It is an old 1950"s machine with the motor one would expect on it. I think it is a GE if I remember correctly.

Should I find an old tyme motor shop to fix the motor, or should I purchase a new 7HP 1760? Rpm motor and bolt it up instead? The machine has a huge flywheel on it, and two cylinders to run, one high , one low pressure. I really hesitate to go and buy a new compressor, don"t think any out there are as durable as this one was.

Any thoughts..???

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Larry E

12-23-2004 18:57:14




Report to Moderator
 Re: Keystone compressor motor won't in reply to Truck, 12-23-2004 17:58:02  

Sounds like it is time to $hit can it you probably spent more than it worth'



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Larry E

12-23-2004 18:56:30




Report to Moderator
 Re: Keystone compressor motor won't in reply to Truck, 12-23-2004 17:58:02  

Sounds like it is time to $hit can it you probably spent more than it worth'



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
truck

12-23-2004 19:17:37




Report to Moderator
 Re: Keystone compressor motor won't in reply to Larry E, 12-23-2004 18:56:30  
Actually I spent $250 on it over two decades ago. The capacitors cost less than $100 last year to replace the entire set.

Remember we're talking 1950's 7.5 HP, not the inflated ratings of modern stuff. This thing ran an entire Chrysler dealership with six lifts and a one bay body shop back then. (120 gallon tank, too!)



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
HTR

12-23-2004 22:00:10




Report to Moderator
 Re: Keystone compressor motor won't in reply to truck, 12-23-2004 19:17:37  
I have a Keystone that sounds like the same as the one you have. Mine was originally three phase, but when I changed shops about 10 years ago the electric company wanted $2100 to hook three phase, that was about forty feet away. I went to a grain tank dealer, and he sold me a seven horse single phase, that he had taken from a grain dryer he had changed to three phase, $30.

Otto gas engine works in Elkton Md can supply the rings. They have a web site. Mine got slow a few years ago, and when I pulled the heads to check both head gaskets had part of the webbing blown. I took some Teflon rub rail from a semi trailer, and a jijsaw and cut new ones. The home made gaskets have held for years. What worries me is, if the stainless steal reed valves go bad I don't know what you could use.

It is worth a new motor If that is what you have to do. Mine came from a large trucking company. It will put 160 lbs. in the 120 gallon tank from dead empty in less than five minutes. A new compressor of equal quality would cost thousands now.

After thought,be sure your magnetic relay is not bad. It has three circuit breakers in it.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
truck

12-24-2004 11:43:41




Report to Moderator
 how to test the mag relay? in reply to HTR, 12-23-2004 22:00:10  
I've already replaced head gaskets twice, but I think next time it will be Teflon..Really kills performance when the web splits out. Still have the original hanging on the garage door from back in 94 when it blew.

How do you test the magnetic starter? I can wire a house no problem but I don't understand these things and haven't found a book to follow. I did the capacitors as they had an obvious problem and I got lucky last time. Now it has power to everything that should but no go. I tried to manually trip the starter but that didn't work.

Sure is a serious machine. I bet it would outpump any t-30 IR 7HP unit on the market today, and they seem to be the best out there.Kinda reminds me of a two cylinder JD with the size of that first stage piston!
Thanks for the website help.
Truck

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
DaveCA

12-24-2004 20:45:22




Report to Moderator
 Re: how to test the mag relay? in reply to truck, 12-24-2004 11:43:41  
Assuming you have a "motor starter":
For a stand-alone compressor, a motor starter combines a contactor (load circuit switch) with a set of thermal overload sensors on each load phase, on modern starters. The thermal O/L"s operate a contact which is part of the series of control devices for the coil which operates the load circuit contactor (in the starter) to thet motor. The control circuit includes the contactor actuator coil, the O/L"s, a pressure switch and perhaps an on/off switch or on/off switch pair for your compressor..
If you are mechanically closing the load side contacts, there is an open somwhere in the load circuit, if the motor is good and it doesn"t run.
Can you hear the contactor closing?
Is test V at the line side of starter correct?
Is test V at load side of starter the same?
Are the O/L"s tripped?
Does the control circuit coil in the starter have power to operate it at it"s terminals?
If the control side operates the contactor, then...
Check for V drop in power circuit.. The voltage should read the same (on all phases) at the line and load side of the starter with the contacts closed?

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy